Uberoo

I am in the process of changing a few things on my on my EA81 wheeler.It used to be a wagon, now it is a hatch with EJ22,nissan transfer case,8" of lift and 31 10.50 15 mud tires.Thats the goal anyway.Right now it doesn't have the front suspension or the engine and transmission in yet.So the front end is up on jack stands.. anyway, one of the things I learned from my tcased wagon was that the Tcase was WAY too far back and WAY too low.Despite the fact my car now had better tires and the gearing to turn them I was getting stuck in holes that before I could just drive through.The transfercase was constantly getting hung up and was plowing dirt.Before my transfercase was right around 12" off the ground.Now after some extensive mods to floor pan I can get it to sit about 15" off the ground.It is tilted over right now so it tucks up almost between the seats(25-30* from vertical. Now there is a problem.it is now so high that the rear driveshaft would need to pass though the rear height adjuster on the torsion bar.If I was to remove the height adjuster and the area it sits in on the tube would that in effect disable the torsion bar or is there another way that tension could be kept? Any thoughts or ideas?

what do you mean?

flex pipe is a no brainer.I tried running an exhaust without a flex pipe and it vibrated constantly. probably should have mentioned that a flex pipe will connect the y pipe from the engine and the tube.

On a lifted subaru has anyone ever ran the exhaust through the lift subframe?My EA81 offroader is lifted 8" for a divorced transfercase.The blocks that support everything is 2x8x.25,the pieces that connect all the the blocks together are 2x3x.1875.I was thinking of running my exhaust through the passenger side 3x2 square tube that connects the front section of the lift to the rear section.I was thinking run the exhaust into the pipe at the front of the tube then having an outlet port about 8" from the rear lift blocks.So the exhaust would bounce off the end of the pipe then go out the outlet to act like a baffle.the cross sectional area of 3x2 3/16 wall is 4.27 in^2 while 2 1/4 pipe is 4 in^2 and 2.5 is 4.9 in^2. I will be running a EJ22.Anybody have any problems with that other than the pipe will get hot?

looks like you need softer springs because the tires arn't really tucking that well. so what are you building this creature for?Lots of horsepower and flexy suspension= rollover in the mud.lots of horsepower and flexy suspension and high center of gravity=rollover on rocks.

I don't know how actual towing capacities are calculated but I would imagine that weight of tow vehicle,the strength of the parts,the stopping power would all play a bigger role in towing capacity than power. On the other hand you need power to get the load rolling,and brakes to get it stopped. Ive towed up to 3500lbs with a 82 Mazda B2200 diesel pickup.50 HP diesel.Not alot of top end power but from a start it would move small hills.Where it really excelled was at braking.While the truck seemed like it was overloaded power wise it stopped straight and didn't get pushed by the trailer one bit.Sure things that were a "speed bump" to my 89 Dodge diesel were a mountain because of the serious lack of top end power it would still do 75 on flat ground. so while power is nice I think brakes are a better indicator of towing capacity.So I would upgrade the brakes on your loyale and go to town.there still is nothing like hammering down the throttle and passing things up hills(and making alot of noise)with my dodge regardless of how much weight is behind it...

Does anyone happen to know what the uncompressed length of EA82 rear sedan springs are?I found a chart with diameters and spring rates but it didn't have uncompressed length of the springs.I am thinking of disabling the rear torsion bar on my EA81 and running coilovers for two reasons:One I need to run my diff directly though the center of the torsion bar to put it where I want it to sit,two the torsion bar is a bit too stiff for offroad..

I was under the impression that the only parts needed from a subaru dealer are the intake manifold gaskets and thermostats.everything else go with aftermarket.

yep.I have super duper stretchy axles on the rear of my EA81.Ea81 shaft and inner race/balls/cage then first gen legacy Cups...It takes 4 legacy axles to make 2 rear axles.I spent a day at pull and save...

what did you use for the upper and lower springs?

CLEAN. *Like New*

Rotate the flapper 180* so it opens toward the windshield.Otherwise it might get bent if you drive too fast forward.Sounds good though.

Are the rear brakes on EA81 4wd and FWD compatible with each other?I have a 4wd setup but both back brakes are destroyed.One side needs a new wheel cylinder and a few other bits and the other side needs a new um everything.I also have a fwd rear torsion assembly with good brakes,and it would be shame to scrap it without using the brakes if possible from it.so are FWD and 4wd rear brakes compatible on EA81?I know the front is different but the rear looks about the same. if they arn't the same how about 4wd EA81 and 4wd EA82 rear brakes?

its a beast but now there isnt a straight panel on it.

I mean stuff like engines,transmissions,etc.something heavy that might leak fluids etc.Not to mention with a chop top it would be alot easier to load and unload items like an engine with a shop crane... right now I have a load of greasy dirt metal that needs to go get scrapped.I don't really have any way of moving it, so its sitting outside my house.doing nothing other than making the place look like a dump...

I spend a fair bit of time hauling greasy car parts so I was looking for a 4x4 4 cylinder minitruck.Which is abit of a rarity these days.The trucks I was finding weren't even getting above 17 in town.So then I thought about a subaru legacy.I know they consistently get 20+ mpg in town.So has anybody ever converted a legacy station wagon into a pickup.IE cut the roof off after the front doors,enclose the cab and reinforce the "bed" area to get back the lost strength.So anyone done something like that?Any pics or stories about it? 4x4/awd is needed because in the summer I venture offroad to help clean up the area and then it snows in the winter...

its alot less sketch than welding blocks to the leaf spring mounts like some people do to lift there truck...

I think the CVT and a diesel would be amazing offroad.assuming the CVT had a "low" mode...

What about using some rear coilovers from an EA82?Sedan rear coilover would probally work great for the front.Maybe modify them if needed to get enough flex out of them like the way bigo1966 did?

I have an 80 hatch that I will be converting into my offroader.My current offroader is an 84 wagon.Anyway the wagon has the blade style fuses, and the hatch has the glass tube fuses.Would it be worth the effort of replacing the fusepanel from 80 and replacing it with the one from the 84?

when I did mine I payed close attention to the taper I was putting in to closely match the taper on the tie rod.I didn't just take a large drill bit and run it through.

why not? people have made 4.44 DR ej transmissions,I have climbed up hills or made it though mud holes that people said was impossible in a car.Impossible just means it hasn't been done yet.

eh why not. heres another plow car. http://www.guzer.com/pictures/redneck_snow_plow.php

I did this on a vehicle that had a 2" suspension lift.Before as the suspension moved at all the steering wheel would go everywhere off road.Now the only time it really moves off road would be when I hit a large rock hard enough to pull a wheel in one direction. flipping the tie rod end is only for suspension lifted vehicles. I dunno if it really bothers you experiment on a spare set of spindles.I don't really have any problems offroad or on road.The only problems I have on the road come from my horrible alignment.take something offroad and the alignment will get knocked out of adjustment.that and my tie rods themselves are bent... HOWEVER numbchux is correct as far has the tie rods raising the roll center of the car and increasing bump steer IN THEORY.in practice when the suspension is lifted the tie rod is at such an extreme angle already that the tie rod binds up pulling the wheels in.tie rod flipped only helps for offroad long suspension travel setups. so like I said,try it on a spare set of spindles on a suspension lifted car and see how you like it.

I used thin external lock washers because they would be pressed into the beveled hole by the nut.in the pic you can see a bit of a lock washer above the nut.