Uberoo

is there a spring/strut combo that will lift a fwd legacy an inch or so?sorry for the thread hyjack.

I ended up just using some 2 1/2" 5/16 bolts and nuts with washers to hold the springs... This kinda sucks.My car is mufflerless and it sounds great, but it has this really bassy BLAHH when letting of the gas. I hollowed out the second cat to create a resonator to cancel out that sound.the hollowed cat did kill alot of the blahh sound but it also killed the boxer rumble:eek: . So I will have a pipe welded in place of the hollowed second cat to get the boxer rumble back and then install a short glasspack..damn..

I dont get it.What did you do?

I pulled my midpipe today on my 93 legacy to remove the stuffing out of the second cat. Everything was going great until both spring loaded bolts broke.Do I have to use spring loaded crap or can I just use regular bolts and nuts?If I have to use the spring loaded stuff where is the cheapest place to get them?

That might help,but it wont change the color of the left front fender,hood, and bumper.Then there is the minor problem that the hood is an aftermarket hood that has never been painted,and other stuff like that.

cool, I took the car to les scwab to investigate some knocking noises under the car.Turns out it has 4 blown struts and the front brake pads need to be replaced...Wow, for something with blown struts it doesnt let go of the road,even bombing down 35 MPH mountain roads at 70-80 MPH... Can I use 4wd struts or do they have to be FWD?Also are the brakes the same between FWD/4wd 90-94 legacies?

I have some questions regarding my new legacy L I just bought.Its FWD with a manual and has 166K showing on the clock.its a 4 door sedan. I am planing to use the car as a rally beater.So it will be on gravel and any other fun twisty road. However the car needs a skidplate. Was there a skidplate availible on other subarus that might fit, and withstand the punishment(IE bottoming out on the skidplate)? Or would I better off just making a strong skidplate,possibly with a subframe? Are there any shocks/struts from another subaru that might help abit when ralling?Maybe even lift it front and rear or something.The suspension on it is way to soft.Looking for junkyard parts here.No $1000 rally coilovers or what not. How much work would it be to make it lighter and nimbler? Right now it drives like a car much heavier that what it is.Would getting aligned to a "performance" setting help much?IE a little bit of negative camber, zero toe,etc? Would it be worth it to remove the sound deadening,but still have carpet and rear seats? Also the driver's side motorized seat belt derailed itself.How can I fix it?Can I swap in normal seatbelts from an older legacy or something?

boise is alot further than 30 miles from jerome.Was it up by wendell? yea,drag racing with a trailer is bad for your truck...

Got the timing belt set.I think. Whatever, its how its sitting. How can I tighten the crank nut all the way?Ive tried torqueing it but the motor just spins,And that with it in Reverse with the handbrake fully up and someone pressing the brakes through the floor.Sure the whole car growns trying to hold back the torque but I just cant get enough swing to torque it more than about 100 ft lbs of torque on the nut.Is there some sorta trick to locking the motor like the pin in the flywheel trick for the older subarus?Or should I try stuffing a bunch of rope down one of the sparkplug holes?

The legacy I just bought needed a water pump and a timing belt when I got it.I have it torn down,the water pumps in but I cant seem to to get the stupid timing down right.Ive spent like 6 times trying to get it just right.Everytime after I pull the pin out of the tensioner and rotate the engine over twice, the belt is off by a tooth or so.I am about to just say hell with it and run it with the timing off. Its getting really annoying taking everything apart,compressing the tensioner,putting it all back together just to pull the pin and its off.I dunno I suppose I could set the left cam one tooth more than what its supposed to be so the tensioner pulls it where its supposed to be.I dunno.What am I doing wrong? I am worried about stripping the aluminum...

so then yours was more expensive after gas...

negative.Lewiston, ID.

here are some pics.Its so small compared to my 84 toy... Not only that but it only has 160K on the clock.Also because it is a 93 it is my newest car I've owned. http://s109.photobucket.com/albums/n45/Uberoo/Subaru%20stuff/?action=view&current=DSCF0029.jpg http://s109.photobucket.com/albums/n45/Uberoo/Subaru%20stuff/?action=view&current=DSCF0029.jpg http://s109.photobucket.com/albums/n45/Uberoo/Subaru%20stuff/?action=view&current=DSCF0030.jpg http://s109.photobucket.com/albums/n45/Uberoo/Subaru%20stuff/?action=view&current=DSCF0031.jpg http://s109.photobucket.com/albums/n45/Uberoo/Subaru%20stuff/?action=view&current=DSCF0028.jpg http://s109.photobucket.com/albums/n45/Uberoo/Subaru%20stuff/?action=view&current=DSCF0032.jpg

"Come to the dark side, we have candy". I just bought a 93 legacy FWD sedan for $225.Just needs a water pump. While I am in there I may as well put a new timing belt on and check the pulleys and such. I was gonna use it as a donor car for an EJ swap into my offroad beast but a friend convinced me to use it as a daily driver, because my only other vehicle is an 89 Dodge W250 diesel getting 15 mpg. The car is a manual,and that is the ONLY reason why it is a driver rather than a donor. If it was an auto, the motor would probally be out right now.Other than that the car is pretty straight.Only other problem is the car was painted maroon from the factory,and its paint is faded so now its, purple. I feel a can of semi gloss black rustoleum and an air compressor may be in its future.That and maybe a anarchy symbol or a jollyroger painted on the roof.Then rally around in it... I wonder if my camera has batteries?

So then B48 2,B48 13 are 12V switched ,and B48 15 is 12V constant?

so why were you towing a tree?

Looked like fun. I wish my subaru was fixed...

surely someone must know what wires I need to hook up to power and ground?

Ok thank you.

Roughly how much does an EA81 engine weigh without a crank and valve train?

I found a 78 datsun B210 2 door coupe(not hatchback) for 200. it may be slow but what a better way to develop my technique.That and a friend has 3 B210s in a field without titles so I will atleast have some spares....Thinking welding the spiders,putting a cage in it, and some snow tires... Now I just have to earn the money for it..

SON OF A ***** the wire Ive been fussing with over the past couple of days is a FREAKING G FORCE SENSOR for the damn ABS.No wonder one of the wires was already cut...GRRRRR. Now that that is taken care off, what wires do I need to hook up to switched 12V and constant 12V, and what are the grounds?

What the hell is this? 2 wire sensor, or whatever.It looks like a super ground.It was mounted on the right inner fender under the AC stuff there on the 92 legacy.It is a nippon thing.The part number is 26740AA040.Says dont drop, Nippon ABS LTD, and Advance direction with an arrow pointing to the right.

saabs are FWD,I would like to convert one to RWD. I thought the volvo were really heavy?I have a 83 240 wagon that I am gonna use for a demolition derby and it weighs 4300 lbs.Are the coupes alot lighter?

The compression for the engine has 135-140 PSI for the left bank and 140-164 for the right bank.The engine has 70 PSI of oil pressure when warmed up.The engine isnt warrentied because it fails the leakdown test. It looses 25-50 PSI of pressure... I am thinking the valves are a bit carboned up