Danbob99

yea that should fit, no mods necesary at all, both cars share the same engine (ej22) <-right? but it'll fit perfectly. And by the way, the cold air intake is so expensive becuase subaru performance parts are not so common, check a civic prices, 20$!! lol.

can i fit the 195's on my same rims? (sorry, i know nothing about tires, this is only the second set i've ever had to buy, the first on this car) so in that case, would it be better to get the wider tires? more rubber on the road?

i can find you software to go along with that camera that starts it recording when it senses any motion, but the downside ist hat means you gotta run your computer all night, not a healthy thing for your pc.

i'm setting out to buy several things for my car in a day or so, need to know whats best and where to buy it... 1)brakes (any performance available any where?) 2)Tires (all 4, 185x70x13, got a 300$ budget to work with on the tires only) 3)Belts, (alternator and ac) 4) hopefully no more...i'll be broke if this goes on much longer Oh, by the way, i'm driving a 1989 subaru gl wagon, turbo

generaly, people employed at the quicke lube places arent total idiots, but you never know. a chech engine light shouldn't ever come on with just an oil change, its not a good thing. My suggestion is that you check your chiltons manual or something of the sort and find out how to show the check engine light flash codes, the book should have a few pages on that. All it will be is crossing 2 terminals in the diagnostics plug deal, (in your car i beleive its under a lil cover just above your left knee under the dash.) and that'll make the check engine light flash.... ex: - -- would be 12 If your not comfortable with this, talk to quickie lube, and a lawyer, to have them cover costs for the dealership to run diagnostics. (70$+- if you are in a position to cover that sort of a cost go for it and bring the results to quicki lube) regardless, your check engine lite shouldn't be on, for any reason surounding an oil change.

wich one is the 1800? the dark blue one, the yellow one, the white one? you got so many, i can't keep track. i gotta assume your talkin bout the dark blue one, you probably wouldn't care if the yellow one got beaten up again.

guess i'm not parking at your house any more! didn't you say that your neighbors honda got stolen a while back? i'd suggest setting up a camera to your pc, i got one you can borrow and i'll help u set it up,(its a lil one, bout half the size of your hand) but i'd be watching some of your neighbors for now.

warped rotor? any feed back in the peddal (rear) or in the wheel (front) ?

actually, we ran a propane line out the window of my buddy's corolla (carbed), goin down the street we cranked the nob, and it picked up real quick. Nothing jaw dropping, but it was alright. I'm not so sure how he had it hooked up, mabey a straight line into the throttle body? dunno, i'm going to see him on monday, i'll ask him.

umm, no it sounds kinda obvious, but how bout your cats? can you get your rpm's up in neutral?

oh come on now, with a lil pursuasion i bet you could fit 2 in there with the seats down. i used to be able to fit 2 bikes into my hyundai excel, 3 in my gl wagon, but thats layin em down. with the front tire off and saddle removed or lowered you should easily be able to make verticle clearance.

take caution, that happened on my car, and about a day later the alternator went out on it, i think running that high of voltage just eats right through your alternator, so take caution, or just replcae the alternator all to gether with a pap special... oem alternator runs about 70$, if you need to take that route.

oh, and btw, the after market for these cars is extrememly limited, if at all existant. If you come accross a jack pot of performance parts for these cars, make sure you let us know, or at least me. Dan

well, yea, your engine is an EA-82, it'll have it engraved on the block, look towrds the front of the block, slightly left of center, it'll be there. the ea-81 tag is the older wagons is in the same place, as a matter of fact, i think thats kind of a universal place for the engine name on all the scoob y engines.

Its a 3 line o2 sensor (heated)

well, i'm a wee bit cunfused as of now, the off topic forum is gone, and i've got a pretty urgent problem; and would really appreceiate the input of the brilliant minds on this board. If it really need be, you can delete this post, but i'd hope not. (mabey we could make a "non-subaru forum" for posts like this one....please.... But to my question....My dad's got a 93 geo storm gsi ('ve spent alot of time searching the net on this, no geo boards anywhere to be found) His O2 sensor is a bust. Its a heated o2 sensor, costs 190$. that is no where in our price range, so we gotta find a way around it. so my Q, is there any way to by pass it? can i use a single line non heated o2 sensor in its place? can i simply plug the hole? can i rig up some way to run without it? what can i do? 190$ doesn't work for me...i gotta find something. Thanks, please don't delete this unless its absolutly necesary, this is my last resorte, i wouldn't have even bothered to infringe upon your new found subaru only rules, yet i am in between a rock and a hard place here. Thank you for your help.

dictionary.com??

hey i realize that justy's aren't the prize posesion of many poeple, yet i would be proud to own that car over the other cars that you could have. The justy is by far not the worst car that you could have, i think it does deserve a lil bit more respect than it gets. At least you arent all driving around in a subaru 360 (set aside the fact that its a collectors car and all) and those cars have a 2 cylinder motor cycle engine, and their rollin on 10 inch rims! so be thank full for your justy's!

yea, i don't know about the justy's, but my car, and most other subarus that i have seen or worked on, the e-brake applies in the front and the back, the newer cars do not, but the older ones do. good luck gettin that to work if you can, thats going to be awesome.

On the 4EAT transmisions there is the socket that you can pop a 15 amp fuse into, wich puts it into fwd. It's a cool little thing, made for driving with a spare tire, diagnostics, and when your bein towed. I do realize that there is no real benefit to putting your car into front wheel drive, yet its kinda fun to do in the rain:D . From what i've heard there is no real danger to doing this, heard that its possible to burn up your transfer clutch, but i have no idea. My point, i want to wire up a switch so that i can put it in fwd without popping my hood, i was thinking of a switch, (2 spades in the fuse holder) and a 15 amp inline fuse. Sounds pretty simple to do, but what are my limitations in activating this? Can i turn it on driving? ideling? in gear? Car on at all? what am i facing here?

my recomendation to you is that you pick up some colored maskiing tape to mark off both ends of the hoses that you pull. There are so freaking many fuel, vacuum, lines and junk, that it's a pain to keep them straight if you've never done it before. Mark them, or remeber them well.

mmm, thats the good stuff, we poured that out of SubaruTex's car after 40 min of very hot freeway driving with blown head gaskets. It's all goin back to gether now, and all the inards looked to be just fine.

well, if you go anywhere with that old engine, check the heads carefully, the ea-82t gen 1 heads are nutorious for cracking right between the valves, and leaking water. its a very common problem, seems to come hand in hand with the head gaskets goin out. Good luck Dan

hey, i know of a really good place up by lake kachesse in the mountains, called Rachel Lake, just into snoqulamie pass, its a really fun drive on some nice gravel roades, and there is an awesome hiking trail at the end, all in all, about a 6 hour ordeal. Mabey a good idea, if any one is looking to get to gether for a lil bit more than the drive. dan

well, this happened about a month ago, i've just been to lazy to want to worry about it. And as for my "power" light, it flashes on startup every time, and is on all the time when in drive. My boss at Smart Service tells me that part of it is due to an elctrical problem. I am able to get the car into first gear every once in a while, and it'll hold up past normal shift point ocasianaly, but as soon as i lean on the gas and hit about 4,500 it drops gears, is the saftey set to really that low? i'v had it higher than that before this proble, occured. It used to go into first no matter what, and not shift till i hit that button. Thank you for your help Dan