eagleb

This was happening to my 96 obw before my headgasket went out, I thought it was dirty/sticking valves on cylinder 4, so I had the heads checked out and cleaned, and haven't had the code return since. Maybe try running some techron, clean up the combustion chambers and valves to see if that helps?

So no bites on a leaky window... how about this one, My drivers side (and passenger side to a lesser extent) from window rattles pretty loudly when not all the way up or all the way down when going over bumps or rough roads. It's not the felt pads, those are snug against the window. Anyone else have this problem? If so, where is it coming from? I can't seem to track it down very easily. Thanks for the help, if it's out there...

Evidently there's a leaky seal between my front diff and trans, trans level was a bit low and front diff had trans fluid in it. 96 obw. I get to figure out this month if I'm buying a new(used) trans.

Tried searching but didn't have much luck... When I look at the tonneau cover in the back of my 96 OBW, more often than not there is a water pool on the passenger side, directly beneath the top of the rear window (where the bottom of the trim meets the top of the window). I guess I should thank the Oregon rain for making me notice this, but it's definitely become worse over the past few months. I had the trim off, but there wasn't anything noticeable at the window seal. I would run a hose over the area, but it's damn cold outside, and there isn't easy access to a hose in my complex. So, question is, do I use a quick fix (silicone sealant? other?), or reseal the entire window (something that intimidates me)? It seems as though water is only drawn in by pressure changes (opening or closing a door), but I'm not positive. Sorry for the unknowns, if I get a chance to run a hose on the window I'll update the thread. Thanks for the help.

I swapped my 96 cloth with 99 heated leather, the only thing that didnt work was the 99 seatbelt buckle. Make sure you keep your original seatbelt and buckle combination with the new seats.

Nipper's solution makes the most sense, really the only reason people need insurance is because us americans are terrible at budgeting (just ask Mexico, somehow we owe them over $30 billion) put that monthly warranty payment aside for repairs, hope you don't need it, then take a trip when the original warranty expires.

www.crutchfield.com look up car speakers, input your car year, make, model, it will give you a list of what fits...

the broken clips were in the middle on both front sill plates. no problem. I've never set up an amp and sub, so I had to do some searching to figure out how to properly use it with my alpine head unit. Sounds great, just that little extra thump that the door speakers lack. I listen to mostly rock, but also some indie hip-hop. Eventually I'm going to make a fiberglass sub enclosure that fits behind the drivers side rear wheel well, but until then I'm going to fab up a couple of removable brackets for the amp and sub so they don't move around in the rear of the wagon. I also installed the ipod interface unit that works on Alpine decks, and routed the ipod plug into the console. Now the only wire I see is for my cell charger. the bloobaru is quite happy.

Wires have been run, and I only broke off one clip, and one clip insert. Not bad considering I didn't have a heater of any kind. However, my hands have seen better days. I love wrenching.

I guess a good question to ask would have been, Where are the clips located on the sill plates? That way I'll know where to pull. Thanks again

ha, don't tempt me.

Guess I should have done this before winter hit. That's what I get for being lazy.

How about going for a nice drive with the heat cranked? Plus a little hairdryer action? Should I start pulling on the end furthest from the kick panel, somewhere in the middle, or elsewhere? Thanks again

I don't see any visible heads, the only head is on the vertical pillar near the kick panel. ?

96 OBW... How do you remove the door sill pieces? I need to run wires for my amp/sub from the front to the rear of the wagon. Patch cables will run down the passenger side, beneath the sill pieces, power down the drivers side. I just don't want to break any clips. Thanks

But, I know I would never buy a car from this shane guy based on the description. anyone who lies about the condition of the car they're selling should never get a sale again. Morals people, morals.

They either need to expedite the diesel or bust balls on a hybrid, otherwise sales will become inversely proportional to the cost of gasoline

do a search on how to burp the coolant system, could just be trapped air in the system... Others will chime in shortly

therein lies the problem. I want one, but how much effort is a rear cupholder worth? oh well

I definitely want one...

regarding heated mirrors... for a 96 legacy outback should the wiring already be there? Would I just need to find the mirrors and a switch, then plug them in and install? Heated mirrors just seem so handy for frosty mornings

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2498&page=1&pp=10&highlight=climate+control+backlight Depending on your comfort level, changing the climate bulbs should be very easy. Hardest part is taking off the dash panels, and even that is simple. Be sure to disconnect the control cable at the floor, and not at the climate unit.

Check engine light went out on its own, checked the code and it was indeed a misfire, on cylinder 4. I had a problem with the same misfire before I had the headgaskets done at the beginning of the year, but this is the first time the CEL has come on since the HG job. Probably an isolated incident, but I'm gonna have the mechanic check it out when I take it in for an oil change (there's a slight oil drip coming from the drivers side of the tbelt cover).

Fuel was at >50%. The smoke did smell like a bit of burning oil. Probably was a bit of oil getting combusted, definitely seems like a fluke. The question is, does something need to be replaced (oil seal somewhere), or would this happen to any 11 year old boxer parked in a similar manner? The car runs great now, I'll get the code checked at lunch and update the situation.

After leaving the 96 obw AT at my parent's house for the weekend (I was using the old man's pickup to help with my residential move), I decided to bring it home. My parents driveway is very steep, and the car was parked pointing downhill. When I started the car, it began shaking, sputtering a bit, and was belching smoke from the tail pipe. CEL started blinking. I pulled out of the driveway onto flat land, and shut the thing off before I suffocated. After calming down, I went back outside, started the car, and it ran fine. Made it the 25 miles home no problem. CEL is still on, I'll have it checked tomorrow. I'm guessing it'll say P030x. Any guesses as to why this happened? Should I avoid parking on declines for extended periods of time? Hopefully it was an isolated event. I'll get the code checked asap, since I hate seeing the CEL illuminated. eag