The Beast I Drive

Ask Monstaru, he did it, just never finished it... -Bill

If it is an EA81 it should fit. -Bill

Will he be offended by base model? -Bill

Shawn if you are gonna ditch the redrilled flywheel I will buy it off you if its in decent shape. -Bill

I dont know if you have access to a donor car but if you need to have it done asap, I would remove the knuckle from the donor car and press in your new axle in that then install that on the car youre workin on, then deal with the headache you have now later. Otherwise get a bigger hammer and beat harder, just dont mess up the knuckle. You will prolly want new wheel bearings on that knuckle after this too :-\ -Bill

I want to see it in action when you finish it. Richland Aint that far from me -Bill

Did you follow all the steps in the order you were supposed to? If so, you might have damaged the axle and caused it to bind and lock up in the wheel bearings. Did you take the knuckle out of the car to remove the axle? Its easier to get it out that way. -Bill

Damn, beat me to it -Bill

Are you trying to remove the front or rear axle? Do a search, there is a really good write-up here somewhere about how to do this the right way and rather easily at that. Its pretty easy to make a simple process turn into a royal B*tch by doing one step wrong or missing one little detail. -Bill

Better check it for shaft play, if the shaft wiggles around then its bad. if not, just check all the wires and plug connectors. I know its not anywhere close to your situation, but my Turbo wagon had a similar problem where it would run great then just die for no reason. Turned out 2 of the engine control harness plugs werent completely fastened and would work loose while driving. -Bill

^ Repo Man? -Bill

You can buy amber lights that fit that socket, you just have to look around -Bill

Did you replace it with a new(rebuilt) or junkyard piece? -Bill

If the tach was bouncing around that is a 1st warning sign of distributor failure. You might need a new disty my friend :-\ -Bill

Go for it! I have heard of others that rewired the marker lights to be the turn signals, not really that hard, cut and splice some wires. Might need a custom mounting bracket to mount a fog light in the old turn signal spot though, not really a big deal though. Would look really clean thats for sure! -Bill

With a little machine work you can put Toyota wheels on a Subaru, Jerry (bratsrus1) has 4 spoke Cragars of the 4x100 pattern on his Hatchback and uses Toyota snow rims for winter. -Bill

He is running straight axles close to the chassis, the diff will hit the oil pan under flex. Just Beat it with a 10 lb sledge -Bill

All you really need to remove the engine is a buddy who aint afraid to get greasy. Each grab one side after undoing all bolts and nuts holding it to the car, jack up the tranny like Indrid said, then give 'er hell. Hell, you could toss it out yourself, ive done it, but i wouldnt recommend it... -Bill

If the throttle plate wont close something must be keeping it open. Work from there, make sure nothin is jammed in the bore or wedged in the linkage, then check for binding and see if you can get it to close. If it doesnt move at all spray it with PB blaster and it should loosen up. -Bill

I gotta get me one of those 1400 coupes, they are the hottest thing on 4 wheels -Bill

Nah, my Bronco II did the same thing... -Bill

One day my good man, you too will have space. Then you wont have to work outside in 10 degree weather anymore. -Bill

I am so glad I got my choke working, last year I had to wedge my shotgun on the gas pedal to keep it running while I ate breakfast. 3 degrees tonight, -3 or so wind chill. Whats funny is I can fire up the Beast on the coldest of days, its weberized, but my "superior" fuel injected RX will not start no matter what I do. On a normal day it will start fine, but it does not like the cold at all. And I hate driving it in the cold, as the heater core is clogged, so I get no hot air -Bill

Well over the weekend I essentially got nothing done for I was cleaning/reorganizing the shop. BUT, tonight I got a little done. First I made my steering extension. I used an EA82 power steering double U-joint piece and lengthened it between the joints, then removed the rag joint from the Hatch's manual steering rack after clocking it slightly to gain a better U-joint angle. So far it seems to work marvelously, no binding at all Next I started fabbing up the sheet metal for the interior to cover my tailights and wiring. I only got the center piece done tonight, tomorrow or Wednesday I will fab up the curved pieces for the corners, then cut and weld filler pieces for the spaces at the bottom. I would be working on the dash but my switches are still a week or so out and I need to order guages. Lots to go, more updates to come, and I should have some better quality pics of my work so far soon, Ill be borrowing my friend's camera for a day. -Bill

Wow, that thing is sweet, the only thing that could make it better would be if it were 4wd. I dig the little bumper lightguard thingies and the JDM taillights, and the sport guages. Red plaid is a little wierd on a blue car, but still cool -Bill