The Beast I Drive

Well, at least you have before and after pics for evidence, that totally blows dude, like a week after posting pics of your pristine perfect bodied Hatch some a$$hat HAS to steal it and F**k it up! I hope you kick their rump roast, I know I would. -Bill

The bolt pattern for the carb mount to the manifold is smaller on the EA81 carbs, it wont fit on a EA82 without some sort of home made adapter plate. -Bill

If you want to use the original crossmember from your donor car, Jerry (bratsrus1) makes a kit that makes installing a 5 speed D/R into an EA81 car a bolt in affair, otherwise you could just as easily modify your design to accomodate the 5 speed crossmember. -Bill

If you havent already i would suggest getting a hold of a D/R 5 speed tranny to swap in instead of the stock 4 speed D/R right now while it is easy to swap. You will wish you had later if you dont now. The 5 speed is an all around better tranny. -Bill

Wow, that sucks big time. I hope it doesnt get that way up here, I havent even gotten to do any mountain wheelin yet, just screwed around in the hills around here myself. -Bill

It would be pretty easy to set up a live rear axle on a 4" lifted rig. First, just go to the JY with a tape measure and a friend to help hold it and measure the width of the axles on some japanese rigs, and check to see if they have the right gear ratios, or if you can get the right one from an aftermarket supplier. When you find one that is the width/ratio you want, remove the rear torsion tube assembly from the wagon. then, utilizing some EA82 rear coilovers or some other units that will fit (like nice adjustable ones) set up either a Triangulated 4 link setup or a parallel 4 link with panhard bar. With a 4 inch lift there might be as little as 4 inches of diff clearance, but i think there should be a littl more than that. You should be able to re use the stock driveline if the flanges match and you set it up right, and if not, have a new one made (not too expensive). If you need more room for the diff, try fitting a Hatchback gas tank in where the stock one was, its like 11 gallons vs. 13 or 14 or so, and its shorter I belive. -Bill

Looks to me like its just the tailshaft that is cracked, which is easy to replace and easy to find the part to replace it with. -Bill

From what I read, he's already got it figured with a cable system. Which would be pretty good I think. -Bill

Eh, my dad took it to one of his friends and got it fixed for 75 bucks, the entire ground circuit from the lug where the ground cable attaches all the way to the power cord was completely fried and had to be replaced. the best part was the entire machine had to be disassembled to do it. My dad paid for it AND bought a Millermatic 35 while mine was down, so its all good now. Strangely, i have yet to even plug mine in since we got the Miller 35 -Bill

Better be careful with that Lincoln, that is almost just like the one that melted on me, but mine is a 180. Always make sure you have a REALLY good ground. On that note, get to work! -Bill

Could also use a 500ci Cadillac El Dorado drivetrain, from the FWD ones from the early '70s -Bill

No, thats Pooparu. Both he and McBrat make excelent decals, and both are great guys to deal with, and will prolly whip up anything custom you want. If one cant make something for ya, usually the other can. -Bill

Pretty sure it cant be done, if the EA trannies are anything like the EJ trans I tore down today, then no, because the pinion shaft is too close to the outside of the casing. -Bill

Well I suggest that because my RX is the same way. Runs pretty decent while its warming up, but it hesitates pretty bad when you try to accelerate after it has warmed up. Doesnt help that my CEL light doesnt work, cant pull the code. But im goin to a Carbed EJ so I just let it be and dont drive it much. Stupid sensors. -Bill

I have the parts you need. They are off a '97 Outback. PM me if interested. -Bill

Is it an automatic or a stick? If its an auto I bet he doesnt have the torque converter properly seated. I hear its pretty tricky. -Bill

Just out of curiosity, has anyone here ever built/owned/flown a Gyrocopter? I think it would be freakin awesome to have one of those! the one in 'The Road Warrior' looked to be powered by a Gen 1 Subaru motor with dual eaxhaust ports. -Bill

Since you are using Loyale strut tops the "wagon" or "Sedan" settings on the strut top dont apply. On the EA81 and EA71 strut tops the spot where the strut bolts to it is not in the center. There are markings with arrows on either side, on the short side it has "sedan" stamped in it with an arrow to the front, and on the long side it has "4x4, Hatch, Wagon" stamped with an arrow. -Bill

I think its a sensor, IIRC when the car is warming up its in closed loop mode, so whatever sensor is causing the problem must be bypassed when the car is warming up. But thats just me. -Bill

the "3 door" or coupes. The rear gate pretty much makes them a hatchback. -Bill

lol If a interior aint perfect thats fine by me, there isnt an interior any more in my hatchback project, its all gonna be Rhino lined I want a Blue Heeler to ride around with me, that way no one will mess with my stuff while Im in the store (I keep a lot of stuff in my Wagon). Im not too worried about it gettin stolen, it sticks out like a sore thumb. Oh, dont spill battery acid in the cargo area. it doesnt end well. -Bill

Well, considering I cant use 5th in high range, yeah, you'd be screwed on the mileage with a 4 speed. Eh, just another reason to do a 5 speed swap How's the interior on that thing? -Bill

I drive mine on the highway every day, 31" tires with an EA81 and 5spd D/R. Sucks on mileage though, I get about 17mpg in the summer. i know I filled up my tank at least 4 times this past week -Bill

Oh, i also realized that Coupe tail lights and Hatchback tail lights are interchangeable. Im sure that someone else has already realized and accomplished this swap, but I feel like expressing my finding. -Bill

looks like its time for a lift... Nice lookin hatch there -Bill