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The Beast I Drive

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Everything posted by The Beast I Drive

  1. No, he's running the power from the tailshaft of the D/R to the transfer case, if i read this all correctly -Bill
  2. For actual fog cutting lights, I would go with yellow, upwards of 100 watts, white light reflects off the fog and all you see it the fog itself and not whats past it -Bill
  3. I like your photoshop, it looks better than the real one, but the chrome under the grill is still hideous IMO. Also I think if you lowered the roof line about a inch (just the roof top) it would look better, and i personally vouche for the raised stance as well. -Bill
  4. I would already have bought it when I saw this last night, but i am broke and owe money. I tried to convince my mom to buy it but she wants a Brat. i told her its just like a brat but ots a coupe, but she wants a brat. -Bill
  5. Perfect, if you can, give me a call when you leave Seattle so I can make sure I will be able to meet up in Ellensburg, and we can set up a place and approximate time to meet. -Bill
  6. Hey are you guys coming back over on Sayurday night or Sunday sometime? I ask because it looks like Im gonna be in Oregon friday night/saturday and i want to be sure I can meet you in Ellensburg. If not, I guess I could try to have Robby meet up with you or something, let me know! -Bill
  7. awe, but if you go lower you will lose all your winter clearance. Or you could try fitting up some Air struts from an XT or something, low for the ladies, and up for the snowy business. -Bill
  8. Phew (whipes sweat off forehead) thats good to hear! so when you gonna lift it..... -Bill
  9. Im sure it has been mentioned before, but jeez, what are you going to do about that rust??? -Bill
  10. well I only plan on 2 kills, my favorites, for my hatch. 2 switches can be mounted right next to each other, flip 'em both at once, and dont show anyone where they are unless you need to. -Bill
  11. You can probably find the materials in your Shop's scrap pile somewhere, if not, the amount of material needed is not very much at all, would probably cost around 30 bucks for the steel, then your time to cut and drill it. Cost less if you buy it at scrap price. -Bill
  12. Have you played with the carb? I think its time for a Weber. Also check the disty timing and look for vacuum leaks. -Bill
  13. An idea I been toying with is dual ignition setups, like have the regular one in the dash then have another one like under the seat or something, so you need 2 keys to start the car. My other favorites are a starter/coil power interupt switch and a fuel pump power interupt, so if they try to hotwire it they still get no fuel -Bill
  14. One of the things I really love about living in the country, In the unlikely event that someone decides to steal my car from my house, theyd have to get through my gate somehow, and youd pretty much need a semi to get through that thing. And, If i catch them, you can bet they will be staring down the wrong end of my .45. I HATE car theives, and theives in general. Low life scum. I hope this car gets recovered in one piece with minimal damage. -Bill
  15. I thought my heater core was bad too, but after I did this, i have working heat again that and I fixed my heater fan, it had 2 mummified mice in it making it vibrate like a paint mixer :-\ All is well now though. -Bill
  16. I dont like it, It doesnt look like a Subaru. The headlights scare me, the body lines are ok at best, but the front end is killing me. I think, a lower roofline, a little tweaking with the side lines and fenders, and putting a Subaru styled front end (gotta admit, the healights look like they would bolt on to an Infinity :-\) and it would be better. Add about 3 inches of ride height and take out the rear doors and put a D/R in it and I might actually consider one... -Bill
  17. Like Hatchsub said, anything is possible -Bill
  18. I always use lockwashers when i do my lift kits. I dont know why I never though of using locktite though, that shoulda been a no-brainer -Bill
  19. That wing is RX specific. The RX Coupe is like the granddaddy of the WRX, it is Full-Time 4wd (AWD), Dual Range Hi/lo gears, 5 speed, with center diff lock and rear Limited Slip differential. Had a Turbocharged 1.8L EA82 powerplant, and a special trim package and body kit that incudes firmer, bolstered seats inside, the lower body kit and front valance, and the wing. Also came with a stiffer, "sportier" suspension package including rear anti-sway bar. Fog Lights were optional. -Bill
  20. Ya know, Ive found that if you undo the 2 motor mounts on the engine and move the motor around when changing the axle it makes it a LOT easier to get off the tranny, and then you dont have to undo the strut at all. That wagon looks great BTW, I wish I could find a black one for sale. -Bill
  21. Hey Connie, If you are interested I can send you all the blocks from my Outback part-out that lift the body from the subframes, and the bolts, for just the price of shipping. I also have the control arms for front and rear, but I dont know If I want to ship those... The struts are taken already. Let me know! Also I *might* build some 4 inch lift kits based on that outback as well, but prolly not for a while. -Bill
  22. That thing is sweet! Where you gonna mount the .50 cals? -Bill
  23. I was having the problem where the T stat would not open when it was supposed to, it would get up to almost to the red on the temp guage before it would open, then it would open and work fine. Knowing how easy it is to blow a headgasket on a boosted car, I didnt want to risk it, and I am too cheap to go 30 miles out of my way to get an OEM t stat, I plan on replacing this motor soon with a 2.5 and am trying to spend as little cash as possible, so there are more than a few semi-permanent "temporary" repairs. I just drilled those 5 holes like I said so coolant could flow at least a little no matter what. Doing that and switching the fan to constant power has made a big improvement, it doesnt overheat in the drive through anymore -Bill
  24. Actually its pretty hard to find a EA81 for sale in my area, they are all either junked, horded, or winter beaters. However occasionally a few good deals do come along. EA82s and early legacy are quite plentiful around here though, and can usually be had pretty cheap. I think the west side of the mountains has a lot more of the older subes due to the terrain. -Bill

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