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Everything posted by daeron
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Subaru Leone vs. Nissan Skyline you tube
daeron replied to dragonfire's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
were they debating the drive wheels on the SUBARU?????? as a Nissan man, I hope I am the first to reply with a FTW!!! -
How long do front axles last for you?
daeron replied to Phizinza's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Correction: You have heard good reviews about GCK axles, which are in fact sold at autozone as well as other places. IIRC, Autozone had them for dirt cheap sometime recently; but they are NOT autozone "brand" at ALL!! Autozone brand is Duralast, which is universally CRAP, no matter what the part. Sometimes cheap crap is worth it, though. The other alternative is MWE rebuilt axles. MWE is a company that rebuils Subaru Axles for Subaru People; they know that "rebuilt subaru axles suck" and they make theirs NOT suck, from what I have heard. Of course, for our Aussie and Kiwi friends, GCK and MWE may as well be MIA, the cost to ship makes it more practical to carry a spare OEM in the trunk. -
Alternative Carbies for the EA81?
daeron replied to RavenTBK's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
It is really hard, at this late date, to justify going with a carb. The reason I say this is: parts. Carbs now are far from mainstream, there are only certain applications that still use carbs, and by going with what remains is the only way you are assured in getting something that you can tune into to your specific application. The SU carb is a pretty versitile thing, but please don't ask me where you would get parts, only Holley, and certain aftermarket Harley Davidson carbs, are what I would consider "reasonable". For me this is a tough call, I grew up with carbs, I spent about 10 years re-building them professionally, but like the blacksmith, it is pretty well over. Join a Datsun forum or three.... We get parts all the time; "ZTherapy" is a company that sells performance rebuilt carbs, AND kits and videos on how to rebuild them yourself. Or just mega-squirt the thing. Mega-Squirt == Easy Button. -
so my exhaust rusted out....LOUD
daeron replied to hatchsub's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Isn't it against Federal Law to sell or buy a used catalytic converter?????? -
DONT back it off!!!! Quick way to destroy your bearings AND the bearing housing; you don't want to have to replace that entire "shoulder" do you?
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Lookie what I found in a random search.
daeron replied to Corolla Frenzy's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
All I can say is that I would far rather have to deal with suspension and steering maintenance on this car: Than on this car: how did he keep the camber from being all fershnicket???? and the wear on those tie rod ends and ball joints.... *shudder* playing around with wheel offset is a tricky thing to do, and going that extreme should ONLY be done by those who know more about chassis engineering than I do... I know enough to keep myself out of trouble, and I know that suspension geometry is one area I need ALOT of education in to match up to the rest of my automotive performance knowledge hoard... so to restate, Turbone's hatch FTW. -
300ZX logo for Zapar FTW:headbang:
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if a timing belt gets oil on it, and the oil soaks in (ie bad seal on the front of the engine) then the rubber can easily disintegrate without a seized tensioner. I say this for posterity's sake, and for the post immediately preceding this one; given the OP's "grinding" it was almost a forgone conclusion that a timing belt idler had seized, and given the CEL it was also almost a forgone conclusion that it was an erroneous CAS code indicating a driver side. However, I have been tasting my own foot too often lately, so I didn't want to say this last night, when it was still a wild guess.
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SPFI-vrs-CARB., 1.8, Is there a difference?
daeron replied to Indrid cold's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
compression is a little lower on the carby motors, but its minimal. Simple swap, AFAIK... Many have done it, few have had complaints. -
drain coolant, pull spark plugs, run compression check. If the effected cylinder is not lower on compression than the others, don't bother with the headgaskets. Cylinder vacuum will pull alot of water through a bad spot on an intake manifold gasket, just like it will with a head gasket. Chances are about 100% it is one of the two... The first thought is head gasket, because IF it was a blown manifold gasket, then the first question that comes to mind is "why no water in #2? BUT if cylinder 4 filled up with water and wouldn't compress, cylinder 2 would not have had an opportunity to fill up with water.
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to set the timing: Make sure the idle is set right, warm the engine up, turn it off, plug in the green connectors, (ignore any clicking or CEL) and shoot for the center mark on the flywheel (marked at 20* BTDC) You should be set at an inital timing of 20* BEFORE top dead center; this is the middle of the timing hash marks on the flywheel. However, something tells me that you are NOT set AT top dead center, because the air/fuel mixture would be detonating WAY before spark almost every stroke... Top right corner of the screen. USRM== Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual. I am fairly certain that somewhere in there (possibly only in miles fox's timing belt write up) there is a procedure for setting the timing; if not: http://www.ch601.org/engines.htm find Subaru EA82 parts 1 and 2.
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Alternative Carbies for the EA81?
daeron replied to RavenTBK's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Okay, I guess I get your drift there... What kind of diameter is the TB? Z-car SUs have a bore of about 40-42 mm, something on that order anyhow... maybe a tad less, but i dont THINK so. If you are really interested I can find out; carb knowledge is all abstract to me so specific numbers aren't easy to recall off the top of my head. I keep my brain chock full of fuel injection info, no space for superfluous carburetor specifics. -
Hydraulic Lifter replacement
daeron replied to yzerman19's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I am trying to remember specifics.. I know i had problems with both, because in the end despite all my methodolgy i was not 100% that each rocker and each HLA went back in the same spot it came from. I do know that at least one of each wound up on my cardboard, and I recall being surprised at how well the rockers hung on (most of them anyhow) beyond that, I will simply shut up. -
Can a 3-spd Loyale wagon really do 130mph?
daeron replied to TheLoyale's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I mean that they only put the fan in front of your car at emissions testing to keep people from saying "you should have put a fan in front of my car, it would have passed!!! It wasn't cool enough!" That is my bet anyhow. Your radiator fans do a perfectly good job keeping the engine cool when you arent moving, even if you are running the AC. The only other time I can think of where a fan would be placed in front of a non moving, high-revving vehicle, is on a dyno... and the only cars they put fans in front of at dyno sessions, are turbocharged and intercooled. If the fan werent moving, it would not yield maximum intercooling, therefore it would not yield maximum power. Once again, in any case: With your car on jackstands, your engine is NOT moving ANY WEIGHT other than the wheels; it isn't doing any work, so it will gladly rev high enough in top gear to spin the wheels to (apparently) 130 mph. You could put in a transmission that could make the wheels break the SOUND barrier, if the car was on jackstands; but that is because the engine is hardly doing any work. Horsepower is a measure of work potential. Its elementary physics. -
Hydraulic Lifter replacement
daeron replied to yzerman19's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Mine sure weren't stuck; I had more difficulty with dropping the lifters than rocker arms. My engine came apart beautifully, though; I didn't even have to blink on the intake manifold bolts. If I was wrong on what the book quotes, its because of the experience I had. I hate having to put my foot in my mouth... -
Alternative Carbies for the EA81?
daeron replied to RavenTBK's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I am glad he already responded; I was going to suggest GD's EA82 SPFI conversion for you. Regarding the side draft carb; I don't see exactly how you could do it with only one carb; TWO side draft carbs would be difficult enough to set up in my mind (since they flow horizontally and the boxer's head breathes vertically..) But maybe you know something I don't. A sidedraft carb is a REAL carb, though.. it really is vacuum powered fuel injection. The DGV is a nice machine, but the REAL weber is the DCOE sidedraft... The SU's and the hitachi knockoffs of them run great, too. (Datsuns all came with "SU" carbs; they were all manufactured by hitachi though.) -
http://images.google.com/images?q=weber+DGV&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&sa=N&tab=wi look through some pictures; I don't know if you are right. thats a cheap carb to pass up on, even if you have to rebuild it.
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+1. Also, try to find yourself a can of Sea Foam Deep Creep, and spray it on there, and let it sit for a few hours, or a day. Spray more than once. The stuff is a bit expensive but you do NOT need much; it makes PB look like Liquid Wrench. Another point; While you are using this massive leverage to try to break these bolts loose, leave one hand on top of the bolt/socket/ratchet to make sure the socket stays flat on the bolt head. If you don't, it CAN slip off rather easily. Overzealous and impatient use of a cheater bar has rounded many a bolt and nut.....
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Ticking.....uh oh...???
daeron replied to SmashedGlass's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Lucas bad!!!!! I used to use it alot, but no, no!! Using a product like Lucas Oil Stabilizer can CAUSE HLA tick! if they are ticking badly it means one thing; they arent getting enough oil pressure. There can be several reasons for this: Poor pressure output from the oil pump; worn HLAs no longer sealing properly (theres a spring and a check ball); something sticking in that check ball and causing a bad seal; air bubbles in the oil stream (as a result of bad seals or cam case O rings). The third one is the easiest to "check" for. You can either add about a quart of ATF to your oil, or a half cup of Seafoam, and run for about 500 miles then change oil and filter. That should make it better, at least. If not, then you are looking at one of the harder problems to deal with, but none of them are that difficult. TOD is one of the more common issues discussed here; a search will yield TONS of discussions on this subject. -
Autolite??? Garbage!!! NGK BPR 6ES11!!!!
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Help... 88 EA82T surges at 5K rpm
daeron replied to ausubaru92's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I was thinking TPS as well... Regarding the MAF, there is a CRC QD (quick dry) electronics cleaner that works well, there is a MAF specific product, alcohol should do fine, WD 40 I bet would work great, brake cleaner probably.. just make sure the thing is OFF and not hot (cant take long to cool off) and if you use something that doesnt evaporate quickly, blow as much off as possible before plugging it in and turning it on. -
Ahem. Re-check. $2992 asking price.. three grand. Thats a little steep. 1800 is reasonable, for all the reasons you mentioned. I can't see anyone talking them down to more than $2500, at least not until it sits around a while. That is a worm on a hook waiting for a sucker to come along. Asking that much money for that car is taking advantage of some 18-20 year old who wouldn't know better, or somebody of any age group. Could you imagine making payments (small, and only for a little while, but still) on a 20 year old car with over 100K on the clock? On a tight budget? sumfin' wottin in da shtate of denmark.....
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Hydraulic Lifter replacement
daeron replied to yzerman19's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
That took me a moment, to figure out how you did that... left the lifters in the heads.. but then I realized that you yanked the engine. When I did my head gaskets, I left the motor in the car; the lifters all came out as a part of this process (its kinda hard to avoid, the book actually warns you to put cardboard down in case you drop them) If you are really concerned, they are not all that hard to pull and check without removing the engine. A ratcheting 10mm box wrench (easily obtainable thru harbor freight tools as part of a set for like, 10-15 bucks) makes removing the valve cover bolts (especially on the driver side) MUCH easier. The book also says that for temporary storage while the engine is in pieces, the HLAs should be left sitting in at least an inch of motor oil. To "check" the HLA's, make sure they are full of oil and try to depress them. You shouldnt be able to press them down very much; BARELY detectable is OK, but much beyond that and you get into "beyond spec;" However, I have several in my engine that are minimally "beyond spec" and it seems to run fine; I don't get much (very infrequent) ticking anyhow. Really, there seems to be no sense in replacing all four just for the sake.. find which ones are weak and replace them. It isn't like replacing only one brake pad -
+1 billion
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Can a 3-spd Loyale wagon really do 130mph?
daeron replied to TheLoyale's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
THAT is my biggest problem with 99% of automobiles. *shudder* I am not 100% positive, but I'm pretty sure that the only REAL benefit from putting a huge fan in front of your car comes if its turbo'd/intercooled, and getting dyno tested... I have a hunch that the clutch fan and electric fan should be enough to cool your engine, at least for a brief test run... Its been seven years since emissions testing was eliminated here, but I cannot recall ever seeing that (at least not as a rule, they probably had fans for that purpose? but I don't remember seeing one) in Florida; this leads me to think that my hunch may be right. I can certainly see why they would put them there to eliminate people asking the question, or posing a complaint that their vehicle didnt pass emissions because it wasnt moving, but I somehow doubt its really necessary, at least not for the speed test. Another thing to mention, for the speed test there will be VERY little load on the engine, so heat produced, AND "speed achieved" will differ from what the vehicle would actually do on the road carrying its own weight. The heat will DEFINITELY be less; but you may achieve speeds far in excess of what the vehicle would actually pull itself up to.