daeron

all pushrod engines before EA82 i thought? if it is OHV not OHC then you dont have a timing belt. Check for spark, make sure the fuel pump is working and there are no broken lines.. basically, just check to make sure the carb is getting fuel. If you are getting spark, and fuel.. then something wacky is out, or you somehow blew a seal or gaket that is causing you dead compression on one cylinder??? chances are it isnt that bad though, if you didnt hear anything. You need spark, (at the right time) fuel, air and compression for the motor to run. no more, no less.

Clutches can be funny like that; it all depends on how you drive. Personally, I am not very easy on my clutch, but alot of people are. I had a friend whos dad had an old diesel benz, with 350K+ miles on the odometer, that still had the original factory clutch in it, and it still grabbed fine. He was a truck driver and diesel mechanic, so he knew how to take care of his clutch, and it showed. This guy was probably the dead last in the book for BS factor, too.. I believe virtually everything I have ever heard out of this guy's mouth, because plenty of it has been proven true. Not just some dude who told me a story once, heh.

the title thing threw me off, and hearing that it has hot heat may indicate a poor radiator. Needs a belt for the AC to work? both belts go around the AC, thats a bit fishy too. The battery dying is probably just the parking light switch on top of the steering column being left on, not uncommon.. but dont tell HIM that or hes likely to want an extra 100 bucks or so, heh. I would say, worth checking out. I kinda wanted to, but theres that little, 300 mile trip up I-95.......

the title thing threw me off, and hearing that it has hot heat may indicate a poor radiator. Needs a belt for the AC to work? both belts go around the AC, thats a bit fishy too. The battery dying is probably just the parking light switch on top of the steering column being left on, not uncommon.. but dont tell HIM that or hes likely to want an extra 100 bucks or so, heh. I would say, worth checking out. I kinda wanted to, but theres that little, 350 mile trip up I-95.......

adding an air filter is not going to make a MAF code go away, as far as i can tell. I suppose it might, but in that case it is odd that it will throw a code because you are decreasing resistance to air flow significantly upstream of it.. I would check the connection to the MAF thoroughly, if the engine gets started and you still have the code massage the wires in the plug to the maf along their length, to see if the engine changes pitch or RPM at all.

check tie rods and ball joints both; either can cause this problem. not an awfully difficult job, but you will need to have the front end aligned after changing tie rod ends.

I am a tree-hugger galore, through and through, its in my blood. but the fact of the matter is that any refrigerant thats been manufactured is going to wind up in the upper layers of our atmosphere sooner or later anyhow; not much breaks down in day to day use, it leaks out. Sure there are ways to hold it better than in our car's AC systems, where thy wont leak out.. and its ALWAYS best to get every bit of use out of this chemical thats already been made, and so its already gonna get up there anyhow... I ALWAYS strive to do so when its possible. But, if it is a major difficulty.. like I said, every molecule is gonna wind up there eventually. THAT is the true devil of the entire problem; all the CFCs will be up there, and dont deteriorate for fifty years. So, we have to stop, and wait, for decades before we see any improvement. Anyhow, my point is that I don't let it guilt trip me too much when I have to vent that stuff into the atmosphere. It isnt like pouring oil or antifreeze into the sewer, or out in a puddle behind the garage... because it is hoped that those products will never wind up there, if disposed of properly. With refrigerants, its just a matter of using it as much as possible before it goes there anyhow.

Agreed, thats my "solution" on the Z as well

i have pliers and diagonal cutters that had been left in the rain and rusted stuck.. i treated them liberally with deep creep, initially just a drop of motor oil, and repeated opening and closing. Most of these pliers still show wet areas around the box joint if you pick them up and open and shut them a few times. Even PB doesn't work to permanently repair rusted pliers, in my experience. These things have stood up for well over a year, and its more than one pair; in fact, i only have one pair of a decent brand, the others arent even good tools in the first place but they still feel like new now. I LOVE deep creep, so i never miss a chance to plug it fully.

Okay, I brain farted on the heat equation, duh. I was simply relaying common experience in another vehicular world of the same domestic origin and similar era. Also, typically manufacturers dont insert liners like this without making sure they stay in kinda solid.

Well rob my user title and call me a newbie, live and learn. They seriously didnt have a clutch lockout switch??? wow!

yesssssssssssssssss

and PB Blaster is water compared to sea foam deep creep. honest. I love(d) PB but dont bother with it anymore.. although, the price IS coming down some now..

for a radiator that you have dubbed in need of replacement, I would say taking it out is going a little too far to be worth it.. but if you feel extra motivated, your results can only be improved by taking it out. I suppose there might be a minimal risk that in removing it, you might disturb something you wouldn't have if you just cleaned it leaving it in.. but think of that as a disclaimer. I want to say "it could only be better if you took it out" but, there is always a minimal risk.. However, in your case, if you weren't going to take it out anyway, I dont know if I would bother taking it out just to clean it. Is it visibly that grimy? It should be fairly apparent that you need to do this, if it is going to help much. If the radiator looks pretty clean, but you want to clean it to see if it helps anyhow, I highly doubt its worth removing. Its your decision to make, pulling the rad is not a big deal; I like the idea of pulling it to flush and clean it, if it is a radiator you have faith in. I recommend it to people. In your case, unless you see lots of grime, I would just do it in vehicle. I feel awkward in recommending the less thorough route; for all I know this could be 95% of your "radiator problem" right here.. but its a judgment call, really.

I thought the doo-hickey on the pump was a damper, and not a regulator at all?

joost; i think it just sounds funny because of repeated vowel sounds People turbocharge Z cars with the P79 heads all the time and never have any problem. These engines actually have head studs, and good gaskets, so these guys will run upwards of 20 psi... I cannot 100% confirm that anyone has run a p79 head, turbo'd, at high boost pressure.. but these liners are normally in there solid. You arent increasing the temperature of the exhuast port that much in running high boost, you increase the temperature of intake charge; in any case, there normally isnt a great deal of metal to metal contact to transfer cylinder head heat to these liners.

Yah, right?!?? Personally, I will never forget the first day I saw a Haynes book where they actually put it on the inside back cover, and printed it in COLOR.. Until then, the page always made me think, "Gee, how useless is a black and white photo in that situation?" but i STILL CAN'T GET THEM ALL SET IN MY MIND!!!!! without the page, I only have vague notions, and (more frustratingly) utterly zero confidence in my own judgment.

In other words, "scarey bad" wow, that is bad. I figured you were probably right in your judgment, but I wanted to comment on how crazy slow the rear tires wear anyhow. 2WD FTW on the 60,000 mile used rear tire front.

as a temporary measure, you could spray concentrated degreaser (like Simple Green) onto both the radiator and the AC condenser (when totally cold) let it soak, and spray it out with a fairly high pressure garden hose. If you don't want to go to the length of removing the radiator to do this, I would recommend blasting it out from engine side towards the front.. Lots of road grime can accumulate on those coils, insulating them from the air. Blasting from inside the engine bay has the effect of rinsing a reusable AC filter from the correct side... any particle stuck on the front by definition has a hard time passing through the coil. I don't know much much it will help, but I know that the coils on my window AC unit get dirty enough to rob all efficiency (not INCREDIBLY dirty, either) after a few months; between cigarette smoke and cat hair, if I don't take the thing out and clean it it cannot beat the summertime florida heat/humidity.

10 atmospheres is 10 bars, or about 145 psi... about 300 inches of mercury? I have a head for numbers, measures, and conversions.

Pfft.... I call BS. :Flame:

Heck, I ran it for about 2,000 miles last time I added it to my oil. When I pulled my heads, (i think that the sea foam was still in the oil at the time actually) the insides of the engine were rather varnishy, but no gunk to speak of.. just carbonic deposits in the combustion chambers. Some wire brushing and a hot tank cleared THAT up, heh. And honestly, I am trying not to be a prick.. but seriously; I am waiting for someone to relate a personal bad experience with seafoam or any similar product. you can take that as evidence that they don't actually come up all that often; as was said above, by FAR the most common "problem brought to light" by sea foam is a simple oil leak, and what ssubaru doesn't have like sixty of those? :-p

No problem. That sucks, kinda.. but at least it probably won't have a negative impact; and it might even actually make it burn cleaner, who knows? However, something tells me that if exhaust liners like this were truly that effective, they would be much more common than they are

my understanding is that with a rustoleum job, you can sand out, and fill in, and polish up any knicks or scratches that come up. Have you read the original thread at the mopar forum that started this whole fad? its run around to every car forum I use now; I can easily dig up the link if you haven't. You can dilute it to spray or dilute it to roll on with high density foam rollers, but in any case the key is using multiple coats of the enamel paint, and sanding in increasingly finer degrees between coats to essentially blend six coats worth of this paint into a shell around the metal; this shell is easily filled back in with new paint in the future. Judging from what I have read (and i've "known" at least a dozen people to get stunning results across the web) this is an ideal paint job for a subaru thats bound to come home with the odd scrape of bruise. Say, once every year you go around and patch in the various knicks; sooner, if the damage warrants it. It really is a fascinating idea that I can't wait to dig into; I am gonna use the rust holes in my car as an excuse to make it my guinea pig.