daeron

1. Oil leaking. Subarus leak oil. I suggest you find some hardcore method of cleaning off your engine; either soak it in concentrated degreaser, then spray it down (preferably with hot water) scrub it, do something to clean the mess.. THEN you can see where the oil leak begins. When your whole engine is an oil slick, its impossible. 2. r12-- All you would need to do is find some R12 and the fittings to fill er up. Any mechanic that you know personally ought to still have his R12 fittings for his manifold; but all you need is the can thingy. However, It is not always as easy as that.. plus R-12 is getting EXPENSIVE. simpler to do the swapover. As for the ecology bit; I am Frank Q. Treehugger, but all the R-12 ever manufactured already exists.. so somehow, sooner or later, its pretty well gonna end up there.. may as well use it as refrigerant while we have it handy because there is nothing else we can do with it. MUCH simpler and cheaper to just convert, though.. thats why most of us have done it. They kinda wanted it that way 3. book-- http://ch601.org/engines.htm Find the Subaru EA82 links, and download them. That is two significant fragments of an 89 GL Factory Service Manual.. your new best friend. The chiltons and haynes books for these cars both suck, and I normally LOVE haynes books... 4. power-- heh, give up? seriously, some people find minimal gains by adding holes to their air box to help the filter breathe a little better.. the filter itself is the same cartridge used on a first generation 300ZX. if that air filter flows enough for a 180- horsepower 3.0 liter V6, it flows enough for the soob. However, adding some holes in the airbox to allow air in easier, SUPPOSEDLY makes a difference... albeit a dubious one. Really, there isnt much to be done. EJ swap, is simple enough for 2.2 liters giving you 135HP, if you are that motivated. Oh yes, and as was mentioned, a weber is a brand of carburetor, and while it IS a typical subaru performance upgrade... it is "typical" to the subarus that came standard with a crummy hitachi carburetor that just quite frankly couldn't venturi itself out of a pitot tube (excuse me, nerd joke) The SPFI system stock on your car is superior to the weber carburetor in every way. Just a LITTLE superior, but in so many ways it is SOO not worth it to step back unless your vehicle's FI system is majorly foobared, and you have the carb new in your hand already, AND you are the type of person who could rebuild this carb in their sleep because they have had to do it before. 5. loyale--virtually identical, as mentioned above. for all practical purposes, the exact same. might have different radio knobs or something, heh. 6. cel- The USRM link given above, OR its also outlined in the FSM i linked you to. 7. lights, etc- help using and understanding relays for adding light circuits can be found here. You might want to upgrade the alternator and charging wire; late 80s Nissan Maximas and XT6s both have 90 amp units that bolt right in.. but require slight pulley modifications to run properly. Stock alt is 60 amp. more lights require more power.. although you need to get serious about your lighting (or have seriously problematic wiring) to REALLY need the 90 amp, its a good upgrade. If you are not talking about fog/driving lights, search for "dash light" or something vague along those lines, and scan the search results quickly for mention of LEDs in instrument consoles, and other of that type lighting dealie. Aftermarket stereos... a 92 loyale should take a DIN sized stereo OK, shouldnt it?? And that should cover all of it.

Best to only run in 4wd with four matched tires; at least, four tires identical (or very close) in outside diameter. a matched set is the most pragmatic way to be certain of this.

Gee.. any guesses as to why the "cute little bugger" decided to take refuge ion the soob?? Dear St. Anthony, we pray, bring it back without delay! :-p

I wouldn't have forgotten it, if you hadn't.. but their website is linked to off of the CCR website.. if we are thinking about the same people.

Yah!! Exactly!! I hadn't thought it all the way through, yet, but you hit the nail on the head. I have bosch relays with five prongs.. i was wrong about it when I made my relay write up. The way they work, is that they have two voltage out circuit, 87 and 87a.. when the relay is activated, power goes to 87. when it is not activated, power goes to 87a.. so I use 87a to trigger a relay embedded in the standard power feed. When 87a is energized, the relay i add to the stock power window feed will be closed, completing that circuit. When I energize my five prong, "auxiliary switch" relay, terminal 87a is de energized, and the stock power window feed circuit is interrupted.

Our cars have the high beam flasher (at least mine does, where you pull the stick towards you and it flicks the high beams on to indicate passing) but only the high beam filament is activated.. there is a moment, in between positions, where both are on.. the same goes for the other direction, turning the high beams on with a forwards motion. But once either position is fully "engaged" so to speak, its one filament only.

first off, how certain are you that you re routed the vacuum lines properly? Second off, if the lines are routed properly and you are positive there is no vacuum leak, i would suspect the spark plugs.. but thats because *I* just redid my headgaskets and spent three months chasing down a similar issue which ended up being caused by my beautiful, but 35K mile old NGK's. On a related note, check the rotor retaining screw, and try checking timing on cylinder #2... make sure that your timing belts arent installed 180 out. Also, double check to make sure you didnt inadvertently swap two of the round barrel plugs located near the front, passenger side of the throttle body.. I forget specifically which two compoenents have the same plug, I think the IAC and maybe the fuel injector?? but either way, if you mix them up it wont run , or wont run right.

that was EA71, the 1.6L..

Aww, C'mon.... Thats nothing a toothbrush and some brake cleaner cant fix!!! :-p

Yuh, I know.. its for a bilge pump, and the "12VAC" power supply is an old halogen desk lamp with two intensities.. one outputs 10.0 volts and the other 10.8-11.. so I figure worst case scenario we have to run it on "low speed" and run the bilge pump at 14 volts, woo. We are building a bait tank in our back yard. sound like fun?

THREADJACK I see to have a steering fluid leak originating near the back, bottom side of the reservoir. Somewhere in that vicinity anyhow. How likely is it that these O-rings might be the culprit? how much of a job is it to change them? Just take a hose off, drain the system, unscrew, replace, re assemble, refill and maybe some sort of airbleed by turning the wheels lock to lock and then topping the reservoir off? (in case you cant tell, I have NEVER done any power steering work. simple enough, I know hydraulics well, just looking for any unforeseen hangups.) /THREADJACK

drink holders in front of your radio, a priceless option. I have them too, and it was NOT worth the extra effort it took over and above the radio alone to install them. Can't deny the cool factor tho :cool:

suggestion: use a small amount of diesel fuel or gasoline to loosen the crud before applying degreaser. Lay some cardboard down under the vehicle, too. Try to see if you can get some beer flats from a local convenience store (basically the cardboard "tub" about 2" tall that a case of four six packs comes sitting in) since they have edges, or just cut boxes real short and line them up side by side, to avoid runoff.

Dude. Honestly. I DID read that post before I made my own. I SWEAR it.. I dont know HOW I skimmed the "8 years" part, both tonight AND when you originally posted that. I'm gonna go back to my corner for a little bit

AND ANOTHER THING..... Does ANYone know of a good place online to help teach yourself how to read wiring schematics??!?? I had learned in high school, but then I went about three years without looking at one and when time came for me to actually NEED the skill, it was largely evaporated.. (I am normally more retentive than that ) I can KINDA read them... but I am vague on what several symbols mean, exactly.. No specific QUESTIONS, I just want a primer of some sort.

I appreciate the advice; I had planned from the outset to totally eliminate any current load being put on the combination switch via an additional relay (or two) Quite frankly, I have no "bench" to build it on first. Space is something of a premium at my house, and I don't get time to go up to my family's communal "shop" for this type of stuff as often as I would like.. SO chances are my experimenting will be done on the car; I think I will just try it out by wiring in an additional switch that will cut the low beams on independently of the stick.. that way, my high beams still function normally (high beam only) but I can over ride it. I won't fry anything with the setup I have in mind; I am liable to brun out bulbs though. I think thats my chief concern at this point. While I am at it (and I plan on going back and asking this question in my other electric mod thread, as well) does ANYone know of a good place online to help teach yourself how to read wiring schematics??!?? I had learned in high school, but then I went about three years without looking at one and when time came for me to actually NEED the skill, it was largely evaporated.. (I am normally more retentive than that ) I can KINDA read them... but I am vague on what several symbols mean, exactly.. No specific QUESTIONS, I just want a primer of some sort.

Am I the only one here with a bit of an ability to tell the national origin of a piece of steel just by the feel of it in his (or her) fingers?? I should specify, since it isnt quite such a broadly applicable talent as I make it sound... I worked as a veterinary technician for eight years. In that time, I developed an ability to fairly reliably guess whether an instrument were pakistani, chinese, american, or german just from the feel and appearance of the metal, and the way the "box" joint on the forceps/scissors/whatever felt like when I opened and closed them. So really, my point was merely aimed at surgical stainless, and my "talent" such as it is, is limited to that... but if I can develop that over time, I figure I may not be alone. BTW, judging from the older M-Bs, and VWs in the junkyards here.. compared to the Datsuns and Toyotas, and the fords and chevys... I think american iron rusts slowest. I am not trying to beat and proud national chest here, we just used alot more metal when we made out cars... TOO much more, if you ask me.

I would think that time spent with milkshake goo in the crankcase is different from, "my welsh plugs popped and mixed oil and coolant, i rebuilt it and it was fine..." In other words, it seems to me like these success stories all involve a fairly short turnaround time, and in the OP's case, this engine sat for some time with the bearings exposed to H2O. I am not trying to say that your bearings are trashed.. BUT if I were in your shoes, I would not exactly "rest easy" that your bearings are good based on these two experiences. UNLESS, of course, one or both of them chime in and say that their respective engines ALSO sat like this for some time. Now, I say this, and I was driving my car for about 10-15K miles with a blown head gasket. I was pumping cylinder compression into the cooling system, and getting nasty oilish contamination in my water BUT never saw any signs of water in the oil.... When I did the head job, I did it knowing that this engine may well have a death warrant already issued.. 5,000 miles since the gasket job and no problems thus far, but I figured I would relate my tale. Anyone else care to sound off on the state of bearings that had sat in that goo for a year and a half? I guess if you are gonna tear the thing down you will see for yourself; Oh, and regarding decking the heads... think about it and you will regret asking. How much do you think could be shaved off before the intake manifold failed to fit? The answer is, hardly anything. Compression is already 9.0-9.5:1, depending on exact model year, and your EMS is set up to run all the power it can without pinging. Besides, the intake and exhaust ports are the primary power bottleneck on these engines, and you just cant get past them.

I never understood why cable clutches exist... In fact, until I was about 20 or 21, I was wholly ignorant of any type of clutch other than hydraulic.. can you TELL I am a Datsun guy?

the power steering pump takes ATF not power steering fluid.....

a regular soob, with no GL-10 trip computer, is easy. The ones with the trip computers are more difficult, but crutchfield carries all of them. Others have bought the adapter for the normal GL/loyale from other places, it IS out there. Search around on the web and you should find one, if not, someone WILL probably post it up here eventually.

cool beans, I ihave several great ideas now. I may wind up re plumbing the setup entirely, and re engineer the way it is powered with the key "on" as well.... OR, since I need some diodes to make a 12volt AC power supply into a 12 volt DC power supply, I just may head down to an old job and see what he could throw me six or seven diodes for.... Cool. I understand all about how to do what I want, I was just uncertain if backfeeding voltage would really cause any problems. It sounds like the consensus is that it is NOT a good idea to even try it; which was what I had thought. I will endeavour to take photos; and I will CERTAINLY have a write up.. but I've got no idea when I am gonna get around to any of this. House is being appraised tomorrow for refinancing, and tons of other projects already on a burner somewhere.. but now the knowledge is mine, and I thank you all heartily.

I do, but my wallet isnt always in my pocket either. I live in south florida for one primary reason: I like to spend as much of my time barefoot, wearing shorts, T-shirt optional, as possible.

Thats kinda what I am looking for.. My landlord and I, after each of our recent hurricanes, have survived using his buick as a source of 12VDC and we rig up tail lights, amber turn bulbs, headlight bulbs, and radiator and PC fans everywhere... When we used the headlamps (same kind of bulb) we typically wired in each filament, so we could use either one, or both.. neither filament is actually brighter than the other. I figured if the bulb could take the heat outside the lens, it might survive inside... Looks like, if anything, its just gonna be an auxiliary switch... Sorry Phiz, I shoulda made it clear that I was talking about composite, "loyale-style" headlamps. Youre wiring schematics are of incredible assistance nevertheless.. they are pretty well vehicle-independent, universal headlight wiring diagrams. Anyhow, any experiences anyone has had along these lines would be appreciated.. IF I ever get around to this, chances are it will be a piggyback aux switch at first to try the idea, and see if the bulbs burn out quicker. It just seems so EASY.. I dont need other bulbs, I dont need driving lights, I dont need HID projector headlights.. I am more than satisfied with the light put out by my stock headlamps... when BOTH filaments are illuminated, the spread is incredible. Low beams are great as they are.. but the spread illuminated by the "high beams" is better if they are "filled out" with the low beam filament on, too. the bottom zone just goes too dark for my tastes. I do alot of late night driving to and from my two friend's houses within the confines of my own neighborhood.. and there are ALOT of unfenced animals around. I like to be able to see any possibility.

dont forget about my car. You know what my rust pictures look like, and that wasn't even an Expose, that was just what shows to everyone on the interstate! However, as I have said time and again, none of it is structural in the least. I don't name my cars, but they definitely have souls.. and when this soob finally goes away, its soul will be transplanted into the new one. Patch the Buckster up, and start imagining the day when you get to fly out to colorado on a cheapo ticket to pick up the new wagon that some forum member scoped out for you, and picked up for you... and drive it home. plane ticket, 150 if you arent lucky.. gas, 3-500, new soob, ~1000.. old soob for parts, (rear disc conversion :-p) and a frankenstein bucky?? priceless. That is my advice. Buck has several good years in him yet, and you will look great driving in him until his time comes, but the times come. Meanwhile, get out the grinder, the POR-15, and some 'glass, and make the Fibronic Subaru!