ocei77

While the store manuals, may be crap to some, they are a lot better than nothing and worth the $20 IMO. Of all the talk, no one pointed a link to OP for an online FSM! If he works on BMW's he can do a Suby. I don't have the link to the FSM and the files exceed the size limit. If no one points you to link, PM me with your e mail and I will send you the 2.2L manual. O.

#806923060 go to http://www.opposedforces.com great resource. Plus subarupartsforyou.com. O.

A thought. Most people who go full synthetic do so within 20K. Your seals are used to dino oil, synthetic is thinner. Better but still thinner. You may just have a little leaking past the seals. O.

The alternator should go on before you attach tensioner etc. The altnernator should be lined up over the hinge hole, but may need a tap or two from a soft faced hammer to get it to go over the through bolt hole. After that it should be straightforward. O.

If you can, heat it. Then spray with PB blast. Let it soak. Use 6pt socket to get the most grip. Hopefully it will not be a pita. Wish you good fortune. O.

Most of the fsm are available online. use links shown above or legacygt.com and do search for vacation pix (sic) and you can get everything you need. O.

replace entire unit. many vendors and oem for source. O.

small correction: The phase I EJ22 of early '97 is not interference. The phase I's have the Subaru logo in valve cover and the spark plugs are just above the VC. All later are O.

+1 on riding the brakes. Can't be quiet in regard to oem tho. This will be a never ending debate. There are always cases where one is better than the other. I do my own mechanicals and I use Hawk HPS pads. Better initial bite and the longevity is there. Put ATE super Blue in as fluid and SSlines for a better feel.

Trying to add pdf's for igniter etc. System tells me invalid file. pm me e mail and I'll send them that way. O.

You can tell by looking at the valve covers if you don't know build dates. The phase I have horizontal lines and Subaru in the cover. in addition the spark plugs are right above the valve covers. The phase II valve covers are smooth, no logo and the plugs go through the valve covers. Can't remember from whom I got the info to give proper credit. I have a phase I BD O.

There are so many variations that it is boggling. (at least to me) Go to NASIOC, conversions forum and search frankenmotor. O.

[ ala frankenstein O.

Where you mix and match heads and blocks from ej22 and ej25 engines mostly. O.

^^^^^+1 Is this a quote from whom you've been getting previous work done? Do a little more shopping and you may find a reliable mechanic to do the job a few hundred cheaper. O.

Don't know what exactly you are looking for, but $2500 for a 32 year old car is a little bit much to me. You can do better O.

It is an 8mm. 8x1.25 Make sure the handbrake is not on. It can also be done by placing a block of wood on rotor and hitting with a hammer around the circumference. Can get bolts from any good hardware store or an auto store. The radiator bracket bolts are the right size. Just replace when done. O.

I rebuilt my EJ 253 from an 07 2.5I legacy. Used Rockauto and AutoParts Warehouse. APW website is just a pain to use, but, they had better prices for the seals and gaskets. Only replaced T belt not pulleys etc. Car only had 85K. Still usable but didn't want to go back in just to do it. I reused the OEM water pump gasket since it was aluminum. Bearings find someone that has ACL. I let machine shop get mine. Most head bolt sets are in a group of 6. Check with source as to how many are included. Don't know if you've done a Suby engine before, but a few tips. there is a bolt that goes through crankcase behind water pump. A great place to use as a fulcrum point to lever that lower crank pulley in so that the bolt holes line up. Also make sure the oil pump is orientated correctly before putting sealant on it. Since it is driven by a flat surface on the crank. Don't forget to pull the pin from hydraulic tensioner! Have fun O.

Seems like the problem is related to your FELT washer. Get a copper one or a Suby one. Note that the washer has a raised side, which goes to oil pan(if suby). O.

Any chance you are out 180 deg on one of the heads? O.

After you've checked all the other stuff. You can think about a partially clogged cat. Had similar issue with my BL. Replaced, wires,coil pack,plugs etc. Only to find that the front o2 sensor had gone, causing a lean run condition. excess fuel eventually degraded 2nd cat to where it was clogged. You can check by just disconnecting header from exhaust pipe (only 3 14mm bolts). If engine revs freely after this you 've found your problem. I just took section out to a shop and they had to cut the pipe, gut the cat and then reweld. Wish you the best. O.

Attached is PDF for engine overhaul. Page 18 starts the t belt replace data. (oops, can't attach file. email me at ocei77@hotmail and I will forward) Go to legacygt.com and search for vacation pix and you can get the entire set. I purchaed my belt from RockAuto. A gates unit for $36. Tip: After lining up marks, put the pulleys back as directed. the lower crank sprocket last. There is a bolt that goes through the crankcase halves in the perfect place to use a screwdriver to line up the bolt hole, so you won't go crazy with slipping marks etc. Don't have too much fun. O.

Give XXtuning in East Hartford a call. Am sure they can give you info on a reliable suby mech in area. O.

It's engine noise that's hiding the slap. My BE had a case. Noticed it at @26K. Diagnosed at 35K. Not fixed still 55K (by dealer under warranty). The car will run indefintitely like that, but it is annoying and you always have that what if question in the back of your head. O.

in 2000 with the BE series, brakes went to 10.7 F and 11.3 R. Your 99 has 10.1 F and 10.5 rear. Any change in rotor size will require an upgrade to your wheels and also the caliper brackets and possibly the calipers also. check any site that sells brake pads and check the part #s for both years, if they are different, then, the calipers are probably different too. O.