ocei77

What issues did the previous owner tell you the car had? Mileage? Were head gaskets replaced? If so when? Is the lower radiator hose hot? O.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51554&page=2 There is an access cover. Its hidden under the throttle body. Use a needle nose to grab it. If you turn the crank (22mm) with a flashlight you'll see the slot in the flex housing. If you don't have a 2nd person to hold the brakes, do it this way. Make sure it is a sturdy screwdriver. One popped on me and you can't imagine the horror I felt as the broken piece fell down! Put that off til later and on turning the crank the glorious sound of falling metal greeted my ears. Went under with my magnetic pickup tool and was able to fish it out. Used a lug wrench after that. I take the radiator out, as the screwdrivers I have always hit it as I try to lever the lower sprocket into place. Do search proper "burp" procedure if you remove the radiator. for future ref. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ Have fun O.

Sounds like air in the system or a failing pump. System properly "burped" when coolant ran low? When was the pump last replaced? When a pump starts to fail, it may not go all at once. The temp will rise when engine is at a certain rpm then come down. Varies as to how long this will happen before it completely fails. O.

If you have the place to do it, by all means pull the motor. The dealer sells the HG as each, so you need 2. You don't have to replace the head bolts though. If you decide to do it in car, give yourself an extra 2 hours.The passenger side is easy, but the driver's side is a REAL PITA to get back in.Frustrating to say the least. 5 of the bolts have to be in the block when reattaching.The upper left could be inserted after catching the other threads. I used paper towels to keep the bolts from sliding all the way in, so I could manuever better. But you can use rubber bands or similar. Don't hang the gasket until after you have the head basically in place, or you'll mess it up in the twenty attempts to line everything up. To remove my egr pipe, I had to first remove the egr unit, to give me that 1/2 inch of movement I needed to use my 17mm flare. I wouldn't have done it in car, but after the first time and having to do it again ( a long story for another time) I chose to do it in car. O.

Here is link to parts etc. You can backup to home page to keep for future ref. I used a 2.2/ auto as base, tho I don't think it will make a difference. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_6/brake_system/brake_piping/ for future ref http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ have fun. O.

Specs say 21.7+/- 3.6 ft lbs. So lets say 22 O.

Opposeed forces does not list a gasket as a part of the oil pump assembly. I used the red amaerobic when I did my ej253. Goes on in a small bead and does not harden in the air. Expemsive but so much easier to use. O.

To quote "aye there's the rub". Getting it started. Changed T belt and pulleys etc while doing a HG job on my BD and wanted to check oil pump screws and change O ring. Can't get the sprocket off yet. the holes are not threaded on mine and after the first ping of a broken screw driver tip and the horror that came over me looking for cracks in the oil pump, I have given up on that idea. So, it was reassembled w/o changing. I've PB'd it and am waiting to see how the OP gets his off. Maybe that'll help my situation. O.

If burped properly and still doing this, it sounds like your water pump is on its way out. When was it last changed? O.

In an effort to put this to bed. ie 97 ej engines, I wrote to the source. SOA. asking them for production date of when they went to interference style and for any and all distinguishing features. When I get an answer I will post. O.

^Well sir your knowledge, as most of ours has a few gaps. If you will check phase 1 and phase 2 info, you will find that about 03/97 Subaru went to the interference style. Although GD and others have disagreed with ability to see by external differences such as valve cover design. When they went to phase 2, they changed the spark plug location to go through the valve covers and no longer had HLA lifters. I have a 97L and it does not have the interference design. O.

Hawk HPS or similar They have good initial bite, great resistance to fading, but they do dust a little more than stock. Upgrade your brake fluid while at it. Motul, Super blue or similar. O.

The tensioner has to be compressed in a vertical position, to make it easy to understand. I used a c clamp,and just hung it from a wire in between turns as I did other things. There is a small hole that goes through the tensioner. Find an allen key or nail that will go completely through it. Once compressed put the tool in and do not remove until after the belt is reinstalled properly. O.

Question. Don't the pistons have to be in a particular location when doing the adjust? O.

Try this link http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ Have fun O.

Use link for FSM for your model year. You will find all info you need there. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ O.

Fluid level too low? Air has gotten into system. Lastly possible rotors worn too thin. O.

For future ref on part #'s also check out http://www.opposedforces.com O.

Think you have to have at least 10 ten posts before the system will allow you to add attachments. O.

While the store manuals, may be crap to some, they are a lot better than nothing and worth the $20 IMO. Of all the talk, no one pointed a link to OP for an online FSM! If he works on BMW's he can do a Suby. I don't have the link to the FSM and the files exceed the size limit. If no one points you to link, PM me with your e mail and I will send you the 2.2L manual. O.

#806923060 go to http://www.opposedforces.com great resource. Plus subarupartsforyou.com. O.

A thought. Most people who go full synthetic do so within 20K. Your seals are used to dino oil, synthetic is thinner. Better but still thinner. You may just have a little leaking past the seals. O.

The alternator should go on before you attach tensioner etc. The altnernator should be lined up over the hinge hole, but may need a tap or two from a soft faced hammer to get it to go over the through bolt hole. After that it should be straightforward. O.

If you can, heat it. Then spray with PB blast. Let it soak. Use 6pt socket to get the most grip. Hopefully it will not be a pita. Wish you good fortune. O.

Most of the fsm are available online. use links shown above or legacygt.com and do search for vacation pix (sic) and you can get everything you need. O.