ocei77

Check here. Pinouts etc are available. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=749402 O.

Go to this link http://www.bustedfingermotorsports.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=168&sid=3a21f199211d05e86db1cee1d2824a45 look up electrical section and go from there. O.

meanwhile, change the tranny fluid. O.

22mm O.

They are called pop its by most. Can get them at an auto supply store. Best place for cup holder is someone parting out their Legacy. Check for sale here,legacygt.com and craigslist. O.

Should not need a right angle drill. Once the radiator is out, just remove grill and you have a straight shot to the crank. O.

Try http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/1999_Legacy_FSM/. 99% of legacy and Forester items are the same. Also http://opposedforces.com/parts/ O.

^ agreed. The key word is TEMPORARY. Subaru (like most) doesn't give full size spares, so it is allowed as a temporary fix. O.

Not entirely true. Subaru's AWD system and computer checks the revolutions of each wheel and adjusts accordingly, since it appears as slip. Subaru states that the circumference tolerance is 5/32 of an inch. Running larger than this will eventually damage the center differential. You can't just put a new or used tire on one wheel and ignore this. This why some when forced to replace an expensive tire,rather than buy a set they have the new one shaved to match the other 3. O.

03-06 NA Legacy and Outback and 04-06 NA Forester have EGR. The 00-03 Forester do not,according to Chilton's. O.

Keep checking Craigslist. You should be able to find someting fixable within your budget. O.

Can be done without removing engine, But, it's a real PITA. The pasenger side is fine. The driver side is the kicker. Remove the washer bottle. Disconect and tie out of the way any lines that will be in the way. The EGR line needs a 17mm wrench. Flare type would be best. Removing the valve cover would give you more room. The hard part is keeping the bolts from sliding down and preventing alignment. Finally tried paper towels, so the bolts would'nt slide but so far. Worked. Double check all your unplugged connectors. O.

Part of the problem is definition. Most of us refer to the EJ22 up to 96 as phase I, which are non interference, and the 97-99 as the phase 2. Subaru on the other hand does not have a phase# for the EJ up to 96. They call phase I the 97-99 series and the phase II the '00-01. O.

The major difference was a change in piston head design. There was also some ecu tweaking in the timing. Wasn't until 99 that they changed the piston diameter plus a few other changes. O

I have used E3 (still do) in my BL and BD. Have not had any issues because of it. But NGK is a no worry fix. The only caveat is to replace them after 30K miles. I was a little slow in doing my scheduled maintenace (got to @35K) and one of the triangular posts had completely burned up. O.

If TC is seated correctly the other possibility is one of the heads is 180 deg off and the valves are open and hitting the top of the cylinder, not allowing it to turn. O.

and when you need something more. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ O.

Indeed, wasn't clear enough. Didn't mean to suggest cleaning hoses with carb cleaner, but to just clean the passages. Do search for procedures to test EGR operation. O.

P0183- says the fuel temp is high inside the gas tank. If the tank is vented properly this should not be, so probably a shorted connector. Check all the wires and connections. EGR, clean thoroughly. Can use carb cleaner, but keep it away from the rubber diaphragm. Include hoses and metal lines in this cleaning. Clean MAF , using the carb cleaner also. Don't hold too closee to wires. Google the codes and you'll get particular info. Need to state car, engine, mileage , auto/manual etc. Here's ref to FSM for future ref. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ O.

Unfortunately I don't have a digital that will focus close enough to shoot the label, but here is routing from opposed forces. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_6/carter_ventilation_recirculation/ O.

Glad to hear it's running well. A definite learning curve. O.

I have to assume (never assume) it's an auto. If so, if you have an old style lug wrench put this into the slot of the flex plate and make sure it rests against something solid and not the sensor. You need a 1/2" breaker bar and a 2-3 foot pipe to go over it for leverage. Alternate is to have breaker bar mounted so that it will either hit the ground or the frame and hit the ignition key. You don't want it to start. If using this method, make sure the wrench will not hit cooling lines etc. Note: no lug wrench or heavy screwdriver in this method. Still having problems, pm me and I'll make arrangements to help. O.

it's a phillips head screw. O.

GT has 10.7" F and 11.3"R rotors. 16" wheels have @1/2 to 3/4" of clearance. 15" will have less. Once he buys the car, try one. I would be shocked and a few other things if 14" fit. Checking cars 101, the last Suby that offered 14" wheels had a rotor size of 10.5". O.

Here is link to FSM. Go to electrical answers should be there. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ In the 97 there is a horn relay but it is wired through the front accessory cicruit. (fuse12 20A). Check continuity on the other fuses or just swap out to make sure they are good. O.