ocei77

Keep checking Craigslist. You should be able to find someting fixable within your budget. O.

Can be done without removing engine, But, it's a real PITA. The pasenger side is fine. The driver side is the kicker. Remove the washer bottle. Disconect and tie out of the way any lines that will be in the way. The EGR line needs a 17mm wrench. Flare type would be best. Removing the valve cover would give you more room. The hard part is keeping the bolts from sliding down and preventing alignment. Finally tried paper towels, so the bolts would'nt slide but so far. Worked. Double check all your unplugged connectors. O.

Part of the problem is definition. Most of us refer to the EJ22 up to 96 as phase I, which are non interference, and the 97-99 as the phase 2. Subaru on the other hand does not have a phase# for the EJ up to 96. They call phase I the 97-99 series and the phase II the '00-01. O.

The major difference was a change in piston head design. There was also some ecu tweaking in the timing. Wasn't until 99 that they changed the piston diameter plus a few other changes. O

I have used E3 (still do) in my BL and BD. Have not had any issues because of it. But NGK is a no worry fix. The only caveat is to replace them after 30K miles. I was a little slow in doing my scheduled maintenace (got to @35K) and one of the triangular posts had completely burned up. O.

If TC is seated correctly the other possibility is one of the heads is 180 deg off and the valves are open and hitting the top of the cylinder, not allowing it to turn. O.

and when you need something more. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ O.

Indeed, wasn't clear enough. Didn't mean to suggest cleaning hoses with carb cleaner, but to just clean the passages. Do search for procedures to test EGR operation. O.

P0183- says the fuel temp is high inside the gas tank. If the tank is vented properly this should not be, so probably a shorted connector. Check all the wires and connections. EGR, clean thoroughly. Can use carb cleaner, but keep it away from the rubber diaphragm. Include hoses and metal lines in this cleaning. Clean MAF , using the carb cleaner also. Don't hold too closee to wires. Google the codes and you'll get particular info. Need to state car, engine, mileage , auto/manual etc. Here's ref to FSM for future ref. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ O.

Unfortunately I don't have a digital that will focus close enough to shoot the label, but here is routing from opposed forces. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_6/carter_ventilation_recirculation/ O.

Glad to hear it's running well. A definite learning curve. O.

I have to assume (never assume) it's an auto. If so, if you have an old style lug wrench put this into the slot of the flex plate and make sure it rests against something solid and not the sensor. You need a 1/2" breaker bar and a 2-3 foot pipe to go over it for leverage. Alternate is to have breaker bar mounted so that it will either hit the ground or the frame and hit the ignition key. You don't want it to start. If using this method, make sure the wrench will not hit cooling lines etc. Note: no lug wrench or heavy screwdriver in this method. Still having problems, pm me and I'll make arrangements to help. O.

it's a phillips head screw. O.

GT has 10.7" F and 11.3"R rotors. 16" wheels have @1/2 to 3/4" of clearance. 15" will have less. Once he buys the car, try one. I would be shocked and a few other things if 14" fit. Checking cars 101, the last Suby that offered 14" wheels had a rotor size of 10.5". O.

Here is link to FSM. Go to electrical answers should be there. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ In the 97 there is a horn relay but it is wired through the front accessory cicruit. (fuse12 20A). Check continuity on the other fuses or just swap out to make sure they are good. O.

As stated the drain hose is faster. The cover is an air flow and gravel protect item. Pop its hold it in place. If moved there is a threaded plug on the pass. side. In either case, remove radiator cap to let air in. O.

If they are Subaru 15's yes in both cases. 14's won't clear calipers. Subaru uses a high offset (52-55mm), so depending on rim size 48 up will fit, without any issues. O.

Using a scan tool will show stored codes if battery has not been disconnected for a long time. Let dealer scan while you are there to see if any codes show. Tire rotation is an issue, since the PO didn't do the regular preventative maintenance. Are the tires on vehicle of same type? Even wear? If the price is too good to pass up. Go straight from the dealer to your mechanic to do the t belt and valve adjust. Then the usuals. Coolant flush, oil change, plug change, transmission oil change, Differential oil change and a thorough check of the brake system. caveat emptor O.

Go to an Autozone or Advance auto and borrow one. You pay for tool and get full refund when you return it. IIRC that is one of their loaner tools. Forget 79 lbs, torque to 100. If you still have problems, pm when ready I can loan you mine. I am in Sullivan Cty. O.

Update 2 Checked wiring as far as I could. Continuity is there. Plugged in test connectors again. Solenoid clicks and I get voltage of 11.89 when circuit activates and 3.87 when idle, which seems high according to the info I have. (should be near 1 or less) All now leads to a possible bad driver circuit from ECM. Any other ideas? O.

Checked, couldn't get reading. Off scale. Have an old analog unit. Just went out and purchased a digital. Older solenoid units read 40 and 41 ohms. Another question, (can't remember my old electronics) if 33 ohm unit still not available. Can I put in series two 15's to get 30? Thx, O.

Update: Still fighting with this. Radio Shack didn't have a 33 ohm unit in stock, took a 47 until the right one was available. Worked for 18 miles then got code again plus 1102 Purge Solenoid Malfunction. Went to salvage yard and got another unit, the cleanest I could find. Code returned in 2 miles. Connected test plugs. I get the clicking of the solenoid. Tried an EGR solenoid also, Very close to same but ports in different locations. No Good. Tested resistance on the three Purge and the two EGR solenoids I have. All are 13 ohms. Wires are good all the way. Next is the sensor that attaches to the purge unit. Hope to just loosen the canister connections and reattach, just for the hell of it. Sprayed soapy water on all the vacuum lines. No leaks. Hope to find a 33 ohm unit on Monday. Meanwhile any and all suggestions are welcome. Thx. O.

Thanks for info, will do Radio Shack tomorrow. Meanwhile I'll look for bad wires. O.

1997 Legacy with 2.2L Auto Problem: getting code P0443: Purge control Solenoid Circuit Low Voltage Input. Have my own scanner. Tried replacing from a salvage car . Still got code. Called dealer to just order unit. $179!!!! No way. Still trying salvage route, but what I need if someone can give me the voltage from a properly operating unit. Maybe I can trick the circuit to get rid of this code and the CEL that goes with it. I have wiring diagram, but don't know the expected voltage. Thx. O.

Advance auto rents (you get the money back on return) the type with the locking pin to keep them from coming off. If I was to do this more often, I would only buy this type. I did mine by hand also, although with a 1/2 drive ratchet to make it easier. O.