ocei77

Update: Still fighting with this. Radio Shack didn't have a 33 ohm unit in stock, took a 47 until the right one was available. Worked for 18 miles then got code again plus 1102 Purge Solenoid Malfunction. Went to salvage yard and got another unit, the cleanest I could find. Code returned in 2 miles. Connected test plugs. I get the clicking of the solenoid. Tried an EGR solenoid also, Very close to same but ports in different locations. No Good. Tested resistance on the three Purge and the two EGR solenoids I have. All are 13 ohms. Wires are good all the way. Next is the sensor that attaches to the purge unit. Hope to just loosen the canister connections and reattach, just for the hell of it. Sprayed soapy water on all the vacuum lines. No leaks. Hope to find a 33 ohm unit on Monday. Meanwhile any and all suggestions are welcome. Thx. O.

Thanks for info, will do Radio Shack tomorrow. Meanwhile I'll look for bad wires. O.

1997 Legacy with 2.2L Auto Problem: getting code P0443: Purge control Solenoid Circuit Low Voltage Input. Have my own scanner. Tried replacing from a salvage car . Still got code. Called dealer to just order unit. $179!!!! No way. Still trying salvage route, but what I need if someone can give me the voltage from a properly operating unit. Maybe I can trick the circuit to get rid of this code and the CEL that goes with it. I have wiring diagram, but don't know the expected voltage. Thx. O.

Advance auto rents (you get the money back on return) the type with the locking pin to keep them from coming off. If I was to do this more often, I would only buy this type. I did mine by hand also, although with a 1/2 drive ratchet to make it easier. O.

My error, should have been clearer, the 96-99 have three in the rear versus the two in the 2000+ O.

Not a reliable way, there are EJ22's with the plugs going through the valve covers. O.

Yes, it's in memory, unless you unplugged the battery etc. O.

96-99 have 3 strut mount bolts on top. 2000+ have 2. O.

The only thing to note is how the springs sit in the top hats. The hat has a definite set in it as time has passed. When reinstalling make sure the spring position stays the same. They may have a tendency to move as you tighten. The orientation is important so that the struts will not hang up on the wheel well, since the top hat studs will only allow them to go up one way. If the lower bolts are not aligned, just jack the wheel up til it does. If doing KYB's, you can't reattach the brake lines as given. What I and most others have done is to slot the bracket that the line passes through. Just enough so that the clip will hold. Keep the old clips, sometimes the new ones won't grab properly. O.

This should help http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_47/carter_ventilation_recirculation/emission_control_pcv/ back to home page for future ref. also http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/1997_Legacy_FSM/ O.

Here is link to FSM, check to see if you did it right and save for future ref. Double check your electrical,harness and hose connections. Pray it is a simple fix. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/1999_Legacy_FSM/ http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/ O.

Heat and vise grips. O.

RockAuto is having a close out on a lot of the BD items. check their website. O.

Thank you. O.

I am in total agreement there. A direct question as you've rebuilt more EJ's than I ever will. Do you use this in a new HG job? O.

Going further, let's say I redo the head gaskets on the BE. Is it still "suggested" to add this stop leak stuff? I am just trying to wrap my head around adding a stop leak to an engine that is not leaking. O.

A question. I know that earlier EJ's had issues with the HG and until the solution of MLS gaskets was found ,"condtioner" was to be added to the coolant system I know, this"conditoner" is nothing but stop leak. My question is why are so many still advocating adding this to new rebuilds with updated gaskets? O.

I feel your pain having done that. A pain, but I just loosen the motor mount nuts, so that they are still a little attached. Jack the motor up and then attach plate. At least not as bad as the why I have this extra bolt syndrome! In my case turned out it was the lowest of the crank case bolts in rear of the engine. Yes, it leaked like a sieve when I started it. Not only did I have to pull the motor, but crack the block so that I could reseal it! After that fiasco I labeled and bagged everything O.

Can't answer your vacuum question, but since this is your first Suby engine. Do a search on procedure for "burping" the coolant system. Suby's are not a fill and forget type of system O.

P0032:Upstream oxygen sensor heater circuit, high input O.

Gary's U pull it in Binghamton, there's another similar yard near them. Call for availability. O.

do a google local prices I've seen are only for 134A. Believe R12a is illegal in US and no longer available O.

Way too much in my neck of the woods. Check craigslist for going prices in your area. Here( hudson valley, ny), price would be no more than 5K, if that. for instance http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/cto/2418630603.html and that's an 06 O.

Follow link for manual, should have procedures http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ O.

Works for me also, tho I don't do it all the time. Had an 8" screwdriver break on me once and you can't imagine the horror I felt as I heard the small piece fall in between the flex plate and flywheel. Wound up using the old style jack handle after that! Works every time, off and on. O.