
ocei77
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Everything posted by ocei77
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The only thing to note is how the springs sit in the top hats. The hat has a definite set in it as time has passed. When reinstalling make sure the spring position stays the same. They may have a tendency to move as you tighten. The orientation is important so that the struts will not hang up on the wheel well, since the top hat studs will only allow them to go up one way. If the lower bolts are not aligned, just jack the wheel up til it does. If doing KYB's, you can't reattach the brake lines as given. What I and most others have done is to slot the bracket that the line passes through. Just enough so that the clip will hold. Keep the old clips, sometimes the new ones won't grab properly. O.
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A question. I know that earlier EJ's had issues with the HG and until the solution of MLS gaskets was found ,"condtioner" was to be added to the coolant system I know, this"conditoner" is nothing but stop leak. My question is why are so many still advocating adding this to new rebuilds with updated gaskets? O.
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I feel your pain having done that. A pain, but I just loosen the motor mount nuts, so that they are still a little attached. Jack the motor up and then attach plate. At least not as bad as the why I have this extra bolt syndrome! In my case turned out it was the lowest of the crank case bolts in rear of the engine. Yes, it leaked like a sieve when I started it. Not only did I have to pull the motor, but crack the block so that I could reseal it! After that fiasco I labeled and bagged everything O.
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do a google local prices I've seen are only for 134A. Believe R12a is illegal in US and no longer available O.
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http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51554&page=2 There is an access cover. Its hidden under the throttle body. Use a needle nose to grab it. If you turn the crank (22mm) with a flashlight you'll see the slot in the flex housing. If you don't have a 2nd person to hold the brakes, do it this way. Make sure it is a sturdy screwdriver. One popped on me and you can't imagine the horror I felt as the broken piece fell down! Put that off til later and on turning the crank the glorious sound of falling metal greeted my ears. Went under with my magnetic pickup tool and was able to fish it out. Used a lug wrench after that. I take the radiator out, as the screwdrivers I have always hit it as I try to lever the lower sprocket into place. Do search proper "burp" procedure if you remove the radiator. for future ref. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ Have fun O.
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Sounds like air in the system or a failing pump. System properly "burped" when coolant ran low? When was the pump last replaced? When a pump starts to fail, it may not go all at once. The temp will rise when engine is at a certain rpm then come down. Varies as to how long this will happen before it completely fails. O.
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If you have the place to do it, by all means pull the motor. The dealer sells the HG as each, so you need 2. You don't have to replace the head bolts though. If you decide to do it in car, give yourself an extra 2 hours.The passenger side is easy, but the driver's side is a REAL PITA to get back in.Frustrating to say the least. 5 of the bolts have to be in the block when reattaching.The upper left could be inserted after catching the other threads. I used paper towels to keep the bolts from sliding all the way in, so I could manuever better. But you can use rubber bands or similar. Don't hang the gasket until after you have the head basically in place, or you'll mess it up in the twenty attempts to line everything up. To remove my egr pipe, I had to first remove the egr unit, to give me that 1/2 inch of movement I needed to use my 17mm flare. I wouldn't have done it in car, but after the first time and having to do it again ( a long story for another time) I chose to do it in car. O.