ocei77

Subarupartsforyou lists at $27. Tho no other part numbers are the same, without comparing side by side, I don't know if any other will fit. O.

Look here:http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/ need more info, as there was more than one choice for engines, tho what you need may be the same for all. also: http://www.bustedfingermotorsports.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=172 O.

Not necessarily. Try a thorough cleaning first. Remove from TB and separate plastic housing. The screws are soft and from an earlier post I took advice and replaced screws with cap head screws. 8mm for body and 4mm for housing. The wheel that opens and closes is magnetically driven and sticks from carbon buildup. Clean and make sure the wheel turns freely. Clear code and reinstall. Should resolve the issue. If not, junkyard, after verifying which you have. there are at least 3 types. They are not cheap otherwise. O.

If it goes up or down with speed,may be just the drum rubbing on the backing plate,or a shoe doing the same thing. If a shoe, you'll have to remove drum and adjust parking pawl until it stops. ( ie, so that when the brakes are released they'll retract far enough) O.

Just a flanged bolt. probably 12/14mm. Part#901000188 O.

There is a drain plug in the front right of the tank. see:http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/2000+_Legacy_FSM/ O.

My two cents. I can't comment on brands, for I've only used KYB's so far. I use Rockauto. A little more$ than some, 4 struts @300 including shipping. I comment only because their service has been nothing less than spectacular. In the last instance I bought 2 rear for an IOB on Wed morning. Std shipping was @$12. Thursday afternoon by 1pm the Fedex truck delivered! O.

Will look like this: here the access plate is already removed To help in the future: http://www.bustedfingermotorsports.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=149 and :http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/ O.

Although you have more tools than I ever will, usually the wrist pin is frozen in there and it takes a lot of work to get it out with the homemade tools. On my 2nd excursion, after removing the circlips, I used a foot long 7/8 in wood dowel as a drift and knocked it out easy as pie. Worked well on installation too. O.

Had same issue. In order to get the boot on, you'll have to remove axle anyway, as the 2 piece boots will eventually fail. If the joint is still full of grease, you should be ok. It not, might as well replace the axle. 5/16 punch inserted into a scrap of wood about 18" long,so you can knock out pin from above works well. Do search for axle removal and you'll see caveats involved. O.

Yes, right behind the rear passenger seat. in the 97 I took the seat out, only to realize that if I just tilted it forward the access panel was right there. O.

Don't know fair market for CA. I bought the same vehicle here for $800. But, previous owner had done T belt etc within 30k of sale. I didn't have to pull engine, though struts($300) and brakes had to be done. This may be more of a money pit than you need. O.

1) Clean the valve cover area and hope its comng from the cam seals. If not sounds like either a separator plate or rear main. The latter two will require an engine pull. Add some oil stop leak and it will give you more time to resolve issue. 2) tune up issues most likely. Plugs,pcv valve,etc. Need more maintenance history, especially t belt etc. Am sure this will have to be done also. 3) Probably a complete R&R for brakes needed. Check to see if pads are gripping rotors (ie :clean rotor surface). The rear drums are a PITA. New shoes (at the least). New fluid and bleed FRt,LRr,FLt and RRr. If you can do the work yourself, it's time and some money. If not, there's going to be a major influx of $ if you have to pull the engine. Am sure others will add and/correct. O.

Can't speak for anyone else, but in my case no. I rebuilt the engine. No cracked tube and oil pump screws were tight, though I know of no pressure issues until the big event. O.

EJ253 with 85K. Oil replaced religiously(dino) at 3000-3500 miles. Spun a bearing 3 weeks after an oil change. Only possible contributing factor is I went in for the ECU emissions reflash. Within three weeks my second cat was clogged. Gutted 2nd cat,new front O2and bearing went within a month afterwards. O.

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_33/engine/engine_gasket_and_seal_kit/ Doing reverse engineering, there are only 4 items that have 12 units. ie: seals for exhaust/intake valves,circlips and cylinder block washers, which I assume (never assume) go on the head bolts. O.

Put car on stands in front. Rev engine. Remove bolts that attach mid pipe to second cat. Start and rev again. If it revs freely now its the second cat. If still no, reattach and this time remove header from 1st cat and test again. This should be able to tell you if the cat is clogged. O.

fluid on ground or in engine compartment? Leak inside of drum area? That fluid has to be going somewhere. Double check. O.

Not sure if i understand entire post. If pedal goes to the floor or more than 1/2 way before grabbing there is still air in the line. Rebleed in a cross pattern. If pedal goes and holds, but very little stopping power, more than likely your calipers are sticking. Are the surfaces of the rotors where the pads touch shiny all the way around?, probably not. Remove the pins on each side (note that they are different top and bottom, and that one has an o ring on it). Clean and lube, then replace and see if this helps. Then adivse. O.

Try http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/ In future you need to give more info. Such as engine,year and for pieces like this, trim level. O.

Salvage? 05-07 are the same. 1stsubaruparts, lists for $255 plus 10% shipping. I would personally remove unit and rig something to blow warm air through it to get rid of as much accumlaled fuel as possible.or, even just leaving it out in the sun. Unless I am wrong(someone will correct me if so) its only a charcoal canister. http://opposedforces.com/parts/forester/ According to Opposed forces there are two types of canisters for the 07. Later production of Nov on is a different type O.

Question. Did you replace the unit that is on the back of the intake manifold?, and did you specify purge control when purchasing? There is a vent control which looks exactly the same for many models, but mounted on the strut tower. The impedances of these unit are different. O.

except the 14mm one for head bolts! Since he's getting it out of a junker, he can just cut the brake lines if need be O.

If an overwhelming majority said yes, would you find the time to go aftermarket then? O.

probably. If the tires are the 205/70/15, the aspect ratio is too wide and the tire wall will hit the lower legacy strut. There was a poster with this same issue a few weeks back. O.