ocei77

Is the lower radiator hose hot or barely warm when the temp starts to rise? O.

Plumping supply. Good auto supply stores, etc. O.

You don't need brackets, use the ones you have. A one man bleeder would be good.(the simple one, just a hose and valve on end) Make sure you remove the pins, clean and relube. Antiseize on the bolts. Should be good to go. O.

With my amateur knowledge, I concur! O.

a come along on a chain around a beam will give you the lift capabilities you need. O.

There are plastic hinges at the bottom. The box has to be rotated to about 90 deg to clear them to lift off. O.

Thanks O.

Am in the process of replacing a heater core in a 96 OB. Once you remove the dash, there is a cross brace that stiffens the body, plus. Where it is attached to the tranny tunnel, there are 4 "reverse torx screws". They look like a regular torx, but they have a pin in the middle requiring a special torx . I have called my local dealer and they don't know the exact size of this screw. Anyone? Also, the replacement heater cores( aftermarket) do not come with the pipes that go through the firewall. Again, the parts man at the dealer doesn't know if they separate from the body, for the dealer sells it as a complete housing unit. Do the pipes separate from the core body? And, no I don't have one in hand to check. Thanks in advance. O.

Do a search under any vendor site and I'm sure you'll see replacements O.

access is by an oval panel behind passenger rear seat. May have to lift carpet up. Tilt seat forward, not sure if can be seen right away,but it's there O.

Subarupartsforyou lists at $27. Tho no other part numbers are the same, without comparing side by side, I don't know if any other will fit. O.

Look here:http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/ need more info, as there was more than one choice for engines, tho what you need may be the same for all. also: http://www.bustedfingermotorsports.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=172 O.

Not necessarily. Try a thorough cleaning first. Remove from TB and separate plastic housing. The screws are soft and from an earlier post I took advice and replaced screws with cap head screws. 8mm for body and 4mm for housing. The wheel that opens and closes is magnetically driven and sticks from carbon buildup. Clean and make sure the wheel turns freely. Clear code and reinstall. Should resolve the issue. If not, junkyard, after verifying which you have. there are at least 3 types. They are not cheap otherwise. O.

If it goes up or down with speed,may be just the drum rubbing on the backing plate,or a shoe doing the same thing. If a shoe, you'll have to remove drum and adjust parking pawl until it stops. ( ie, so that when the brakes are released they'll retract far enough) O.

Just a flanged bolt. probably 12/14mm. Part#901000188 O.

There is a drain plug in the front right of the tank. see:http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/2000+_Legacy_FSM/ O.

My two cents. I can't comment on brands, for I've only used KYB's so far. I use Rockauto. A little more$ than some, 4 struts @300 including shipping. I comment only because their service has been nothing less than spectacular. In the last instance I bought 2 rear for an IOB on Wed morning. Std shipping was @$12. Thursday afternoon by 1pm the Fedex truck delivered! O.

Will look like this: here the access plate is already removed To help in the future: http://www.bustedfingermotorsports.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=149 and :http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/ O.

Although you have more tools than I ever will, usually the wrist pin is frozen in there and it takes a lot of work to get it out with the homemade tools. On my 2nd excursion, after removing the circlips, I used a foot long 7/8 in wood dowel as a drift and knocked it out easy as pie. Worked well on installation too. O.

Had same issue. In order to get the boot on, you'll have to remove axle anyway, as the 2 piece boots will eventually fail. If the joint is still full of grease, you should be ok. It not, might as well replace the axle. 5/16 punch inserted into a scrap of wood about 18" long,so you can knock out pin from above works well. Do search for axle removal and you'll see caveats involved. O.

Yes, right behind the rear passenger seat. in the 97 I took the seat out, only to realize that if I just tilted it forward the access panel was right there. O.

Don't know fair market for CA. I bought the same vehicle here for $800. But, previous owner had done T belt etc within 30k of sale. I didn't have to pull engine, though struts($300) and brakes had to be done. This may be more of a money pit than you need. O.

1) Clean the valve cover area and hope its comng from the cam seals. If not sounds like either a separator plate or rear main. The latter two will require an engine pull. Add some oil stop leak and it will give you more time to resolve issue. 2) tune up issues most likely. Plugs,pcv valve,etc. Need more maintenance history, especially t belt etc. Am sure this will have to be done also. 3) Probably a complete R&R for brakes needed. Check to see if pads are gripping rotors (ie :clean rotor surface). The rear drums are a PITA. New shoes (at the least). New fluid and bleed FRt,LRr,FLt and RRr. If you can do the work yourself, it's time and some money. If not, there's going to be a major influx of $ if you have to pull the engine. Am sure others will add and/correct. O.

Can't speak for anyone else, but in my case no. I rebuilt the engine. No cracked tube and oil pump screws were tight, though I know of no pressure issues until the big event. O.

EJ253 with 85K. Oil replaced religiously(dino) at 3000-3500 miles. Spun a bearing 3 weeks after an oil change. Only possible contributing factor is I went in for the ECU emissions reflash. Within three weeks my second cat was clogged. Gutted 2nd cat,new front O2and bearing went within a month afterwards. O.