ocei77

[quote name=presslab;1155218 Anyway anyone who has turned a warped rotor on a lathe (as have I) can obviously see that the rotor has actually warped' date=' and it's not just a high spot from material transfer. I'm not saying that material transfer doesn't happen too, but I'm firmly in the warped rotor camp as I've warped mine more times than I would care to admit. QUOTE] Let me wade in. The only way you can really be positive, is to get a new set of rotors and check for run out before use. Use them as stated so that deposits form, check for run out again. Turn so you are only removing deposits not real metal and compare . Because metal is removed under complaints of "warped", we don't have a baseline,to say how they were at installation. Another factor is the floating caliper design that many cars use nowadays. When I install a new set of rotors or pads, I use the bed in procedure as outlined by Baer. It's a little more involved , but I have never had an issue since using it. O.

Check the pads on the side the noise is from. Sometimes there is uneven wear and one side looks good but the other is down to the indicator. Check your rotor while you are at it. O.

Only other alternative is like my 04 BE. It was a Ca. emissions (PZEV state here). Although it was an H4 it borrowed the headers and exhaust from the H6. It had a total of 5 O2 sensors! In attached pic you can see the 2nd sensor just behind the cat, in front of tranny support crossmember. O.

Fel Pro or OEM. O.

I always carry a spare key in my wallet. Depending on car , it may not work the ignition, but it will get me in. Just a habit I've been in for a little over 30 years. It has saved me more than once. O.

Had a similar issue on a 98 Forester. In my case the dipstick was bent just enough that it would touch the solenoid, grounding it and giving me the code. Just another possibility. O.

Exedy. Also named Daikin. Great quality. A supplier for many mfgs. Their kits come with pressure plate and nose bearing. You also need a throwout bearing and the two clips that go on it. The clips are oem only AFAIK. For an 07 2.5I i paid about $200 for everything and that was three years ago. O.

Interesting... O.

Resolution. Prayerfully. Didn't have a way to test fuel pressure w/o driving 40 mins one way to a friend's, but I did have a fuel pump assembly from the 97 L I had. Installed and so far all is good. Let the car go down to 5 mph going up an incline and it pulled steadily from there. No bucking, or anything. Tomorrow will go out onto the roads here and see how it behaves. Thanks to all for every suggestion. Oddly Subaru's diagnostics had the fuel pump as the 10th and last possible cause of my issues. All's well that ends well. O.

96 Outback with 2.5 and auto, 193K. Symptoms. Car bogs under load (incline) in D or 3. Manually shifting from 2-3 works. Pressing hard on gas, car coughs and will not accelerate. When holding brake in gear, idle sometimes fluctuates and dies, but not always. Amazingly, sometimes I can go up an incline at very little throttle, at other times it dies. Purchased at 186K, T belt and HG done at 146K by previous owner. I have a 2.5 from a 98 Forester which threw a bearing for spare parts What has been done so far: I have replaced the plugs even though I did them 6k ago. They looked fine, but left the new ones in. Swapped wires,CTS, IACV,MAF,purge solenoid, and EGR. All one at atime trying to see what if any effect it had. NO codes. Checked knock sensor, doesn't seem defective in any way, but the 98 has a different connector. Ordered a new unit and while I wait figured I'd ask what y'all think. If not knock sensor, I'm leaning to a partially clogged cat or O2 sensor issues. Thanks in advance. O.

There is an alternative. See; http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/dohc-ej22e-190650.html The only thing you will NOT have to do is swap harnesses. O.

Check the tone ring on the wheel where you have the noise. Have the same issue with daughter's Forester. She took it to a "mechanic" and they broke it putting in a ball joint. Was pulsing like crazy. I just pulled the fuse, until she has it replaced. She doesn't want them to fix it, even though they acknowledge busting it. Tho they din't tell her before I found the source of the problem! O.

Junkyard. Whole hatch. Still dear but cheaper. Try car-part.com and see what they give for price. Should be cheaper locally O.

http://www.rimsntires.com/specs.jsp Will answer your questions Sidewall is actually smaller. O.

Do you have the wiring diagram for the car? If not, go to 99 section: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ Pages 10 and 103 has seat heater. O.

Check to make sure the calipers are closing. May be just sticking sliding pins. O.

Probably struts. I have the exact same vehicle. Had same issues, but I knew the struts had to be replaced. When removed, the strut came down by its own weight! Do search on replacing, for you don't have to separate the brake lines to remove or replace. O.

I'd go to a local salvage yard and just cut the pigtail. If they want more than a few $, I'd go internet. Google. or Amazon. O.

Look Here:http://opposedforces.com/parts/forester/us_s10/type_15/carter_ventilation_recirculation/emission_control_pcv/ Go back to root for entire series. O.

My search of Exedy shows two clutch types for that vehicle. Doublecheck. Go to their home page. Then find a retailer that sells what you wish. Don't have 08 but here is 10. Should not be any major differences. http://www.bustedfingermotorsports.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=122 Not knowing the mileage of vehicle, but I would suggest you tell your son to ease up on the high rpm launches. O.

Procedure will be the same as other disc brakes. You don't have to turn the piston. O.

I bought a set of pin punches (IIRC 5/16 is the szie needed). Cut a 1"square piece of wood stock (any would do) about 16" or so long., drilled a hole 2" deep and slightly smaller than the shank into it. Inserted punch and used it to knock pin out from top. If I need to do it again, I'll do something similar. O.