ocei77

Once you remove the covers, remove front circlip. Then from the opposite side use a stiff thin rod to push it out. (this is shown somewhere on youtube also). You'll be able to snake the rod past the opposing rod. To install I made a drift of 3/4' dowel. works very well. Don't put on oil pan before you get pins in, it'll allow you to stake the rod with wood shims, so they keep their orientation. Best to have crank machined, so all of the journals are the same size. They don't always come from the factory with the same size. Subaru sells crank bearings individually, but rod bearings only in a set. Since you'll be machining the rod journals to one size this will be the easy part. Make sure you read the spec page on the engine, so you'll know what sizes the crank has. There will be 5 letters on the crank with any combination of A - D. A is std., B .03, C .05 and D .25. All in mm. O.

I wouldn't go into splitting the block. Not cost effective. If the engine has not been consistently overheated, leave it. If it has and you are concerned about the integrity of the rod bearings. Replace the engine. Do a search for HG and you'll see what to replace. Off the top of my head. Use Subaru's turbo HG ending #642. ( You should not have had to redo HG after 40K!). If pulling the engine,replace rear separator plate with new style metal one. retighten screws on the back of the oil pump. New O ring for oil pump and assorted seals and gaskets. Download fsm here: https://docs.google.com/folderview?pli=1&id=0B6P6dybMMzg9T25hMEhPdjFVc1k An accurate 3/8 torque wrench ( the cam bolts are very low #'s) Good 12 pt 14mm socket Bag and label your bolts (life will be easier upon install) Take your time. Save up on your curse words, you'll have occasion to use a few! Most of all, have fun. O.

The light won't go off until it's running for constant pressure. As long as the oil leve is good, fire it up! O.

Hemostats. Work extremely well. They have small tips and they lock. Keep your magnetic pickup tool handy. There are two I know of made especially for Subys. Here's link to one. The other is $85 http://www.euroexportinc.com/subaru-valve-spring-compressor-tool Since I don't have a shop or do them regularly. I "made" a tool for my uses. I use a c clamp to compress springs with this homemade item O.

Cheaper both money and timewise to get another shortblock. O.

Have fun. If you're going to replace the crank bearings also, make sure you have them miked. The bearings may not be all the same size. Looking at the crank, it should have a group of five letters, ranging from A to D. Check the fsm engine spec page for actual ranges. A is std, B is .03, C is .05 and D is .25 under. Subaru does sell the crank bearings individually, but not rod bearings. On a rebuild I did, EJ25D phase one. I was fortunate to have started with 4 C's and a B. Miking it, I was able to get a C set all around (.05 under). $89 from my dealer. Make sure you watch the orientation of bearings 2 and 4 on install. O.

Your biggest issue will be to get proper measurements of your bearing journals, both main and rods, unless you are having them machined, in which case the shop will advise of correct size. I would check an online dealer elsewhere. I just purchased a set of mains from my local dealer, but it was for an EJ25D with 48mm journals. $89, but I was blessed to be able to use one size. When you pull your crank you will notice a group of 5 letters from A up to D. And a 2nd group of 4 letters mostly I and maybe a Z., which is rod tolerances. A is std B is .03, C is .05 and D is .25. Check the fsm engine specs section for actual tolerances. If they are not all the same (very unlikely) a set of just one size won't work. Fortunately Subaru does sell the main bearings as individuals , but not the rod bearings. I is std for rods and the Z I have been unable to get info on exactly what it is, though it is a different size, and will be loose with std bearings. ACL race are only .001 under std, so if your bearings are not all equally std, you can't use them. I did use std ACL for the rods, from Import Image Racing. $57 plus shipping O.

If you can do it yourself, then keep the car. If not, buy another. The HG's would be fixed but there is the good possibility that the bearings have been compromised if there has been a lot of overheating. May not be, but if so, you'll lose the bottom end at some point and have to buy another car or engine. Do a search for procedure to "burp" Subaru engines. Just add antifreeze to what's there. O.

No. Not with std wheels. There were (are) some 3rd party made for rally that would clear, but not Subaru steelies. You need 16's at the minimum Also Tribeca's use the 114.3 size O.

Says who? O.

......, clear-window Forester, could/would a dealer install roof rails for me on request? Why ask here, ask a dealer. O.

You have to look at the fsm. Generally the sizes are std.,.03,.05 and .25 mm from the factory. If you have the bearing surfaces ground, then you have other options. You usually have them ground and then get bearings to match. A little search for your engine type will show you the options You need to measure the surfaces with an accurate caliper. Subaru sells their bearings in a set or individually. If you look at the crank you'll have 5 letters such as BBBCB. Std is A. .03 is B etc O.

Tried this procedure. Worked great. Had an issue with keeping the glass still, 'til I thought of mirror holders. Works like a charm. Especially with a wood backing .Thought I'd offer my 2 cents O.

Offer $1200. Less if you can't replace HG yourself and TB etc at some point in the near future. Have a scanner? Check for codes if it's a running vehicle. If a dead battery, etc, you need to make sure it doesn't have any codes present that are an easy fix that will prevent you from passing inspection. Get it running first so you can check for codes. O.

When I encountered this problem (don't remember which Suby I was working on), I just left the springs out and tightened the nuts. No more leak. O.

unit may be bad, but check the small nipple on the bottom. It's easy to get clogged. Also the line that goes from the manifold to the egr unit itself. Another one that likes to clog. O.

The CA emissions 04 had 3 cats. One in each header line and a 3rd after the Y. Bank 1 is the passenger side. I would (and did) replace the front 02 sensor there. O/

Check the TCU codes - if the AT Temp light flashes 16 times on startup then you have stored TCU codes. There is a 6 pin black connector above the gas pedal and two grounding wires wrapped into the harness directly above that. Insert one grounding pin into the center pin on the black connector (blue with yellow trace typically), then follow this process: 1: Turn ignition on, apply brake, and place gear selector in 1. Turn ignition off. 2: Turn ignition on. 3: Move selector to 2. 4: Move selector to 3. 5: Move selector to D. 6: Depress accelerator pedal slightly. 7: Read morse codes flashes on the AT Temp light. 24 will indicate a bad duty-c. These are "stored" history codes from previous drive cycles. 8: Turn ignition off, then back on. 9: Move selector to 3. 10: Move selector to 2. 11: Move selector to 1. 12: Depress accelerator pedal slightly. 13: Read codes again. Codes given here are current faults active in the TCU on the current drive cycle. GD Handshake method for reading TCU codes. From post by General Disorder. first section of pulses is the tens digit second is the units.ie two pulses , pasue then 3, is 23. O.

1. replace the bent valves - it's actually really easy, the only hard part is getting the valve springs off/on, it's a real bear and no good tools available for these heads so it can be a pain. Tool is available but cost is $80 for the one shown. For occasional user it may not be worth the expense. With a little effort a homemade unit can be made. O. C

Sorry, but I prefer to do my own nut busting.

Can't use a ratchet. Breaker bar with cheater pipe. Put screwdriver into rotor to keep it from turning. I wouldn't use heat because of the bearings. O.

here is ref to FSM. Use the 97 one. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ Not sure if you have one or two bolts (14mm) on a 98. If not 2, the topmost bolt is only a sliding pin. Remove both, clean and relube when reinstalling. Need a c clamp to compress the piston back into the bore. A youtube search will have some diy's. O.

Marvel Mystery Oil O.

One white goes to ground and the other goes to pin 38 on ecu., when mated. I can't say it's gospel, but I don't think it will matter which goes where, since there are no other circuits in between or connecting, except ground. For future ref:http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ and http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/ O.

if the plug side pulled, the white wires go to the top two pins. Black to bottom. They should still be in the correct orientation. O.