ocei77

As p73 said, the axle stub is in the wrong position. If the tranny side did not move, just make sure the dimpled side is where you are inserting the pin. If you removed it from the top, insert it from the top this will maintain the hole alignment. I once did what you are doing and couldn't figure out why it didn't go back in. Time and frustration got me and I temporarily inserted a nail and bent it. Thought more at length later and rotated the stub and voila! I just took a 12 inch 1x1 piece of wood, drilled a hole an inch down a bit smaller than the punch and tapped the punch into it. Easy, firm and disposable. O.

Use a strut compressor which has the lock pins. You can do a rental from Advance Auto/ similar shop and they will refund the cost when returned. These are completely safe. I dropped a compressed unit and noting unusual happened. Knowing I was going to use them again, I purchased a pair ($60 from Advance) and have been completely satisfied with the decision. O.

when replacing the struts, you will have to cut the tab that secures the brake line in order to remove it. You will also have to notch the new strut to accept the clip (or zip tie) to attach the brake line. Unless you feel like disconnecting all the lines and have Soooooo much fun bleeding the system. O.

Also, the washer is direction specific. The larger flat side goes to the nut. If reversed, it will leak. O.

IIRC the Calif. spec belt has the 105k change interval and was cheaper than the Fed spec unit which had a 60k change interval. No other differences outside of construction material. O.

Have only encountered this code two times. A slightly bent dipstick was grounding out on the solenoid body when inserted. Replaced stick. The tach was malfunctioning and the tcu couldn't gauge engine speed. Fixed ground issue on circuit board. Others may have aid in this area. O.

Gates. I have always had good fortune with theimportexperts on ebay also. Loctite is not needed, just torque to at least 130ft lbs. O.

That is the serial number for the engine. The vin is on the flat space in your picture. You have to clean it thoroughly. It looks like the old dot matrix print. O.

If its an auto once you get new pulley and can turn the engine you will see slots in the flex plate where you can insert screwdriver. Make sure it doesn't rest against the tps. Alternatively there is a hole in the side of block where you can insert a screwdriver or something to prevent turning. See attached.(credit to JohnCEggleston) If a manual, you have to block the flywheel. O.

Any misfire codes? My daughter's 98 IOB used 2 tanks of gas to drive the 250 to visit. Pulled wires while changing plugs and 2 were barely attached at the electrodes and separated on pulling them out. Changing wires along with plugs fixed her problem. O.

Can always go to opposedforces.com. look up hatch part number then click on part and see what interchange O.

That is the model number plate. Forester VINS start with JF2S...... and is 17 characters long. Look under hood on driver side near strut tower. O.

^+1 Subarus have two level gauge units. one in each tank half. O/

If you have a flare kit, just use the appropriate one for the line. Can't tell you what the size is by the numbers. Pull and match. O.

Not sure. Check www.opposedforces.com/parts/ . Look up your vehicle, then after going to cooling system click on that part number to see what other Imprezas used the same radiator.. O.

Junkyard is your answer. Or even Craigslist for a part out. O.

ok to loop. No restrictor needed. Just make sure the clamps are tight and that the hose doses not kink. o.

Spray bottom of warm engine with degreaser. Let sit for 5 minutes then hose off. Do again, this time with a brush of some type. This will clear most of grime so you can check better for leaks. Flush the radiator system. replace T stat with an oem unit or a Stant Xactstat unit only. Then see how your coolant issues are. Read up on how to "burp" the coolant syatem properly. O.

Generally your high idle is caused by your IACV . You should clean it thoroughly. (Do search on forum). The flashing may be connected or not.. If it flashes 16 times, there is a fault stored in the tranny ecu. (do search for how to read ) O.

If an oem pump lasts more than 200k, what's wrong with oem other than the price? IIRC Aisin is a well made unit. Look at the impeller. The fan looking type is not the better unit. Better to reboot the axles if they are not clicking. Another oem unit that is better than most 3rd party. Hopefully it's the outer boot that's torn. A messy job, but very doable. O.

Do a search for Subaru DTC. There are at least 5 things they suggest you check. First is the circuitry of the Duty B solenoid.. I have had this issue when I lost my tach. in a 98GT. When the circuit there drops and I show 0 revs, the switch doesn't know what the actual engine speed is and sent that code. I pulled my harness, cleaned the contacts and since then no codes. If you can't find the list, pm me your e mail and I'll send it. The one I have is 294 pages O.

Not positive on this model, but some use a through bolt. Check on the side of box and make sure. O.

Had an 07 2.5I. Did the recall for the ecu flash and had similar issues. So much so, that SOA extended their warranty period for cats. Keep your records and if this continues, contact SOA. Hopefully they'll do the right thing. O.

+1^ to all of the above. There is a third alternative. Look inside the oil filler cap. It has a year of mfg in it. This is an item that is very seldom lost or replaced, though the possibility exists. O.

Call Cometic. They will advise you which gasket to use and supply them, with all the correct passages. O.