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ocei77

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Everything posted by ocei77

  1. Very easy. Should be a youtube video around. All you'll really need are a jack, some stands , sockets and open end wrenches O.
  2. Check your harness connections. No bent or fouled pins, or torn insulation. There are resistance values between the ecu and harness. Check under Subaru DTC codes for more info in this regard. Did you get the direct fit or the universal type? O.
  3. Yes. When a knock is detected, the ecu pulls timing. Replacements are under $20 on Ebay. Just buy one from a US based firm as it'll take 3 weeks or more otherwise. O.
  4. Our bearings are sealed. As stated run until you know something is wrong, then replace. O.
  5. I know never to put sealant on the seal. But I was responding to CCRINC statement as to never put sealant around seals. I am sure he meant on the seal itself, but the unititiated may misread that statement. Will never do in this lifetime as many as they do, but I have done enough to know what not to do. O.
  6. Doesn't the fsm say to put sealant on the pump, which includes around the oil seal before install? O.
  7. In the 07 and 08, the cat is very close to the header and in the front. I believe the 09 is the same. You can see it from the hood area. just follow the connectors, one orange(to front) and one gray. They are held in place by a pop it to a small bracket. A 22mm wrench is needed to remove. You may have to move some of the plastic underfairing to get to it. O.
  8. There was a similar recent post. A search which show a lot of options. Don't know the bore but you can easily use a 17x7 rim. A 7.5 is pushing it. You can go down to about a 48 offset with a 7". Your tire profile will be a major consideration in this regard. Without rolling fenders the widest you can go is 225/45. Go to this site (see attached) and it will let you know. O. rimsntires.txt
  9. I agree with FairTax. Sounds like a clogged cat. Had a similar issue with my 07. Ran rich for too long with a P0420. The second cat was clogged, not the first. Have your mechanic separate the exhaust between the two and see if it revs freely. If so, you'll also need to replace the first O2 sensor as it controls your AF ratio . O.
  10. Unfortunately the powers that be don't allow copy and paste functions. Nor did they wish to make a separate sticky for fsms. In the new gen faq page 2 under my name, there are links to the fsm. Lists 97 and 99, but 98 is the same body style. O.
  11. They do not rub, Use the site I mentioned. You will not have a problem with the sedan. The width of the tire is the major issue. Cannot go wider than 225/45 on a 17" rim ( which is what I have). Which is the same tire and wheel combo I used on an 07 Legacy. The strut mount location is what gives the clearance. The centerline from the hub to fender distance is the same. O.
  12. I agree with all of the above comments except one. Do buy it first. It was not the engine that was the problem, it was the head gasket design. Once the gaskets are replaced with the updated or mls type properly, the engine is very reliable. It all depends on your confidence level. Easier to replace with a 2.2, but there is always a compromise, in this case HP. It's only 20 HP, but the extra 150 or so lbs of the wagon makes a difference if you drive in a hilly environment. Then you will feel it. O.
  13. Use opposedforces. click on part number under engine electronics, then click on car type and you will see which models etc which are compatible. O.
  14. No offense, but if you don't know what/and where a hg is, you should not be attempting this. Insofar as DOHC heads on an EJ22, which would be boost friendly, go to legacygt.com and look up posts by DOHCEJ22e and you'll find complete info on this particular hybrid. Do search on frankenmotor for the other way around. O.
  15. A friend blew his 2000 2.5 SOHC. I am going to give him my 96 2.5 DOHC short block. I know to use his heads, intake manifold, sensors and tensioner bracket. Also to block the egr port if his doesn't have egr. My question is, is it ok to use the ej25 turbo gasket (642) or is another thickness required as this was the only year that the head design required premium gas. thx in advance. O.
  16. Turning the crank would make the job easier, then you can get one size bearing as they are not the same from the factory.(This adds to cost) Subaru , King or ACL for bearings, your choice. NPR for rings, keep the pistons. Engine gaskets from Fel Pro and the odd O rings from Subaru. O.
  17. Once the panel is removed. Lower the window. At some point (maybe halfway) the bolts will be accessible. Just look at it as you lower, you'll find that point. O.
  18. No you do not. Just need to disconnect the bypass pipe and radiator hoses and the bolts. Wiggle or pry to remove. Only use a metal gasket on install. I use a little sealant to hold the gasket in place as I work it back on. O.
  19. If you have not removed the t belt, lock the flexplate if auto or block flywheel if mt. Should be a lot easier then. If t belt already removed, take off valve covers and hold the flat part of cam with an open end.. O.
  20. In the meanwhile use the Subaru "conditioner" to help slow the external hg leak. Make sure the system is full. Once it gets hot and pushes into the overflow, you have to do everything to make sure the block side has coolant and minimal air. Stant makes an Xacstat #(not positive of number 474.....) that is the same as Subaru's unit. O.
  21. Don't know of this "fix". Generally (tho not always) this code is related to the 2nd O2 sensor. The fix for this is to replace that sensor. Many have resolved this issue with a spark plug spacer .if there is room to mount. Do search for P0420. O.
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