ocei77

First you don't need to remove the strut bolts to do an axle. Turn axle so the bevel side faces you. Punch the pin out. Don't turn the wheel. 3/16 punch. 32mm for the axle nut. Good breaker bar (forget the harbor freight one for this), plus a cheater pipe.(that axle nut is REALLY on there) Remove the sway bar bolt. Remove cotter pin from lower ball joint and unscrew the castle nut (19mm). Pry the control arm down( you're not trying to remove the ball joint, so don't remove the bolt that secures it). Now you can swing the hub assembly out. Just pull and it will come out of the tranny and tap the axle side out. New axle bevel has to face the same way. Roll pin into bevel side. Axle side in. If the roll pin won't go all the way through ,the splines are off 180 deg. The control arm up, it will stay in place. Tighten all nuts. Torque the axle nut (@140 ft lbs) then stake it. Before removing the strut bolts at any time (especially the upper) use a chisel to mark the nut and the bolt, this way they can go back the way they came out, saving you a realignment. If no impact gun, a 19mm to hold one side while you wrench on the other. 6 pt sockets and 1/2" drive are best. You need a penetrant of some type. The fsm is available in the sticky above, 2nd page under my name. O.

I use a c clamp and compress til I feel a lot of resistance, hang it vertically and do someting else and repeat til done. Have never had an issue. O.

OOps! O.

The old style two piece which many of us prefer (the hydraulic part seldom goes bad). Why?, less mfg cost. O

There are other tests to be made. Google Subaru DTC codes and check yours. Make sure the small metal line from the EGR to the solenoid valve is clear also. You can test the solenoid by connecting the green plugs under the dash and turning switch on. Listen for the clicking to confirm operation. Don't forget to unplug afterwards. In the future please start with more specifics.ie Engine, mileage. O.

What year OB? seems like the recovery and cap fitting are on the wrong side. You can always run extra line for the tranny cooler. O.

jack it up and remove the heat shield bolts (you'll probably have to cut them off). This way you can raise the shield enough to get an open end onto the bung and another on the sensor itself. If you don't a good 19mm open end, a small pipe wrench will work also. Spray with PB and try to tighten a bit to break the tension. Then unloosen. O.

any codes? Sounds like the IAC. Any coolant issues? O.

You have the marks correct. Is the tooth count on the belt correct? 44 from crank mark to passenger cam and 40.5 to driver cam. If this is correct then something is unplugged. Check crank , cam sensors and IAC hose to intake. O.

Use emery boards to clean the contacts. Unfortunately I left my diagram of pins for the harness where I won't get back to for a few days. In either case looking at the back of the connector #1 is Br, 2 is LG, 3 is LR and 4 is YL. Check resistance and see if one/more are much higher than the others. This may help you to narrow down if only one or two pulsing low. O.

Tho this issue is resolved. In times like these,I try to get a pipe wrench on it. If there's only enough room to make an 1/8 of a turn its generally enough to break it free. O.

You buy the ones that fit the engine. SOHC or DOHC. But these are for people who run big hp. Why spend over $100 on head bolts that don't need to be replaced on a run of the mill engine? O.

The roll pin should go in from the beveled side. If the pin doesn't go all the way in, the splines are 180 out. Watch the orientation when you do the rear. Install in the same way it came out. O.

The only problem is eventually you'll forget to take it out of gear, reach in and whoa! O.

Large screwdriver from behind. Can even tap with a piece of wood against the sprocket, rotating to even the movement. O.

The chips on the pulleys are benign, If they are not cracked I wouldn't replace. If you want to, a junk yard would be your best option. I've never had to use a puller to get them off. You are replacing the idlers, right? Remove oil pump and tighten screws on back if loose. Don't tighten the valve covers until after you have tightened your sprockets. A 1" open end will fit the flats on the cams to hold them. Careful of torque on cam bolts, the specs are very light. I know where the plug goes, but not enough knowledge to tell you where it goes w/o looking at an engine. Am sure someone will chime in here. Continue to take your time and all will be well. O.

The button may be pushed up some. It is by your left knee area. Get a flashlight and look. Once found, push in while cranking. This will hold until the next time the battery loses power.. Replace the battery in the key fob and go to cars101.com and look under programming remotes. O.

You need HG. All depends on what you can do mechanically and your budget. If a 2.2 swap is reasonable then that would be a great option. or fix the HG with Subaru turbo gaskets, Six Star, Cometic and lastly Fel-Pro. The heads must be resurfaced, which you can do yourself. O.

Classic HG issues, Engine? Mileage. When full do you get heat? How long does it take to oveheat? Doesn't o/h at idle, but after driving a bit, the gauge goes to hot? O.

Misread, thought you were lowering. Install and have alignment checked. O.

^ good to know! O.

Nothing. Unless you want more/less camber than the stock units provide. Going that low you need at some point to replace the bump steer bushings. O.

Injectors are easy to replace in car. The large fat ones that go into the manifold would be hard to get from anyone but an online store or dealer. I'd reinstall the originals,then get what you need, unless you can deal with the down time. O.

check opposed forces. find part, click on usage and see if the other year is listed. Wheels make no difference. O.

^++++ Agree with all said. Is it a P0420 code? If so, it's generally the rear O2 sensor. Do search under the code and you'll see available options. O.