ocei77

I lost a fuel pump in a 98 Forester two years ago. Rather than just replace the pump since it was less work, I swapped the assembly from a 97 Legacy that had died from other causes. Its still running today. Unless the tank was drained, you don't get oxidation on the copper lines. If necessary a swipe or two with 1000 or finer paper will be all that you need. I've never heard of the float itself going bad. O.

Salvage yard. From as late a model as you can. It only takes about 15 min to remove. Take PB, an 8mm socket, a phillips head screwdriver and a pair of pliers. You'll have to wiggle a little as the float level gets in the way. The nuts will be rusted. On your vehicle tighten a small bit to break the rust, then loosen. O.

The posted workaround works, but there is a simpler way. Cut the egr tube in half, rotate it 90 deg. facing pass side. Take the iac hose and the cut egr to auto store and get a foot of the size that fits it. There is another fitting that will go over it that will make a tight fit into the iac hose.(not sure of size) If you don't have another iac hose around get a foot of 3/4" ID hose of any type. Get a 3/4" T barb. Plastic is fine Hose clamps is all else you need. Lay it out as you install it so that you cut the iac hose in the right places. Will post pics as soon as I get to the car that the mod is on. O.

Just in case there is someone looking for this. See craigslist for NYC. Seller is asking $200. Been on list a while. I'm sure he'll deal. O.

Rebuilding an engine is time consuming and depending on machine costs expesnsive. If a bearing is gone more likely the crank is shot also. In the lower 48 it's usually cheaper to buy a crank with bearings than to turn the crank, new bearings and polish the rod( hoping that's all it needs). You have to check on freight costs, etc for a new crank, Try northernautoparts,com for cranks and get shipping. For the 25D heads on a 2.2 go to legacygt.com and look for posts by DOHCEJ22E1 . There is a complete build info there and which HG to use. If more info is needed, just post and I'll give you what I can. O.

In the future you don't need to remove the strut bolts to change the axle. Removing the sway bar upper bolt and the outer tie rod castle nut, popping the rod down gives you all the movement you need and you don't have to worry about possibly changing alignment. O.

Flashing At Oil Temp light is just telling you that there is a transmission code stored. A regular scanner will not read it. Perhaps some one will chime in with an app that can help. If not you'll have to find someone who can. O.

CT does emissions tests via the OBD port. Since the 96 Subaru monitors are always reset on key off, they will never show ready and thus cannot be read. 96 Subaru are exempt . Just tell them to look up their exemption list. You can call a station beforehand to make sure they are aware. O,

98 GT. 2.2 swap. over 200K. Works sporadically. Started acting up @ 6mos ago, swap is over 2 years ago. Getting code 740 because of it. Have replaced the circuit board and the tach itself. Tried to wiggle wires, but can't see function, What else to check? Thx. O.

If you have a 2.2 (since it's not an OB),, the last choice is a burnt exhaust valve, O.

There are actually three relays that control the fuel pump. The actual fuel pump relay is cylindrical and tucked up on the drivers side in a metal clip. May be white or green in color. In the engine panel SBF 2 controls juice to the fuel pump relay. However, SBF 4 controls juice to SBF 2. Check both, more often than not, it's one of these that has blown. O.

older cars, Subies included used Mercon for the PS system, for the most part. Power Steering fluid is supposed to have a little more conditioner to help the O rings stay elastic longer. (Not worth it IMO) Newer vehicles have more dedicated fluids, so one must follow the mfg recommendations. O.

If it is stuck in socket, I've found that a chisel works. Just keep hitting the round section at an angle so that the when the rust breaks free it'll start to rotate. Keep working until it rotates at least 270 deg. Put castle nut back on and either pry or hit the a arm with a bfh. It';ll come out. Obviously an air hammer would be a lot quicker, but most BYM don't have that at their disposal. O.

a small bottle jack with wood against the firewall and the piston pushing onto the block will work also. O.

My procedures is as follows. Make sure the converter is fully seated. The ears for the bolts should extend @ 1/4 " past the face of housing.. Grease the nose of converter. Raise the tranny and put a small block of wood from a 2x4 under each dowel point. Using the short side, this will raise the tranny 1 1/2". This will allow the engine mount studs to clear the frame and still slide easily into the tranny. Once the studs are in, a little upward pressure will allow you to push the blocks out. Lower and catch .a few threads on the studs. Turn the torque converter so that an ear is aligned with the inspection hole. This will allow easy catching of the TC bolts. Tighten tc bolt fully but not torqued to spec as you rotate to catch the other three. If you partially tighten, after you do the 3rd, you'll find that it won't rotate further. Standard practices after this., O.

Drlling is easier when you have the right bit first. If you want to use heat, remove the axle from the hub to get it out of the way. One of these days, I'll buy that special stuff that absorbs heat so I can use it near these types of things. O.

I assume you have already removed the crank sprocket. Remove connector for crank sprocket. Once done, carefully pry on the upper tabs to break the seal. Again, there is no gasket, only sealant between the pump and the block.. O.

Yes. Any small differences would be accommodated by the final angle turns. In addition those of us who do not have accurate wrenches are never at exactly the specified number and do not have issues. O.

Download FSM. New Gen FAQ sticky, 2nd page under my name. Will give you what you need to know. O.

You don't use a gasket on the oil pump, just sealant. Your choice, I use anaerobic. O.

Also pull the cam sensor. I've had two instances where the contact is covered in oil and dirt and would not pass all the signals. just clean it. o.

Test the coil. Sounds like it is bad. Our coils are paired. 1 and 2, use the front section and 3,4 the rear. O.

Spray with pb and use a BFH. Careful to not hit the wheel studs. O.

The 05 is made the same. There are two circlips. The first is just inside the fat housing. Once the boot is removed and you clean it some in gas, you will see it. A screwdriver will suffice to pry it out. Once that is removed, when you align the trunions with the cutouts, the cup will come off, allowing you to remove the circlip on the end of the axle and then the trunion. Now you can replace the boot. Only use CV joint grease on refill. Here is link to 2005 fsm : http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy%20Outback/ O.

Contact your parts source O.