ocei77

If you have a 2.2 (since it's not an OB),, the last choice is a burnt exhaust valve, O.

There are actually three relays that control the fuel pump. The actual fuel pump relay is cylindrical and tucked up on the drivers side in a metal clip. May be white or green in color. In the engine panel SBF 2 controls juice to the fuel pump relay. However, SBF 4 controls juice to SBF 2. Check both, more often than not, it's one of these that has blown. O.

older cars, Subies included used Mercon for the PS system, for the most part. Power Steering fluid is supposed to have a little more conditioner to help the O rings stay elastic longer. (Not worth it IMO) Newer vehicles have more dedicated fluids, so one must follow the mfg recommendations. O.

If it is stuck in socket, I've found that a chisel works. Just keep hitting the round section at an angle so that the when the rust breaks free it'll start to rotate. Keep working until it rotates at least 270 deg. Put castle nut back on and either pry or hit the a arm with a bfh. It';ll come out. Obviously an air hammer would be a lot quicker, but most BYM don't have that at their disposal. O.

a small bottle jack with wood against the firewall and the piston pushing onto the block will work also. O.

My procedures is as follows. Make sure the converter is fully seated. The ears for the bolts should extend @ 1/4 " past the face of housing.. Grease the nose of converter. Raise the tranny and put a small block of wood from a 2x4 under each dowel point. Using the short side, this will raise the tranny 1 1/2". This will allow the engine mount studs to clear the frame and still slide easily into the tranny. Once the studs are in, a little upward pressure will allow you to push the blocks out. Lower and catch .a few threads on the studs. Turn the torque converter so that an ear is aligned with the inspection hole. This will allow easy catching of the TC bolts. Tighten tc bolt fully but not torqued to spec as you rotate to catch the other three. If you partially tighten, after you do the 3rd, you'll find that it won't rotate further. Standard practices after this., O.

Drlling is easier when you have the right bit first. If you want to use heat, remove the axle from the hub to get it out of the way. One of these days, I'll buy that special stuff that absorbs heat so I can use it near these types of things. O.

I assume you have already removed the crank sprocket. Remove connector for crank sprocket. Once done, carefully pry on the upper tabs to break the seal. Again, there is no gasket, only sealant between the pump and the block.. O.

Yes. Any small differences would be accommodated by the final angle turns. In addition those of us who do not have accurate wrenches are never at exactly the specified number and do not have issues. O.

Download FSM. New Gen FAQ sticky, 2nd page under my name. Will give you what you need to know. O.

You don't use a gasket on the oil pump, just sealant. Your choice, I use anaerobic. O.

Also pull the cam sensor. I've had two instances where the contact is covered in oil and dirt and would not pass all the signals. just clean it. o.

Test the coil. Sounds like it is bad. Our coils are paired. 1 and 2, use the front section and 3,4 the rear. O.

Spray with pb and use a BFH. Careful to not hit the wheel studs. O.

The 05 is made the same. There are two circlips. The first is just inside the fat housing. Once the boot is removed and you clean it some in gas, you will see it. A screwdriver will suffice to pry it out. Once that is removed, when you align the trunions with the cutouts, the cup will come off, allowing you to remove the circlip on the end of the axle and then the trunion. Now you can replace the boot. Only use CV joint grease on refill. Here is link to 2005 fsm : http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy%20Outback/ O.

Contact your parts source O.

IIRC there are two. Just pull the stick and take it to a local auto/hardware store. This is not a critical part that has to dealer supplied. O.

I don't have complete info, but I have had to do some of the same. Perhaps one who does this a lot will chime in. Meanwhile, the bottom pieces of trim on the quarters will pop off, as does the trailing edge trim.The top trim is secured by 8mm nuts from the inside. You'll need a deep socket here. The access trim will just pop off. Don't pry on the glass with anything hard. You can heat the metal of the body inside the car with a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the adhesive, then push the wire through from the inside. I used a tire plug tool. You can then saw the wire to separate the glass from the adhesive. You have to make a way to secure the inside while doing this or a 2nd person. O.

As far as I can see there was no 97 Forester, not even in Europe. However, the Forester is just a wagon built on an Impreza flatform and I would start there. There are too many options for me to even think about answering. If you will go to a previous post started by grossgary on opposed forces website, there is a link there to this site that will guide you that should answer your question. Find your engine and drive configuration and click on the part number. Then click on usage info, this will give all the models that use the same part. O.

My link still works. I've had this happen when I've typed it in. You have to find an older link. If you can't, pm me your e mail and I'll send one. Too bad the board doesn't allow copy and paste. O.

All depends on what you mean by briefly. A few blinks are normal. If it blinks 16 times, then there is a stored fault code. This fault can be read (not by an OBD scanner). Do search under handshake method, or reading tranny codes to get the exact one. O.

Is it possible that he did a recent T belt change and broke a tooth from the crank sensor? O.

I am with Texan here, if you can do do the work yourself. For some it won't make a difference, but 30 less HP, with a wagon and hilly terrain or trying to use a trailer is felt. In addition to having more history with the same engine. O.

STI rims up to 07 were 5x100 IIRC. 17" rims will fit as long as the offset is good. Do some more research on LGT.com. They have a nice FAQ in their wheel and tire section. Do the basics, tune up, injector cleaner, etc. O.

Stant Xactstat 48457 is exactly the same as the oem unit and cheaper. O.