ocei77

IIRC there are two. Just pull the stick and take it to a local auto/hardware store. This is not a critical part that has to dealer supplied. O.

I don't have complete info, but I have had to do some of the same. Perhaps one who does this a lot will chime in. Meanwhile, the bottom pieces of trim on the quarters will pop off, as does the trailing edge trim.The top trim is secured by 8mm nuts from the inside. You'll need a deep socket here. The access trim will just pop off. Don't pry on the glass with anything hard. You can heat the metal of the body inside the car with a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the adhesive, then push the wire through from the inside. I used a tire plug tool. You can then saw the wire to separate the glass from the adhesive. You have to make a way to secure the inside while doing this or a 2nd person. O.

As far as I can see there was no 97 Forester, not even in Europe. However, the Forester is just a wagon built on an Impreza flatform and I would start there. There are too many options for me to even think about answering. If you will go to a previous post started by grossgary on opposed forces website, there is a link there to this site that will guide you that should answer your question. Find your engine and drive configuration and click on the part number. Then click on usage info, this will give all the models that use the same part. O.

My link still works. I've had this happen when I've typed it in. You have to find an older link. If you can't, pm me your e mail and I'll send one. Too bad the board doesn't allow copy and paste. O.

All depends on what you mean by briefly. A few blinks are normal. If it blinks 16 times, then there is a stored fault code. This fault can be read (not by an OBD scanner). Do search under handshake method, or reading tranny codes to get the exact one. O.

Is it possible that he did a recent T belt change and broke a tooth from the crank sensor? O.

I am with Texan here, if you can do do the work yourself. For some it won't make a difference, but 30 less HP, with a wagon and hilly terrain or trying to use a trailer is felt. In addition to having more history with the same engine. O.

STI rims up to 07 were 5x100 IIRC. 17" rims will fit as long as the offset is good. Do some more research on LGT.com. They have a nice FAQ in their wheel and tire section. Do the basics, tune up, injector cleaner, etc. O.

Stant Xactstat 48457 is exactly the same as the oem unit and cheaper. O.

WalMart. Goodyear Viva 3 . 16" sizes now $69, + balancing( not sure of their price). Quiet ,good tread life and good in all seasons. O.

If he has to pull no 3 he would have to pull the engine. The access is via the oil separator plate. Prayerfully it is as Adventure says. I would never go this deep into an engine w/o pulling it first. Smurfsack get a fsm from online and check out some youtube videos. You can do it. O.

Go to car-part.com. Input your info and it will give parts that are compatible. If it was me, I'd either just put more lube in there and close up the ends, or replace the boots. Latter will probably require an alignment afterwards. O.

Sounds like the coil plug. Have to look at mine when I get outside. Will edit if necessary. O.

Get the t belt and idlers/water pump kit first. sometimes they come with the metal gasket. The passenger side stays put unless you hit it. The drivers side intake is under tension, where you just go slow until you're on point. A spring clip would help here until you go around the exhaust sprocket. The cam bolts are 17mm. If you break the tension on the crank bolt first, then just line up your timing marks, they won't move much if you just give a sharp rap to the breaker to unloosen the crank bolt again. For a FSM go to New Gen FAQ. Second page under my name is a link. Rotate the crank by hand a few revolutions after you pull the tensioner pin. This to make sure all is well and that the timing marks align again. The marks on the belt will not. Welcome. O.

upper left corner. The plate should be marked. O.

yes. Can be sealed with only sealant. If the o ring is in once piece, reuse it and put sealant on cover. O.

Get the new allen type bolts, bought separately. Might as well reseal the access plate on the opposite side. Sealant alone will suffice for both. O.

The only issue you'll have is just doing the rear. The OB has an 18mm in rear and IIRC a 20mm in the front. If you do go to just a 19, you'll still have slight understeer, flatter cornering and basic controllability. A 20 rear will have neutral handling and can go into oversteer w/o warning. Be prepared. Larger will be instant oversteer. If you can handle it fine, if not, don't. O.

Tell them to look up the exception list. The 96 Impreza and Legacy were exempt from this test. Reason, this early version of Suby's OBDII reset all the monitors whenever the ignition is turned off. This is from the EPA. O. Subaru OB Exemption.pdf

Seems like classic air in the system. You need to fill via the upper radiator hose first, then when it starts to overflow, clamp it and fill with the engine idling. Do a search for burping the system. O.

Just clean the heads well with gas and blow the oil galleys out as a precaution, though I've never heard of bearing material migrating upwards. New head bolts are not needed or required. You can do the heads yourselfhttp://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122588-diy-head-resurfacing-or-post-apocalyptic-machine-shop-techniques/. Whatever you do, get a quality belt ( Gates/Mitsuboshi). O.

You are doing something wrong. Put breaker bar on so it will hit the frame near the battery. If its too long, angle it so that it will hit the floor. No way in God's creation that this will not loosen that bolt. O

Rest your breaker bar against the frame and blip the starter. Will break it loose every time. To tighten you can insert a flat blade screwdriver into a hole on pass. side of block. It will hit the flexplate. Rotate crank and it will slide into a slot and keep the crank from turning. http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd191/boostedbug/Subaru%20conversion/valance019.jpg pic courtesy of JohnE O.

Read the instructions completely before you go out. IIRC about 19mm or so. Put cyl at tdc. Use a heavy grease on tap to grab chips. Go SLOW. Take a few extensions for the socket and a small hammer to set the insert. A few rags. And of course a spark plug. If I have left something out, someone can add/correct. O.

There is a helicoil specifically made for spark plug repair. It catches whatever threads you have, and cuts new ones. You then seat the threaded insert and use the same plugs. It uses a ratchet so you'll have enough room. O.