ocei77

Unless the 99 tranny is toast, just put the 99 intake manifold with harness onto the 96 motor and 99 tranny. O.

They will fit, no rubbing. O.

Thanks for the correction. O.

if a bearing went out, it has scored the crank. If you want to delve into it, you can get a reman crank and bearings for about $250 plus your core(northernautoparts.com), or have your crank machined and get new bearings to match. Sometimes you can find a part out on craigslist at a good price. The idlers, tensioner and water pump will swap over. You need a 99-01 EJ22 for the harness to match. O.

The "rental" units from Advance Auto are very good. Sturdy, lock pins and easy to use. "Rented" a pair once and decided to buy them as I had a lot of struts to do on various Subys. O.

It works, no codes and no drilling needed. Cut the egr tube in half. Rotate to right. Get hose to fit. Get a 3'4" plastic T barb from hardware. Cut IAC hose so that the barb will be facing the firewall. Attach other end of IAC to intake. Now you need piece of hose to go from the barb to the egr line. You also need a fiiting that will go over the small line from egr to the iac hose. Take the egr tube with you so you'll get what you need to fit. I got my pieces from Advance Auto. Clamp the egr connections(hard line, fitting on intermediate hose, and where intermediate goes into the T'd barb). The two sides of the IAC barb don't need clamps as the one piece doesn't use any. Can't take a picture to show the one I did and my drawing skills are non existent. Once you get into it you'll see. O.

Spary PB and tap it so it starts to twist. Back and forth a few times then it will pry out. O.

There is a fuse that controls it also. Check that. it's listed on the cover. In addition an engine bay sbf controls it and the fuel pump. O.

It's one thing if a man beats us fair and square, but we'll be damned if we let an inanimate object get us down for the count !!!!!. O.

Battery cables tight? O.

I sincerely doubt it. Will probably rub, but check here: rimsntires.com/specs.jsp. put in your info, O.

Being a DIY, I do not have all the tools that a regular mechanic may have, so I like you try to remove items that may be easier with a specialized tool, but for whatever the reason don't buy. That being said,, I spray with PB a day or two before I start. After removing the pinch bolt ( which sometimes have their own issues), I remove cotter pin from castle nut and unscrew it a little to make sure it moves. Then I remove the sway bar bolt and pry downwards on the control arm. This has worked for me.in all cases but one, in which the ball joint snapped!. I then used a chisel on the ball joint until it broke free of the rust and freely rotated and pried it out. I always run the insides of the socket with 1000 grit or finer paper, clean and anti seize. O.

^+1 Seeing as you are probably new to Subarus, you can't just fill the system by filling the radiator. Do a search for burping the system. O.

If the starter operates there is an open or ground short circuit between the ecm. and the starter motor connector. This from the DTC code listing in the FSM which I know you have. Page 202 of 294. O.

Note orientation of top plate. there is an arrow, note where it points and install replacement similarly. Use a chisel to mark the top strut bolt and the nut, this so they can go back the same, hopefully negating an alignment. Use a 6 pt 19mm , breaker bar and PB. Top nuts are 12. O.

Yes it's an oil cooler. For whatever reason on non turbo engines Subaru has only put them on the Forester engines. O.

^+1 Quality headgaskets and resurfacing at the minimum. O.

Yes, the Oil cooler uses a T stat housing that has two ports. One for the cooler and one for the bypass pipe. O.

Don't remove the engine mount bolt entirely on the side you are not working on, this will prevent the possibility of misalignment. Ie :working on driver's side, remove driver side mount, but leave two or three threads caught on passenger side. Do the work, then alternate. O.

I don't quite understand the issue. If you have a Forester engine with oil cooler, everything should be there. The OB body wouldn't make a difference. Are you mixing engine parts? If so follow advice above^. When I get to another place, I have an engine that I put the oil cooler on, so I can take a pic. Will hopefully get there within the next few days. O.

Its an oil cooler. Just put the engine in. O.

Its called a Back Pressure Transducer (BPT). It's part of the egr system. Get one from salvage.. O.

Intake .20 Exh .25 mm tolereance of +/- .02 O.

Yes, replace the rotors. Check pads, if worn a lot or scored, might as well do it all at once. Only two extra bolts per side. Depending on the year of car, most bracket bolts are 17mm. An extension and 1/2" ratchet would be best. Spray with PB beforehand if you can. Sometimes the rotors are stuck. Since you are replacing them, a good whack with a BFH will shake them loose, though there are two threaded holes that take an 8x1.25 bolt to push them off. If you have it , wire wheel the outside of the hub that the rotor centers on and a little of the face. I generally put a little anti seize on the circumference of the hub and a little on the face. This to minimize sticking in the future. Anti seize all the bolts before reinstalling. O.

I lost a fuel pump in a 98 Forester two years ago. Rather than just replace the pump since it was less work, I swapped the assembly from a 97 Legacy that had died from other causes. Its still running today. Unless the tank was drained, you don't get oxidation on the copper lines. If necessary a swipe or two with 1000 or finer paper will be all that you need. I've never heard of the float itself going bad. O.