ocei77

try here Index of /Auto/Japan/Subaru O.

Might. Won't be able to check until I get to my storage unit next week. Will advise. O.

Are you referring to the older 2 piece tensioner bracket? O.

no, not worth it. Just get some KYB's for your model and call it a day. O.

Also check facebook marketplace and any u pull it salvage yard. 1O.

If your sure your lug nuts are tight , then likely your bearings are shot . To replace the complete hub is not that hard. Just time and jack stands. Go here for fsm:Index of /Auto/Japan/Subaru

The hose is the vapor line for the fuel system. Go here for fsm for car: Index of /Auto/Japan/Subaru O.

As others have said,, replace them. Just the EJ22 had composite gaskets. The early EJ25's had single layer gaskets, they later went to MLS types. O.

I've done it both ways but without help or a tranny jack, i'd lift the engine. You have to get it up high and its no fun wrestling that weight. Yes you have to drain the coolant and separate the exhaust (don't forget to disconnect the O2 sensors), but I can do this without help. O.

Using your heads and intake manifold any 2000 to 2012 will work. Better options would be 06 up. In 05 Subaru went to Drive by Wire . The Radiator and water pump housing leads are in slightly different places, so don't cut those hoses you may need them. Depending on block year, you may need the radiator. You can use an Impreza block, but the oil pan is different. I believe those are the differences. If I think of anything else, I'll chime in. O.

this may help https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/ O.

look in opposedforces.com look at your car. find the part . Go into it and look at the usage info which will tell you what other models used the same part. Hope this helps. O.

if you go to live data, just select complete set and scroll down to the O2 sensor in question. You should see the voltage fluctuate. The car has to warm up and the system in closed loop Hitting enter will graph that function. You will see something resembling a square wave. Don't remember the normal values. Listed in the DTC code section of manual. again, no cel sb no worries O.

check the manual from the other post you made. O.

if you're not getting a cel, you should be good. If anyone has scanner with a live data function, you can look at the voltage to double check. IIRC the whites are heater wires and black the ground. O.

Been a while since I worked on this series, but IIRC thats the air temperature solenoid. Look at the manual here to confirm. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ There is still some air. Make sure the overfill bottle has coolant. Loosen the top radiator hose. If coolants starts coming out, the block is full. If not, add to the top hose then reconnect. Leave the radiator cap off overnight and check level in the morning O.

Make sure the cam sensor is not covered in muck. O.

doubt it, but just in case, look at the heater core in the service manual. Had to do it once on a 98 Outback. Three hours out and three hours in.

yes that hose. It varies in method of attachment and size in various years.

Also your 03 crank sensor must stay

IIRC up to 2012. Diiferences are 06 heads up have VVT, but you are not using them anyway. Impreza engines will work, but you need to use your old oil pan. Your 03 manifold stays. You will have to work around the PCV valve arrangement as i am sure the manifold to air box is diffent. Surely someone else will chime in. O.

AFAIK from 90-94 are mostly the same. Look here: www.main.experiencetherave.com - /subaru_manual_scans/ Osei

Can always use a siphon pump or a drill operated pump.

When was the timing belt last changed? I assume this a two piece tensioner. Still has tension? Any codes?

Are the fans coming on? Are you getting bubbles in the overflow tank? Did you recently do something with the cooling system? If so, did you fill the block first and then the radiator or just the radiator?