ocei77

Has the water pump ever been changed? O.

Is the Tstat oem or Stant 48457? Bubbles in overflow bottle? Have you been using Subaru's "conditioner"? Dried antifreeze at head seams? Unfortunately, it sounds a lot like HG. You are going to cook your bearings driving like this. O.

You can check compatibility by checking sites like RockAuto or an online dealer and see if they use the same numbers. O.

This is the passenger side , right? If so that is the hole where the gear oil dipstick goes in. If you don't have it, go to a bone yard and get one. FSM : here:https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals-(FSM)-Every-Model-USDM-EU O.

don't know what the going prices are out there, but take into consideration the following. It's still a 21 year old car. The timing belt has to be changed and the bushings should be checked for dry rot. Here in NY state it would be a $1000=1200 car. O.

look up here: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ O.

Good to know. Thanks

First, I don't have a turbo at least not yet. Second, it would have made more sense to me to make a sturdier pick up tube, rather than a $700 pan and tube as in the Killer B. O.

The clearance was wrong. You generally get an orange/red plastic spacer to give the correct clearance. My 05 uses it

Probably wire, Switch to another cylinder, clear code and see if code returns on the new cylinder. O.

I doubt they purchased them like that. They were probably cleared at home. Do search on how to clear headlights. You basically have to put unit in a warm oven, separate the halves, remove orange parts and reseal. Best to start on an extra set, so if you mess it up, you'll still have a working units. O.

05 up to10 You will have to swap the heads as you do not have avls on an 05. Not sure what difference there may be in later years, but keep the heads and IM O.

One big one down and one to go. O.

So what did it end up being? O.

Is the IAC hose connected? O.

IIRC You may have to swap the engine coolant temp sensor. The 97 uses two separate sensors, one for the temp and one for the gauge. The 99 harness and sensor does both at once. O.

+1^ and the rest of your fluids As a precaution I keep an alternator belt in the car and basic sockets and wrenchs You can drive about an hour w/o one, but then I would probably be in the middle of nowhere. O.

Are you trying to do a valve adjustment or reinstall T belt correctly? The above info is correct for T belt install. What engine and year? O.

The diagram just is just telling you what colors the lead wires are. You missed the optional arrangement note. ECU is under carpet in passenger footwell. O.

Perplexing. Although the coil and plug wires are new, try anyway to see if you are getting leakage at the terminal. At night or in a dark garage, let vehicle run and when it stumbles, spray water with a mister around the connections. Check voltage at coil when it stumbles, one plug at a time and be careful! Again, check your sensors won't take but a few minutes. The ignition signals go from the sensors to the ecu and then back to plugs. Get FSM and go to the 300 series of DTC's there are 4 pages of troubleshooting O.

If the timing is off they are not getting the correct signal at the proper time.. Easy to check by removing the timing cover and aligning the crank. If the car is not underpowered, they are firing at some point. Make sure you have continuity and correct resistance between the bulk harness and the injector terminals. There are diagnostics and connector listings in the FSM, which you can download here:http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ Wiring would be under engine electrical Are you only getting codes 301 and 302? O.

Check your timing and that the sensors are clean, especially the crank. O.

Go here; http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp O.

OBDII, non interference, single port heads. 97 on are interference. O.

Check the timing and that crank and cam sensors are connected. O.