ocei77

Yes you can. Swap heads, Intake manifold, crank sprocket, and the crossover pipe as the harness connect for the ECT is in the front and won't reach that on the earlier block as that ect is in the rear. Of course you have to swap the flywheel and timing belt guide over. Take your time and use the HG designed for the turbo engine. O.

The 97 L had 10.1 front rotors. The GT and LSI had 10.9" front rotors, necessitating 15" rims for the LSI and for style purposes 16" for the GT. I doubt a 14" wheel will clear. You can try a rim w/o tire to see if it'll fit. O.

^ Unnecessary. It had to come off whether a new one was to be used or not O.

No visible wet spots. Will run new lines to proportioning valve and go from there. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions and help. Will advise. Have to figure out line size and get a flaring tool. O.

The plan is to check those rear lines closely today. I did use about 50 oz in my fill of new mc and bleed of lines until new fluid appeared. Will advise. O.

O.

What perplexes me is there were zero brake issues before removing calipers to change rotors. This is not just mushy brakes. They are never hard now and as you maintain pressure the pedal sinks to the floor. No real braking when in motion. O.

05 Legacy 5MT 225K Wanted to change F rotors to slotted units I had. Done. Reassembled and out of nowhere, no brake pedal!! The brake lines were not opened and there are no leaks. Wound up replacing both calipers as the bleeder screws broke off. Bled, still no pedal. It works, but goes all the way down. Seemed like classic master cylinder failure. Replaced master cylinder. Still no pedal! All four wheels have been bled, the new master was bench bled before installation. What next? Bad ABS HU, from out of nowhere? O.

Disconnect battery, now you can work in peace. There should be a small button on the lower left trim panel down by your knee. If not look under the panel and it may be taped up. Hold in while you start car. Get key fob from Ebay and go to cars101.com to the section on programming remote, O.

replace the bushings. You won't have to replace them again, in addition to doing the work only once. O.

PB or Kroil. Make warm first. vise on O2 bung ( you can buy replacements cheap if needed), and wrench on sensor. O.

Only if they are the same. O.

Yes you can swap in this manner. Also swap the crank gear and cam sprocket.from the 2005. O.

Must be a year/ gen thing. I just swapped an engine from an 05 into my 5mt from an auto. The crank gears are exactly the same. O.

+1^ Plus the usuals for any Suby that age. ie. maintenance records, T belt, suspension play, working locks and windows etc. O.

Did you turn the car on or at least to the start position before you plugged in the scanner? Most will give a link error if this is not done, O,

Let it cool first. Remove upper radiator hose and fill . Then attch clamp and add to radiator. Suby's have their T stat at the bottom of the block, so just filling the radiator as is custom does not fill the block. Then proceed as you usually do. O

If yours are like my 05 wagon( no reason it shouldn't), it's a fixed nut. No reason that 12mm should break. But Murphy rears its head at odd times.. Poly bushings are better and don't forget the lube. O.

If the 05 is the CA emissions as stated above you would have to swap the cylinder heads to make it work. In either case you need to swap the intake manifold as the 05 is DBW. Swap the crank sensor, and the driver's cam sprocket. You will probably need to swap the water crossover pipe as the temp sensor is on the front in the 05 and the harness won't reach to the old location on the back and the connectors are different. O. .

Would suggest hand tools, though an impact shoukl work without issue. I'd break it by hand then use the impact. Don't need a 2nd person. Don't forget that little 10mm on the bottom main seal side of case. O.

+1^ http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp Most probably a 55 profile, as that is stock on the legacy. 70's will rub. O.

What has worked for me is putting the castle nut back on and hitting the control arm with a BFH. Have also used a 4-5 ft cheater bar and pried the control arm down. O.

Unusual to have problems with Bosch as they are the originators of O2 sensors(but this doesn't make them immune from issues). I have replaced in a 98 IOB and a 97 Legacy with Bosch and never had issues. Denso, NTK and Bosch are what I usually recommend., all of whom have been oem suppliers at one time or another. O.

See attached. Complete FSM here:http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ O. MSA5TCD96L5975.pdf

You may be surprised to know, but there only a handful of people that make clutches etc. Sachs being one of the major ones and their TO bearing "garbage" looks exactly like the oem one. If you buy a clutch kit for less than $100 expect garbage, Sachs is not one of those. O.