ocei77

Found this https://www.obd-codes.com/p0866 O.

Would search and post over on LegacyGT.com. There are a few who have done this over there and should be able to offer aid. O.

Yes. As usual not a lot of room on driver side, but doable. Had to remove and replace the valve covers a few times on my 05 Legacy while setting valve lash. O.

The moral of this story is that if the price seems to be too good to be true it probably is. Sorry you had to learn the hard way. O.

An easy way to get the pins out is as follows. You need a pair of needle nose pliers to remove and reinsert the circlips, a 22mm socket on a ratchet to turn the crank and a stiff rod of some sort about 18 to 24 inches long I only remove the circlip that allows the pins to be pushed out. You use the rod to snake past the connecting rod in front of you and tap out the pin from the back of the rod you're working on. ie, snaking past 3 to tap 1 out etc. Use a 3/4" wood dowel as a drift to insert the pin. Leaving the backside circlip in allows you to tap until it seats firmly. O.

All EJ25's have four access ports. One is behind the separator plate. T70 Torx.. O.

See following from FSM/ You can download FSM from here http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ O.ignition coil and ignitor assembly.pdf

In my opinion no. Just get the EJ22 and call it a day, If you want the experience, rebuild the one you pull. .P

Sounds like the TO bearing went and the clutch fork is damaged. Prayerfully that's all it is. O.

For future ref. here is link to FSM.http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ BTW that is page 3729. O,

Have him look in FSM here: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ Look under DTC code 301 and follow procedures. O.

Get rid of it. T belt and accessory change is 100K or 8 years IIRC. You can get a quality kit with tensioner for @$150. O.

I don't see any. Both are dbw, the ecs is on the front of the crossover pipe in both cases, just double check the crank and cam sprockets. O.

There may be a vin stamped on the passenger side of the block. It is on a flat surface above the axle. Will have to clean first. O.

Make sure your harness connector is fully engaged. Here is link to fsm. Look at engine electrical. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ Also starting at page 171 of the DTC section is troubleshooting for the injectors O.

Make sure the crank gears are the same and that crank and cam sensors are plugged in O.

Just back off the adjusting screw so that the drum slides on. Rotate. If it rotates freely, tighten the adjusting screw until it starts to drag, then back off a little. A new hardware kit will make life easier, but not necessary.. A regular pair of pliers to hold the cup against the spring as you rotate for the clip will work. O.

The Brighton was a drum vehicle. Used a lot as a fleet vehicle. Look for exhaust leaks before the first cat,. Is a possible cause. for 420. Clear codes and swap wires to 3 and 4 and see if codes follow.. O.

Check for exhaust leaks before the first O2 sensor. What brand of O2 sensor did you buy? Reliable brands include Bosch, NGK and Denso. O.

You can pull the balancer and timing cover to inspect the belt for embedded metal and put back. If you find defects in the belt, plan on replacing as soon as feasible. O.

You seem to have two concurrent but different issues. The O2 sensor in the rear may need to be replaced, but first go through the diagnostic listed in the FSM . http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ You will need to remove the end covers and blow the main cover out thoroughly with air. There are still pieces floating around from the crank pulley. O.

Oops missed the hissing sound. Got tunnel vision there. O.

Irrelevant on history of 08 since it has a hole in block. Just follow what has already been noted in your other thread. O.

Link to FSM; http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ O.

Either will work, O.