ocei77

I'd say you can safely use more weight than this. I do some small contracting work and I regularly carry various loads of plywood,sheetrock and lumber on top. Not trying to carry a new deck's worth but I am sure I carry a lot of 150-200 lbs loads, with no ill effects. This on a 96 OB. O.

Unfortunately, you have to remove the cam w/o that special tool. With all that entails. You may be able to do it in place with a cloth covered screwdriver, but I have never tried it. O.

It will. I removed the engine mount bolts on the driver side and left a few threads on the pass. side. Then jacked up the engine so I could get the valve cover off. You obviously have to remove the washer tank. Don't forget to clean and put sealant back on the corners of the valve cover on reinstall. O.

Clearance on the intake is .0079+/- .0008. Exhaust .0098 +/- .0008 This is listed on the engine specs page Since it's hard to get the arrow at exactly the clock position mentioned, you may be ok on the intake. I'd do a full two revs and check again. O.

I'd check with the dealer's parts dept. I have no info on the 09+ other than the fsm. O.

You have to match the final drive ratio. The 97 OB had a 4.444. You have to look up the specs for the 99 tranny. O.

It is generally a stock item. Check. They are the same pitch and length of the countersunk ones, just with a rounded hex head screw. O.

The passenger side is no problem. I've taken to removing the driver side engine mount and just leaving a few threads on the passenger side and jacking the driver side up. Also makes it easier to get that lower vc bolt. O.

That's not a rear main leak. Thats overspray from the plate. I'd leave it. If you decide to do it, the seal should be flush or a hair below the boss. When doing seals of this type I use a small block of wood which spans the diameter and tap it around the circumference. O.

Was going through some old favorites and ran across this chart which should be helpful to many. O. EJ_cr_matrix (1).pdf

Stant #48457 is the one you want. It's called Xactstat. O.

Repair options depend on the time needed. What is bad are your contacts in the solenoid. Replace cost $10-15 plus time to get it to you. Immediate replacement, a starter from salvage, cost ???? ( I've never bought one) As an aside, the starter motor rarely goes bad, it's always the solenoid. O.

The grill has pop it type fasteners. If yyou remove the radiator supports the fan assembly will tilt away and you can squueeze the locks to release. There are 4 on the of the grill and two in the middle. These you hope they come out easily, but most probably these tabs will break. There is a ten mm hidden there. Is a total of 4 10's that have to be removed. O.

Year and model of car? Try adjusting the switch, it should not be in constant contact with the pedal, There should be a gap. Minimal, but a gap. O.

You have your answer. Change the crank and cam sensors. O.

Get the belt kit, but just install the belt and start. Will tell you if you've bent valves. If not, remove then add the idlers etc. Leave the rear main alone. 99.5 times out of a 100 it's the oil separator plate. Also do the o ring on the drivers side piston pin access plate. O.

Bosch is ok for the O2. They have been the OEM supplier at one time or another. Denso and NTK are ok also. O.

Check that the large hose(@1" dia) from the IACV to air intake is attached. O.

A small clarification. PZEV did not start in Ca. Ca had the strictest emissions standards and Subaru's response was the PZEV. This started in 04 and early 05, so this is the odd header design that Subaru first used. Other mfg have different names. It's the CA emissions std that other states have adopted. O.

Sorry won't fit. The rear from the 03=04 OB are 11.3" in diameter. Your rotors are either 10.2/10.5", (see cars101,com). They would require a new caliper and bracket and 16" wheels. I'd take them for possible future upgrades. O.

You don't by any chance have installed the old style tensioner do you? All the slack is out? The 40.5 is the tooth count you should have from the crank sprocket mark. O.

Try Amazon or Ebay. O.

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The "easiest" route is from the bottom. But the last swap I did about 2 mos ago, no matter how I tried. the swivel would always be at the wrong angle and locked up preventing me from turning the bolt. I have pulled axle pins before, but this time I did it from above both off and on, and yes it was an auto. O,

The "easiest" route is from the bottom. But the last swap I did about 2 mos ago, no matter how I tried. the swivel would always be at the wrong angle and locked up preventing me from turning the bolt. I have pulled axle pins before, but this time I did it from above both off and on, and yes it was an auto. O,