ocei77

Make sure the u joints in the steering rack are greased. O.

Hose from the manifold crossover pipe goes to left/topmost heater hose. Water bypass to the other. for future ref:: www.main.experiencetherave.com- /Subaru_manual_scans/ O.

According to www.opposedforces.com , all Subarus, from 92-98 used the same hub, plus the 99 Impreza's and Foresters. The only difference is whether it had ABS or not. The ABS units having the tone ring attached. For fsm go to my post in New FAQ sticky O.

ref to fsm: www.main.experiencetherave.com-/subaru_manuals_scans attached is pdf to test coil Service Procedure Ignition Coil.pdf

97 Legacy is 58 ft lbs +/- 11. Yours should be the same. Go to the FAQ sticky and under my name there is a link to the fsm. O.

Can't even begin to tell you how much I depress the clutch in stop and go traffic. I am sure they didn't fully disengage the clutch. They thought it was down but wasn't. If you live in a metro area with a lot of traffic, there just is no other way. O.

If the other hash marks are lined up then you are off 2 teeth. Very rough running, sometimes not at all. Realign. If you do not have fsm. Go to my post in Sticky under new gen FAQ. Follow link. O.

All Subaru engines from 1997 on are interference. In addition the 96 2.5DOHC. May I ask what parts are you ordering where this makes a difference? O.

See: www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp. this will show all you need to know. Use 55 deg offset for wheels. O.

You'll have to do a little search for some features, such as the aux input as it was a second connector that the 1990 harness won't have.

What do you mean you'd do it if were yours. She's your sister! Blood is supposed to be thicker than water.

Before I changed my crank sensor, I double checked my timing and it is off. Will have to wait until I get back to the garage on Mon to reset. I wanted to change the crank sensor because that controls spark. If it is failing you can get sporadic, but consistent misfires. It's not a common failure, but I was going down my list. So, check your timing.

I'd do the T stat (oem or Stant Xactstat only) and radiator cap. If that fixes the overheating issue, then go on to the T belt etc. A breaker bar against the frame and bump the starter, will pop the crank bolt loose.

Am having similar issues tracking down a misfire on a 96OB. Have done all that you have done. My next item is changing the crank sensor. I'd check your fuel pressure since you have the ability to do so. I also notice that you have not changed your fuel filter. Do so. A partially gunked up filter will not let fuel flow consistently.Unless you can rule this out, a fuel pressure test won't be conclusive. O.

I have heard of many things owners have done to finally get their engine separated. Some procedures like the above is not something the average person has or can do. I have only had two instances where the engine has been stuck in the approximately 12-18 engines I've had to remove. What has worked in those instances and something that everyone has access to is a simple bottle jack. Place some wood against the firewall. The piston against a projection on the block and pump. It works like a charm. Everytime. O.

Especially on the 2.2 I would look into the T stat ( how old?), radiator cap and a possible oncoming failure of the water pump. Do the simple stuff first. If it comes to the water pump, do it along with your t belt and idlers. O.

If it's an auto and the belt is still there, the easiest way to pop the crank bolts is to put the screwdriver through the bolt hole on passenger side above axle. this will prevent the engine from turning and be a piece of cake. A manual will need some sort of strap wrench, or a 12mm 6pt socket on a 3/8 breaker on the flywheel bolt. Turn engine till the bar rests against the housing and go as above. O.

No need to remove fuel relay or crank afterwards. VERY little gas comes out. You'll get a small squirt as you remove the line, but the rest(maybe 1/2 oz if that much) just dribbles. Just elevate the line. O.

You do need to swap the flexplates. O.

a ratcheting 14mm would help a lot with those stud nuts plus many other things. With the car jacked up high on stands, I've even been able to deal with the driver side nut from under the car. That is if I didn't want to pop the roll pin and pull the axle out. Generally the weight of the engine pops it loose. If not, instead of screwdrivers and putty knives, I just use a bottle jack with a piece of wood against the firewall. On install I use 2 blocks of wood under the bell housing to raise it up. Only about 2-3 in long and an inch or so high. Pushed back so the front is flush with the housing. Aids in getting those mount bolts clear. Alternative is to jack up the tranny with wood on the jack. A bolt with large washers will work to attach the chain to the engine mount loop. Watch so that the tension on the chain doesn't put pressure against the tps. O.

See my post in New Gen FAQ sticky above. Ref to manual there. O.

You'll have to look up the wiring for your Panasonic to figure out what Panasonic uses them for. Go online. Here is ref for Suby wiring. O. Audio System.pdf

Go to www.opposedforces.com /parts. Will list part #'s. From there you can go to the part itself and figure out sizes.,etc. Unfortunately we cannot imbed the link. Sometimes the typed link will work and sometimes not, for whatever reason. O.

Why a smaller pan? How much smaller? Will you check level consistently. Being less in qty., your oil will break down faster, so you'll have to change more often. You can do either the block or the pan,, but since the engine is out, it's so easy to do the pan. The choice is yours. O.

Gas and a green scrub sponge. A plastic scraper. Wire wheel on a drill. All will work. Get the oem metal gasket or just use plain sealant with no gasket. Don't use a fiber gasket. O.