ocei77

Download the fsm from sticky. All info you'll need including electrical is in there. O.

Put a screwdriver behind the screw and put pressure on it as you unscrew it with another. Alternatively you can use a grip pliers to turn it as you pull on it. As a last resort you can cut it off with a hacksaw or cut off wheel. O.

^+1 Go over your hoses for cracks etc. Check the water bypass pipe t for rust and/holes. You already have a metal separator plate, but I would reseal it since it's accessible. O.

See attached. Follow link to your vehicle copy and paste into browser. O. opposed forces.txt

Dealer only. @$38-40 O.

for ref: do search in new gen sticky for fsm. Will answer your questions. O.

Valvoline synthetic. No issues and with noticeably slicker gear changes. O.

my pleasure O.

see cars101.com cargo measurements for 2014 Forester O.

Also make sure your green test connectors are not plugged in under the dash. This would make the fans cycle also. O.

I know the issue. I just use a 3/8 socket with a breaker bar or an adapter to the 3/8 from 1/2. Whichever was handier at the moment. Generally the 1/2 adapter so I can use my impact wrench to wind the bolts out. O.

For most drivers D & S are for bling purposes only. We don't ( can't) drive non turbo cars to get any real benefit. If you are in the mind set to just go for it, I'd go with reputable types from e bay sellers, ie: No unheard of brands. O.

use a 3/8 socket and ext with the adapter to 1/2 unless you have a 3/8 size breaker bar. O.

Replacement of betl etc is 10 yrs /100K mileage. Whichever comes first. Insofar as the tensioner, is yours one or two piece? If two piece, replace the roller only. O.

yep. you need 12 pt 12mm. O.

The head bolts are 14 and the others are 12. O.

Check to see if it has slipped timing. O.

To add. Replace the springs (dealer only part) for the throw out bearing and closely examine the fork for any cracks, if so replace it. O.

If you don't have it, download the FSM. Search the sticky above for FSM. When you look at the crank there should be a group of 5 letters, ranging from A to maybe D. Each letter represents a tolerance range. Attached is the engine spec sheet JIC. A is std. ,B is .03,C is .05 and D is.25. Should also be a group of 4 letters for the rod bearings. Haven't been able to decipher those. Unfortunately cranks are not generally all one size from the factory. You can buy separate main bearings from Subaru, but not rod bearings. If it is within your budget, would be easier to have them all machined to the same size. O. general description.pdf

The 99 2.2 uses an AFR O2 sensor in the front. If this is going bad, your mileage will suffer. First tho, do the usual. Plugs are a must. Then see how it does. O.

www.cars101.com O.

95 FSM says 2,1 psi for activation of light. Data in lubrication section on specifications page.(last pdf in section) O.

Do search for FSM in the FAQ sticky, or just scroll down. They are there. O.

If the engine is running ok otherwise, I'd just pull the engine to replace the separator plate, which is probably what's leaking, if the leak is from the rear. The 2.2 is a good option if you HAVE to replace the engine. O.

You need to tighten the bolts further. When just finger tight the last one or two will now be sticking up. Have had this happen a few times. O.