ocei77

Gas and a green scrub sponge. A plastic scraper. Wire wheel on a drill. All will work. Get the oem metal gasket or just use plain sealant with no gasket. Don't use a fiber gasket. O.

Go to legacygt.com forum. 2nd generation, then suspension faqs in the sticky. Will give you a lot of info. You'll probably be changing tires, but you have to if going to another suby's struts. The 205/70/15 which are standard on most OB's will rub. Know the info is out there on spring rates, just can't remember where ATM. The OB generally weigh @100lbs more than the sedan. O.

In addition to cleaning the IAC, you need to check for vacuum leaks. Most generally spray carb cleaner and see if engine surges at any point. If after verifying there are no leaks and you have to replace, go to salvage and get one. Clean it and install. Too pricey for new. O.

the correct name is oil cooler pipe, The bypass pipe goes from water pump and tees into the IACV and heater input. see

Download the fsm from sticky. All info you'll need including electrical is in there. O.

Put a screwdriver behind the screw and put pressure on it as you unscrew it with another. Alternatively you can use a grip pliers to turn it as you pull on it. As a last resort you can cut it off with a hacksaw or cut off wheel. O.

^+1 Go over your hoses for cracks etc. Check the water bypass pipe t for rust and/holes. You already have a metal separator plate, but I would reseal it since it's accessible. O.

See attached. Follow link to your vehicle copy and paste into browser. O. opposed forces.txt

Dealer only. @$38-40 O.

for ref: do search in new gen sticky for fsm. Will answer your questions. O.

Valvoline synthetic. No issues and with noticeably slicker gear changes. O.

my pleasure O.

see cars101.com cargo measurements for 2014 Forester O.

Also make sure your green test connectors are not plugged in under the dash. This would make the fans cycle also. O.

I know the issue. I just use a 3/8 socket with a breaker bar or an adapter to the 3/8 from 1/2. Whichever was handier at the moment. Generally the 1/2 adapter so I can use my impact wrench to wind the bolts out. O.

For most drivers D & S are for bling purposes only. We don't ( can't) drive non turbo cars to get any real benefit. If you are in the mind set to just go for it, I'd go with reputable types from e bay sellers, ie: No unheard of brands. O.

use a 3/8 socket and ext with the adapter to 1/2 unless you have a 3/8 size breaker bar. O.

Replacement of betl etc is 10 yrs /100K mileage. Whichever comes first. Insofar as the tensioner, is yours one or two piece? If two piece, replace the roller only. O.

yep. you need 12 pt 12mm. O.

The head bolts are 14 and the others are 12. O.

Check to see if it has slipped timing. O.

To add. Replace the springs (dealer only part) for the throw out bearing and closely examine the fork for any cracks, if so replace it. O.

If you don't have it, download the FSM. Search the sticky above for FSM. When you look at the crank there should be a group of 5 letters, ranging from A to maybe D. Each letter represents a tolerance range. Attached is the engine spec sheet JIC. A is std. ,B is .03,C is .05 and D is.25. Should also be a group of 4 letters for the rod bearings. Haven't been able to decipher those. Unfortunately cranks are not generally all one size from the factory. You can buy separate main bearings from Subaru, but not rod bearings. If it is within your budget, would be easier to have them all machined to the same size. O. general description.pdf

The 99 2.2 uses an AFR O2 sensor in the front. If this is going bad, your mileage will suffer. First tho, do the usual. Plugs are a must. Then see how it does. O.

www.cars101.com O.