ocei77

Seemed odd to me also. The second dipstick is exactly the same and no ,they aren't bent. Can only surmise that way it is inserted makes it take a bend so that at the end it leans against the tube. I lubed the handle end but it was still tight and with the limited room to pull, just took the easy out. The Foz link in Busted.... no longer loads. I tried . O.

Bought a 98 Forester for a daughter and swapped a 2.2 I had in. Swap went easy enough. I've searched, many places, but cannot find a fsm for the Forester. DTC says circuit fault with TC lockup solenoid as in grounded or open circuit. Removed T pan, not dented . Was beginning to go crazy trying to diagnose with no specs. Then I noticed the dip stick was touching the tube leading from the solenoid. Checked for continuity and sure enough grounded. Cleaned pan, etc. Resealed and prayed. Cleared code and started. Yes, no more CEL ! The dip stick is too long. My solution. Cut a second dipstick to keep the tube closed and will leave the full length in the trunk storage compartment for check purposes. just thought I'd share. O.

Plain gas. O.

You can try reverse tracking. Go to : http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/ See what years use the same part number and then search salvage parts. O.

Have seen the suggestion of using a small paper clip being inserted slowly to push the pins down,so they are not catching the key, allowing it to be removed. O.

The engine gasket kit includes those O rings. I've used a 5/8 in wood dowel to drive out the wrist pin. It usually leaves the second ring in. O.

The other one. The curved side goes to the oil pan, it flattens some on install. Hence its called a crush washer. Can be reused at least once. O.

Further down the line after 2nd cat. Tucked up. Easier visible from driver's side. The connector is well wrapped in protective stuff. O.

You are asking a lot from a busy counter person, for a size that is not known. Since our belts are designed to go around the PS pulley, you have to measure around both pulleys with a flexible tape and get a belt a little larger so you can get it over the pulleys and still be able to tension it. Don't be surprised if your first try is not successful and they won't accept a return. Go to a Gates or other belt mfg site and try to narrow size down. O.

^+1 o.

Depends on how you look at it. The front of the switch is pushed down for down. You can either pull up on the front part or down on the rear part. This is standard. O.

There is a small metal tube that goes from the BPT(back pressure transducer) that feeds the EGR. This gets blocked by carbon buildup. Clean with a stiff thin flexible wire and carb cleaner. Alternatively you can remove pipe ( use PB) and soak in gas, 12mm bolt and has a fitting similar to AC. O.

Not 90 loose. But 90 tight after the poundage settings. reread the sequence in the manual. O.

Supposed to be two 90 turns on each after that. ie one set of 90 (all bolts)then start the other set. O.

Water pump. If close to t belt time, might as well replace all. (T belt, idlers,pump and check and reseal oil pump) O.

Is the lower radiator hose hot or barely warm when the temp starts to rise? O.

Plumping supply. Good auto supply stores, etc. O.

You don't need brackets, use the ones you have. A one man bleeder would be good.(the simple one, just a hose and valve on end) Make sure you remove the pins, clean and relube. Antiseize on the bolts. Should be good to go. O.

With my amateur knowledge, I concur! O.

a come along on a chain around a beam will give you the lift capabilities you need. O.

There are plastic hinges at the bottom. The box has to be rotated to about 90 deg to clear them to lift off. O.

Thanks O.

Am in the process of replacing a heater core in a 96 OB. Once you remove the dash, there is a cross brace that stiffens the body, plus. Where it is attached to the tranny tunnel, there are 4 "reverse torx screws". They look like a regular torx, but they have a pin in the middle requiring a special torx . I have called my local dealer and they don't know the exact size of this screw. Anyone? Also, the replacement heater cores( aftermarket) do not come with the pipes that go through the firewall. Again, the parts man at the dealer doesn't know if they separate from the body, for the dealer sells it as a complete housing unit. Do the pipes separate from the core body? And, no I don't have one in hand to check. Thanks in advance. O.

Do a search under any vendor site and I'm sure you'll see replacements O.

access is by an oval panel behind passenger rear seat. May have to lift carpet up. Tilt seat forward, not sure if can be seen right away,but it's there O.