ocei77

I bought a set of pin punches (IIRC 5/16 is the szie needed). Cut a 1"square piece of wood stock (any would do) about 16" or so long., drilled a hole 2" deep and slightly smaller than the shank into it. Inserted punch and used it to knock pin out from top. If I need to do it again, I'll do something similar. O.

Did a 97 2.2 swap auto to 98 2.5 DOHC auto and the starters are different. O.

Everyone's market is different. As suggested check other areas. Here in the NE, waay overpriced. The major question is how many of the std maintenance items have to be replaced after purchase? Things such as struts, ball joints,worn bushings,bearings etc. O.

Live and learn O.

Saw that before in one of your previous posts, but there's no way you can do this with the engine in the car. O.

There is an access hole below the throttle body. A plastic tab covers it (which you may not get to sit properly on replacement. I just left mine off) Hidden behind the PCV hoses and the IAC valve (if yours is on the block). You have to remove the air box. You then have to turn the crank til one of the slots in the flex plate appears (assuming you have an auto, if not just find the teeth) and put the bar there. Make sure you angle it so that it does not smash the sensor as you tighten the bolt. O.

spray undercoating is what I would use. O.

Never thought of that. Great idea. But thankfully, this not my vocation., so I don't see a lot. O.

Get new clips from dealer for bearing. If the engine is hard to separate, I just use a bottle jack against a 2x4 on firewall and the piston against the engine where the lift bracket is. Saves many choice words and trying to get something in between the two. While there if you have the old style separator plate, change it. You don't have to lift the engine completely out of the bay. Just forward enough to access what is needed . O.

Ok, it seems both dips were slightly bent. Not really seen by eye. Got another from a local yard and no contact, so she is good. Wasn't bent in swap though, as it was never removed. PM me if you find any Fozzy fsm parts. Thanks in advance. O.

Seemed odd to me also. The second dipstick is exactly the same and no ,they aren't bent. Can only surmise that way it is inserted makes it take a bend so that at the end it leans against the tube. I lubed the handle end but it was still tight and with the limited room to pull, just took the easy out. The Foz link in Busted.... no longer loads. I tried . O.

Bought a 98 Forester for a daughter and swapped a 2.2 I had in. Swap went easy enough. I've searched, many places, but cannot find a fsm for the Forester. DTC says circuit fault with TC lockup solenoid as in grounded or open circuit. Removed T pan, not dented . Was beginning to go crazy trying to diagnose with no specs. Then I noticed the dip stick was touching the tube leading from the solenoid. Checked for continuity and sure enough grounded. Cleaned pan, etc. Resealed and prayed. Cleared code and started. Yes, no more CEL ! The dip stick is too long. My solution. Cut a second dipstick to keep the tube closed and will leave the full length in the trunk storage compartment for check purposes. just thought I'd share. O.

Plain gas. O.

You can try reverse tracking. Go to : http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/ See what years use the same part number and then search salvage parts. O.

Have seen the suggestion of using a small paper clip being inserted slowly to push the pins down,so they are not catching the key, allowing it to be removed. O.

The engine gasket kit includes those O rings. I've used a 5/8 in wood dowel to drive out the wrist pin. It usually leaves the second ring in. O.

The other one. The curved side goes to the oil pan, it flattens some on install. Hence its called a crush washer. Can be reused at least once. O.

Further down the line after 2nd cat. Tucked up. Easier visible from driver's side. The connector is well wrapped in protective stuff. O.

You are asking a lot from a busy counter person, for a size that is not known. Since our belts are designed to go around the PS pulley, you have to measure around both pulleys with a flexible tape and get a belt a little larger so you can get it over the pulleys and still be able to tension it. Don't be surprised if your first try is not successful and they won't accept a return. Go to a Gates or other belt mfg site and try to narrow size down. O.

^+1 o.

Depends on how you look at it. The front of the switch is pushed down for down. You can either pull up on the front part or down on the rear part. This is standard. O.

There is a small metal tube that goes from the BPT(back pressure transducer) that feeds the EGR. This gets blocked by carbon buildup. Clean with a stiff thin flexible wire and carb cleaner. Alternatively you can remove pipe ( use PB) and soak in gas, 12mm bolt and has a fitting similar to AC. O.

Not 90 loose. But 90 tight after the poundage settings. reread the sequence in the manual. O.

Supposed to be two 90 turns on each after that. ie one set of 90 (all bolts)then start the other set. O.

Water pump. If close to t belt time, might as well replace all. (T belt, idlers,pump and check and reseal oil pump) O.