ocei77

Have only had to replace about three coils on BE/BL. Used NGK for one, oem for the others. No problems with either. O.

The 98 IOB has drums. O.

I would look hard at your water bypass pipe. It is a thin tube that goes from the water pump to a heater hose with a t that goes to the throttle body. You can get a pinhole especially at the t junction and if small will only leak under pressure. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_14/cooling_system/ O.

If you have enough of a stud for the ez out to grab, do it. You'll be able to apply more pressure than with a broken stud extractor. PB and heat surrounding area. O.

once all the bolts are out and the engine mounts either unbolted or free of frame, I've always used a bottle jack against a 2x4 on the firewall and the lifting hook to separate a stuck engine. Has worked whenever I had to resort to it with no problems. O.

It just may be trying to adjust to the denser WI air. Still running as if it's in CO. I'd try a reset and then test again. O.

x acto knife or similar to cut rubber. Or even a hack saw blade. O.

Yes to an anticorrosove here. The solution I've found with this and similar is to use a bottle jack against wood on the firewall and some strong point on the engine. Has never failed me yet. O.

A google will turn up a lot, but: O2 sensors are an emissions item. They check for how much unburned fuel is in the stream by relating it to how much free O2 there is. Some Subys use two or more to monitor this. Your IOB only has 1 sensor and it reads a value which is compared with what is stord in the ECU. If it goes above this set value, it adjusts timing, usually leaning the mixture, to get the result back within limits. You can "fool" the sensor by using a spark plug non fouler. It's basically just an extension which moves the sensor further out of the stream, reducing what it reads, thereby bringing it within paramaters(hopefully). A search for non fouler will explain what has to be done to make the unit usable for this deed. There is nothing to clean in a sensor, AFAIK. It reads hot exhaust gases, tho it may be possible to get coated. A clogged cat would surely evidence itself in loss of power and at the extreme, be cherry red after running. You can unhook the exhaust manifold and other than the noise tell if there's a major difference in throttle output. The sensor can be removed easily, with just an open end to hold the O2 bung on the cat (in case it has been weakened by rust) and either a socket wrench or a specific O2 socket. Idle the car for a few minutes to make it easier to remove. Bosch(the originators of O2 sensors) is the way to go IMO. Check out oxygensensor.com for prices or even RockAuto. O.

Regrets, my error. Missed the MT part. O.

If it has only happened once, I would not go tearing into things. If it does occur, Im sure the car is still under warranty. Let the dealer deal with it. O.

Probably because you have a swapped engine. The parts people are looking it up by the car, 96 Legacy OB, which came with a 2.5 which has the dual ports. Tell him you have a regular Legacy with the 2.2 and you'll get the right gasket. Keep this in mind for future parts. BTW it's just an exhaust manifold gasket. NA cars do not have an up pipe. O.

dupe post

Welcome. Are you sure its an EJ22? Was the engine swapped before, for std was an EJ25DOHC. Do a search and you'll get a list of things you can do preventatively. Mileage and known service history would be helpful. O.

+1^ I also think this is more likely the issue. I would take a good look at the endlinks,also. The std rear is @15mm, while your front sway is 20. If after ruling out all other things and you still want to change the handling, find a larger rear sway, but no larger than 19. On my IOB, I run 32psi F and 30 R. O.

Try over on LegacyGT.com. They have a Forester section. Post there. Should get some help. Also do a Google search. O.

unfortunately I can't assist with the tranny issues. The horn going off is part of the security system. There should be a sticker near the battery that tells you what to do whenever you disconnect the battery (same problem, just different cause for you). You follow the same procedure as programming a remote. If not there advise and we'll repeat procedure. O.

Try jumping a wire from battery to horn. If it works, it's probably your clockspring( roll connector). If not make sure the horn is grounded and try again. Still no, clockspring. Can't help with the blower. Here is link to FSM : http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ O.

One flush is good for now. Someone else will hopefully chime in on this, but when you used the driver to move it, something is not straight. I'd try putting it into what appears to be reverse and try to start. O.

Seems like regardless of shift lever, the car is not in neutral, so it will not start. I'd pull the trim piece around lever and spray a LITTLE PB on the linkages. Then keep working it until it loosens up. It has to go into real neutral or park, then you can start with the other issues. Flush the cooling system ,especially the radiator and burp. O.

Look at the metal tag on drivers side strut area. It will tell you exactly which version of the EJ 25X you have. Probably a 253. O.

that code probably only worked because the dollar value of the order was over $100. For any online order before you submit, google coupons for that vendor and you'll see what may be applicable. O.

Here is link to fsm http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/1997_Legacy_FSM/ O.

If you have a remote, try reprogramming first. There should be a valet button down by the OBD port. In my case (98IOB), the button itself was missing and the wires were just hanging loose. I just used a nail to short it. Hold the button for 15 secs. The doors should cycle three times. After the 3rd time, release button and push the lock button on remote. This programs the remote. If more than one,hit lock button on others before 15 secs. passes. This may help. Before, mine would just alternately lock or unlock, even when driving. O.

Best to use a scanner. If not unplug the battery, press brake to discharge any residual, wait a few minutes and reattach. If you have keyless remote, you may have to reset the unit. try turning key to on position before reattaching. Otherwise, use the valet button, which should be near the OBD plug. Open driver door,hold valet button in for 15 secs. The doors will lock and unlock three times. Release valet and press lock button on remote. This programs that remote. If you have more than one, just press the lock button on it within 15 secs of the last unit. O.