ocei77

When you cleaned it, did you remove the plastic electrical housing? If not, that is where the magnetic portion of the wheel is hidden that controls the air. It has to rotate freely. O.

1507 is your idle air control valve. Needs a thorough cleaning. Do search here and you will find things to look for, how to clean and how to deal with the brass screws that hold it on Generally you will have a wavering idle, up and down after a few minutes of running. O.

It is a by feel only job. And yes a real PITA. All the air stuff has to be off to allow you to lean in and use a 14mm ratcheting wrench to loosen /tighten. I used a thin piece of wood as a better peace of mind thing while working. Starting the threads was always the worst for me. O.

The rear main goes in just a tad below flush. Do not seat it as far as it will go. O.

Disagree. I have replaced three O2 sensors on different cars and I used Bosch (the originators of oxygen sensors btw) and have never had a problem. Unfortunately I can't help the op with his issue, but the Bosch sensor is not the problem. O.

Here.Title says 05 but is the same. http://www.bustedfingermotorsports.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=210 Inside it says 04 but that is Euro date. O.

Here is link to fsm http://www.bustedfingermotorsports.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=173#p478 Have fun. O.

yes, access to the piston clips for #3 and 4 pistons. O.

Using the spacer will require you to make some rigging of the EGR tube. Be prepared. O.

I've personally owned 3 Legacys, 97,04 and 07. None of them gave me any more trouble than the usual maintenance issues. I also have a 98 and 99 Impreza Outback and still no real issues. I just think you have a neglected 16 year old car that is showing its lack of care. O.

Have only had to replace about three coils on BE/BL. Used NGK for one, oem for the others. No problems with either. O.

The 98 IOB has drums. O.

I would look hard at your water bypass pipe. It is a thin tube that goes from the water pump to a heater hose with a t that goes to the throttle body. You can get a pinhole especially at the t junction and if small will only leak under pressure. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_14/cooling_system/ O.

If you have enough of a stud for the ez out to grab, do it. You'll be able to apply more pressure than with a broken stud extractor. PB and heat surrounding area. O.

once all the bolts are out and the engine mounts either unbolted or free of frame, I've always used a bottle jack against a 2x4 on the firewall and the lifting hook to separate a stuck engine. Has worked whenever I had to resort to it with no problems. O.

It just may be trying to adjust to the denser WI air. Still running as if it's in CO. I'd try a reset and then test again. O.

x acto knife or similar to cut rubber. Or even a hack saw blade. O.

Yes to an anticorrosove here. The solution I've found with this and similar is to use a bottle jack against wood on the firewall and some strong point on the engine. Has never failed me yet. O.

A google will turn up a lot, but: O2 sensors are an emissions item. They check for how much unburned fuel is in the stream by relating it to how much free O2 there is. Some Subys use two or more to monitor this. Your IOB only has 1 sensor and it reads a value which is compared with what is stord in the ECU. If it goes above this set value, it adjusts timing, usually leaning the mixture, to get the result back within limits. You can "fool" the sensor by using a spark plug non fouler. It's basically just an extension which moves the sensor further out of the stream, reducing what it reads, thereby bringing it within paramaters(hopefully). A search for non fouler will explain what has to be done to make the unit usable for this deed. There is nothing to clean in a sensor, AFAIK. It reads hot exhaust gases, tho it may be possible to get coated. A clogged cat would surely evidence itself in loss of power and at the extreme, be cherry red after running. You can unhook the exhaust manifold and other than the noise tell if there's a major difference in throttle output. The sensor can be removed easily, with just an open end to hold the O2 bung on the cat (in case it has been weakened by rust) and either a socket wrench or a specific O2 socket. Idle the car for a few minutes to make it easier to remove. Bosch(the originators of O2 sensors) is the way to go IMO. Check out oxygensensor.com for prices or even RockAuto. O.

Regrets, my error. Missed the MT part. O.

If it has only happened once, I would not go tearing into things. If it does occur, Im sure the car is still under warranty. Let the dealer deal with it. O.

Probably because you have a swapped engine. The parts people are looking it up by the car, 96 Legacy OB, which came with a 2.5 which has the dual ports. Tell him you have a regular Legacy with the 2.2 and you'll get the right gasket. Keep this in mind for future parts. BTW it's just an exhaust manifold gasket. NA cars do not have an up pipe. O.

dupe post

Welcome. Are you sure its an EJ22? Was the engine swapped before, for std was an EJ25DOHC. Do a search and you'll get a list of things you can do preventatively. Mileage and known service history would be helpful. O.

+1^ I also think this is more likely the issue. I would take a good look at the endlinks,also. The std rear is @15mm, while your front sway is 20. If after ruling out all other things and you still want to change the handling, find a larger rear sway, but no larger than 19. On my IOB, I run 32psi F and 30 R. O.