beataru

CSF did that to me, I was pissed, and they wouldnt give me a full refund, so I cancelled the payment. for once, credit card FTW I bought my 2 row from Performance Rad, it was in their store in 1 day, and in my car the day it came in. Only complaint. The little brace peice of metal in the middle popped off the bottom, oh well. Look up performance radiator and call them up, they will help you out!

And about the filters, Purolator and Wix make some of the best filters around. And if nothing else is available, I will get a mobile 1 filter, they feel beefy, but the price is a bit much. However the price of an engine... is a bit more than a $15 mobile 1 filter.

Ok ladies, since you are all waiting so impatiently... Jonathan and I are getting the car tuned, this thing under load is purring like a v150 (thats right something with 150 cylinders) ive never had my car so smooth under load, I expect to have the car legal and ready to rock within a month or so, hopefully sooner, but we all know how that goes :-\ And then comes the videos, I am have some megasquirt woes. at first Warmup enrichment along with my CTS was just freaking out a little bit, but now the thing is on constantly. Sooo DIY is gonna have to help me out with that. Im sure they will. anywas, more updates to come. Oh and the car has been washed, first time in 6 months.

I know it sounds crazy but I actually like the fel-pro ones. My stock subaru ones blew out on me and if any of you remember, started my ea-82 woes. Pulled studs new TWE header, and finally megasquirt 2 later, Im just getting this thing close to going on the road. Heres the fel-pro part number MS 92996

That can happen super easy, That doesnt sound stupid to me.

Speaking of that, is subaru starting to drop off the support for GL-s and the like? I went both to 1stsubaru and subarugenuine, they have new catalogues and have nothing for my car anymore. Oh yeah, and I drove the car around the block, while my bro in law tunes it. Great fun! the car sounds pissed off for some reason.

So far so good, I think my coolant temp sensor is freaking out, but the ms doesnt care about it for anything except warmup, so that can wait a bit. I finnaly got the thing to stop running super rich, and its idling halfway decent now.

Have you checked for Vaccum leaks, and Have you checked for exhaust leakage, from the heads to the turbo? When I blew out exhaust gaskets on my blue car, I thought I blew the freaking thing up, it ran so bad!

This just in, I posted this on nasioc when the usmb was down, but anyways... my Scoobie is running on MEGASQUIRT II yay for me, its definately not to the driving point, but I was Soooooo fed up with the sensor troubles that my car is having... Right now its belching out thick nasty black smoke, because the things idling at 8.8:1 gotta tend to that! I cant belive that my car is running on something that I soldered together, well I can, but its difficult. I will keep updates posted, not that any of you are on the edge of your seats for the next update...

Update Time! How much do you have now?

The question is not can it take 200 horses, because yes it can. The question is how long, and you can extend its longevity by being nice to it. Power doesnt kill things, dumping the clutch, slamming the gears, and being mean does.

I do hate wings, but that picture is not nearly as bad as that Diamond edition wagon picture that was on here a while ago. Anyone remember that thing? It was riceeed OUT.

93? Hmph We only have 92. Shocks? PEGS? 93 Octane? LUCKY!

In between the ALT and the A/C compressor about 4 inches down. its the little pulley to the right of the crankshaft pulley (big one) when your standing in front of the car looking in at the engine.

Well once it gets done I will post pics of what I am doing to it. Nothing fancy just slightly elaborate and time consuming. And hopefully a step in the right direction.

Mine had A clogged cat, and the only way I figured this out was I took my o2 out and drove it, and all of a sudden I had boost once again. Now if you have a boost gauge or not would be easiest, but you should notice a difference in hesitation. However the stumbling sounds like you may have a vacuum leak, or a weak coil. Does it stumble like it wants to buck you out of the car, or just hesitate slightly, kinda like a soft revlimiter.

You may be able to use an automatic center punch after spraying the bolt with parts blaster, basically you push it down and make it snap in the direction that you want to go, usually this will work, but its alot easier with the larger bolts. I would give anything a try before commencing with drillage.

Thats why you put more hp in a subaru and then rock the rain, snow, or ice. Although Ice is preeeety scary even with awd, especially fresh black ice.

Mine does, but now im confused whats edm England domestic market?

Why doesnt it have an o2 sensor?

well, i have seen this, if you put about a tablespoon of (this is the part i cant remember) Brake fluid, or power steering fluid (not atf) into your oil it will cause the seals to swell and possibly stop the leakage, now I have seen this work but only for rear main seals, since there getting absolutely hammered with oil, I have no clue if it will work. remember all brake fluid and powersteering fluid is, is hydraulic fluid. granted brake fluid is evil if it touches you or paint or anyother living thing. Ooh and on the rockauto thing. I prefer the felpro kit, because it comes with gaskets and grommits YAY. (also if you hurry the grommets by them selves are on a closeout price) although not now that i posted this.

heres how I have learned how to flush a car properly, now if any of you nazis say im going to crack a head doing this your wrong . Take out the thermostat and replace the housing, disconnect the upper radiator hose from the radiator so that water can come out of it, and then fire up the engine, and using a hose at a moderate pace, keep the radiator full and monitor the ammount of water coming out of the engine, if its really really really slow to a trickle, you could have a waterpump thats impellers are gone. then do this until your water runs clear (note: this is after you have been running a flushing compound through it for some time). then replace the thermostat and filler up with a very nice either 50/50 to 65/35 coolant to water ratio. and drive on.

I did this on a 1998 2.5 rs and a 1991 SPFI FWD Loyale. it is possible, we got the pan off, but its not easy, you have to undo the motor mounts either where they mount to the engine, or to the crossmember, and then jack the sucker up, be sure to use wood or something so you dont crack anything. We used wood on the oilpan to jack it up as far as we possibly could, and then jammed 2x4s into both sides of the engine so that it would stay there and we fought a legendary battle to get the pan off, around the pickup. but we did it.

Its a good idea to replace the dryer and hoses, especially hoses, considering that some desicants dont like the different oil that r134a uses, but since you used ester its fine. however the hoses were a great idea to replace. I just wanted to make sure you didnt get some super wizbang deal!

bulb grease is dielectric grease, so that may help. Also about this retrofit kit, where did you get it from, because I see the price on subaru genuine and its 253.72. not horrible for cold ac, but its enough to make me wonder if you got a better deal somewhere.