Rooinater

need some pics, and you need to come up to washington and play with us in may!!

sweet!! i wanna see pictures!! you need to take some time off in early may and go wheeling and camping with us in washington!! what ever happened to waiting for a lift??

i boycotted it!! so i don't have any love for anything!! ba hum bug

as long as you do the pk 3" lift kit there is no shifting linkage problems. and it takes 8 hours and a little less if you have people that have installed them help. you live in washington so there's a bunch of them out there. and that's using non air tools too!!

they do. it just seems that they don't rust as much. our air up there isn't as stagnate with humidity and salt as say north carolina. where everything seemed to rust out.

yes voltage would sit through the fan. if the switch was on the ground side. the side coming from the batt. to the open will have voltage always there. the fan will not turn on till current starts to flow. voltage is a potential and also the motive force that pushes. it's voltage potential that always sits there. it just needs a ground for the circuit to complete and the current to start to flow.

yes and no. there's a couple other ones too that show the relation. but yes that's one way to look at it.

i'm not talking about a high increase in current. only small amounts. but enough to tax out that switch even more. if you want i'll get out the formulas for when you change resistance. even by minute amounts you will increase the current. wiring has resistance wether it's supposed to or not. they teach you not to worry about it. in classes. i remember my auto electronics courses. you assume that there is no resistance. but in reality there is some. i'm not saying it's gonna jump it sky high and fry it instantly. it will allow for more current and a little more heat. not tremendous but enough. to help tax out the switch. Resistance goes up = Amps go down = voltage stays constant Resistance goes down = Amps go up = voltage stays constant resistance goes down = amps stay the same = voltage will change i'll get the actual formulas for it if i can find them or need to.

you have to run longer wires all over. the actual degree of what you are doing is the same. the way i have the diag. it illiminates all of the stock wiring essentially. cause i don't really trust it. so it's not a cut and splice. the way it's wired right now you utilize a ground off the mountin bolts on the fans. only like 2 inches. otherwise you have to run a wire from there to the relay and to the switches. you can realy wire it any way you want. but this is a perfectly ok system. if you want i'll add that you can put the relays on the ground side of the fan. if i was working with an INS unit or an ADC or something to that complexity i might think about it. but even then if you look at all the wiring schematics for an av8b jet none of them i've seen so far that do not have the switches and relays before. sensors on a car you might want it switched on the ground side. but overall you are not gonna kill the fan easily. one of the main reasons i see that they actually use a ground for the switch. is because that's the easiest way to use a thermalswitch. unless you run power to your radiator and then out of it. using an insulator around the actual thermoswitch. inner conductor being power out and and outer conducter being power in. which would be a lot more complex. the way they have it is one gnd coming in sitting there. and when the semiconductor breaks down it grnds out on the radiator. it's the same design that they use in engine bay fire wire in the aircraft. breaks down gnds out and turns light on. it's just utilizing the thermal switch.

so you really like that lincoln locker?? they are a dream aren't they! i'm sorry it took so long for you to get it.

i play around with them 14+ hours a day. and even more when the gov't loves me enough to make me work even longer!! snowman- by lowering resistance you automatically increase the amperage. which can increase the heat on the switch. the more resistance in the wires the less amps that will travel through the switch. so matching the wires is a real good idea if not using a relay. as for making an indicator that's easy. find the 12v bulb you want to use. or colored indicator from radio shack. on the gound side of the switch splice in the indicator. that way when the circuit is completed you'll create a parrallel circuit and the light bulb will light up. when the switch is off no power will travel to the indicator

i really do hope you can make it mike. i haven't wheeled with you in a long long time!! so i'm hopping

yes mine worked fine for a few months like that. then it fried out. it takes time. heat unless extreme does not destroy the switches right away. especially if its a high amp switch. it'll slowly break it down. if it's only used from time to time it'll work fine. but as soon as you start using it more often. it's not a good idea. you are asking for an electrical failure.

no, by wiring a switch straight into it you are asking for some trouble. not major trouble but your switch to open up and not work. or worse yet short across and always be on no matter switch position. is it going to kill you no. is it gonna wreak a switch yes it can. do to running high amps through a toggle switch. they tend to fry switches. over time and prolonged usage. other than that it's fine. that's why using a relay on a higher current system is a preffered method to do this. relays hold the current a lot better. by using a low current sytem to use the switch in. so that the switch does not fry. and using a relay to close the switch and handle the grunt of the current running to the fan. it's not as straight forward but better for overall longevity and current handling. i've fried 30amp switches on these fans. but not any 30amp relays. do to the way they are designed. Yes, motors, switches and relays are electronics, they are part of electrical systems, but are electronics. Sorry bushbasher. i got 2 screen names mixed up

it won't make that much of a differance with voltage spikes. either way you are going to ensue voltage spikes. cause either way you put that you are going to be having all the voltage hit the fans. by wiring all relays to the grounds. you are actually complicating the actual wiring itself. due to having to run more wires. these are electric motors not sensative little electronics. almost all of the components in the aircrafts i work on are switched or relayed before a load. and you are talking about thousands and thousands of dollar computers. i think if there is such a problem with it the whole entire aircraft would not be wired that way. either way you are throwing all the voltage at the fans. the only differance is the voltage on the relay. but no matter what the amperage on the relay will be the same. beings the fact relays are rated at amps for a reason. cause that's the main reason they break down, open or short across. a little note on how electricity works. voltage is eaten up by the resistance. it should be to approximately 0 by the time it reaches ground at the end of a circuit. amps stay the same in a circuit all the way to the ground. amps create heat which heat kills electronics. hence why we use relays. if we didn't use relays you'd fry those little toggle switches to kingdom come. cause the heat from the amperes will fry them. if you need me to post up the naval and civilian publications of electricity basicis and formulas i will. but i hope i need not.

we all know austin, we all know.... yep you might want to spray down with fresh water to get all that salt off your undcarriage.

not positive about straight bolt ups. is that what you are asking?? if you are asking about being modded in. yes you can. The bucket seats in my car aren't even subaru. i found them in prestine condition in a honda. but they weren't stock in there either... so who knows where they originally came from. but i made cross brackets and lift kits. so that they don't sit as low as regular ea81 seats. and welded it all into the seat rails.

you realize mike you have to come to the get together in early may. no exzemption chits!! you have to come unless a dire emergency has come up. and i mean complete emergency. so ha :moon:

oh god!! someone is gonna be having some rusty undercarriage and parts.... but looks like austin was at it again wasn't he. looks like you had a lot of fun!

both the diagrams are ground switched. the switches are not on the power side they are on the ground side. so i don't know what you mean. please clarify. cause both those diagrams are considered ground switched.

lift it! it'll help even bigger tires fit under it...... you could make it up at some of the power line trails at reiter. just can't go up lake isabele with us.

the diagram i drew is actually really simple. i used 2 30 amp relays for the reason of not really killing relays. all the wires are tied into a wire bundle across the lower portion of the fans.alongside the battery. the relays are next to all the other relays by the battery. and the rest of the wires are tucked along the firewall with the window washer lines. under the fuel pump and into thecab via the little wiring grommet on the drivers side. very clean. and you can route them almost invisible if you wanted to. yes the way you have yours sean is perfectly fine for how and where you use it. my car always had a problem of getting very hot. so i need them on all the time from time to time. extra cooling in warm weather. i'll find where i have that diagram. and i'll put it on there too. if i may i'll add that diagram to my web page if you don't mind. tell me if you do and i'll remove it. thanks. good luck!

well... i wrote up and drew a diagram. So that you can wire your cooling fans for a 3 position switch. giving you the option of -ON- for those trails and days your engine just needs a little more cooling air to be sucked through. or those hard days on the trails in the hot weather. -OFF- for water crossings and deep water forgings. to help eliminate the possibility of breaking a fan blade and putting it through the radiator. also to help keep the splash down on the engine or near the intake. -AUTO- for your day to day usage. the really great part of how this diagram has you wire it is. you never will have a dead battery cause you left the fan in the on position. by running it off of the coil to activate the relays. it causes it not to be able to work unless the key is in the start or on position. hope you enjoy or this helps you out. let me know what you think. http://www.westcoaststompers.com go to subaru modifications, then to the fan modification. too lazy to link it

Hell yes!! i converted went i went with bigger tires. now i won't drive one without on the trail. or own it at least. Subafly's was the first i drove with power steering and he sold me on it, without trying!

yeha i'm going to have to use a differant style bracket than that too. just cause i don't have the a/c bracket anymore.so i think i'll be cutting and welding the steel mounting brackets. in order for it to work.