Rooinater

if he's only putting an azified lift on. he doesn't need to get another daily driver. they are no where near as complicated as a tcase lift. a tcase lift takes a lot of fabrication. ozified's are bolt on lifts. and take afew hours to put on. i wouldn't say the ea82's are gutless at all with the 27" tires. just put a weber on it if it has a carb. if it's fuel injected leave it be. they have enough to go anywhere you are planning on going. mine was a daily driver for a long time. till i starte hitting the more hardcore trails i didn't have any problems. reliability... the lift don't affect that much of any. hell my car drove from gig harbor, wa to the clearwater national forest in idaho about 800 miles one way. it made it there and back with no problems full of camping gear. then it made a trip from marysville, wa to yuma arizona,1500 miles. with a trailer loaded with about 1500 or so pounds of my junk. the only thing that had a problem was the trailer's wheel bearing. then it also made a return trip up to eugene oregon to get the new mods. it made it there just fine. and the only problem was on the way back about a 1000 miles down the road back to yuma. a bearing i had suspected of slowly becoming bad went out. so if they aren't reliable.... i don't know what to tell you. i take that thing on long trips all teh time. and the time the bearing went out it had 31" tall tires that were not balanced... oops...

nice car! i like it! Jared

haven't had a huge problem being flamed there yet... keep it straight to the point and don't mention the vehicle...

uhhh... they sell tractor tires for 14 and 15 inch rims... no need to create them... they are a little closer to street legal too....

http://www.funtreks.com/ i buy these books. they are very well put together. i have arizona, utah, and southern cali back in my barracks rom in the USA. so i can research all that back there. i'm also gonna buy a couple more for norhter cali, and there's another company that makes some more fr san bernadino area. lots of god info and ph#'s and address to find out more info.

the standard 28" tsl's are probably the cheapest. they get flat spots after sitting for a little while though. but as soon as the tire warms up they go away... the ssr's wear a lot faster but don't sound like a B52 bomber going down the road, like the tsl's. check my web site under subaru mods, then tire sizes... those were all based on pug rims. but it has a couple reviews by members and some places to find info. Jared

they definately are fun. and slowly become an obsession....

GD was talking about hummer stuff awhile ago. but i haven't seen anyone do it yet. it's only a matter of time. as for the use of another irs in the back. i'm just trying to get rid of it. clearance is nice... but riding like a tank in the arizona rocks... isn't very nice. so i'm just waiting to get back on us soil. my lil' roo is getting a yota rear axle. then another project coming to.

if you are planning on using it for offroad. which i'm guessing not too much. since you are planning on dragging it. you can look through the pirate board. there's a lot of info on triangulated 4 links for offroad and other uses.

if i remember corectly it's a differant bolt pattern on the flywheel. and there was another reason i couldn't use it. i know there was a reason you had to use the 2wd... and everybody else i know that did the mod had to use the same setup. it's been a few years since i did it. you also have to make or use a differant mount for the clutch cable inside the car. cause you have to use an ea81 clutch cable and it mounts differant in the car.

i'm not trying to make you look like a baby that doesn't know anything. i'm sorry i think living in iraq is just getting to my head at the moment. my point is you don't need toput 29's on to get the beefier tires. cooper discoverer stt tire do just fine with minimal cutting and still being able to turn. they are only a 26" tire. but they still have a decent mud terrain. and super swamper makes ssr's in a 27" tire size. which still will require a decent amount of cutting without lifts... but you'll still have steering. i am one that has a planned project. it starts in december when i get home. and then lil' roo goes up for sale. not trying to say you don't know anything. desert's getting to me. so i'm sorry if it came out that way. Semper Fidelis, Jared

it works just fine. there's no reverse rotation. i have the same tcase setup at the moment. but a new project is coming along when i get out of iraq... Qman if you look in the gallery has a solid rear axle. and mtsfabman (or something like that) has an xt with yota axles front and rear. have fun with it! my next one will get me banned from the board... hahaha... doubt it, but probably will push it... also can check my website below if you wish. it has some pictures there too. not much since the tcase mod... but when i get back i'll get a ton more. i just bought a 1000 dollar digi camera... pic happy!! Semper Fidelis, Jared

actually the way that subaru's are normally lifted. it's a body lift and the drivetrain stays where it is and the body gets moved up. so that drivetrain only gets higher with bigger tires. unless you have a tcase mod. then you suck the enging and tranny up into the body. and a 3 inch lift on a subaru doesn't make it much more top heavy either. but an 8 inch will make it a little heavier up top. i also think you miss the point of the lift. you say that it won't increase suspension travel. well no not in the sense of with stock tires. but it will increase the suspension movement you can actually make with larger tires. cause with those 29's all you will do is rub throughout the suspension movement. also since you will have the ability to have the tires actually move up and down with a lift. instead of stuffed in the fender and cut the hell out of the tire. making the life of the tire offroad near zero... you can remove yur sway bar. increasing travel and let your suspension adjustments all the way down giving you a lot softer and more flexible suspension. with my 27's and a lift, with all the suspension down and and sway bar removed. i had about 20 inches or so of travel total. think that a pk lift won't help. but you won't go anywhere alot of us go without a lot more damage to your tires and your body. it's amazing how much even a 3" lift helps you clear your boady over obstacles. but once again what the hell do i know... i've never proven any of those theories... just my 2 cents and what i've gained from wheeling subaru's.

if it already has the sidemount starter and flywheel. it already has the setup. it's just a bolt to pretty much after that... but your still gonna be using the 4speed and have the clutch slipping. but it's still a decent starting setup coupled with a weber, 4/3 pk lift and 27" super swamper ssr's! that's what mine was. i got it to go everywhere the rest of the hp could. the only trail i didn't try was upper 311 at evan's creek. but the reason i didn't was i blew an axle and didn't have a spare. but no turning back for me. it only get's more modified from here on out.the weber is a definate need with that ea71. all the power is in the higher end, not as much in the lower end.

hey i was thinking... i should be back in washington again around christmas and the new years... not sure when exactly... but seeing if we could get a gathering of some sort going. i won't personnally have my car. but if it's a snow run i could probably steal my dad's subaru... or i'd suggest a BBQ... but washington will probably be a little cold for that... just thinking. otherwise i'll make the usual rounds, erics, kens and maybe tex's work. then boarding with subafly if i'm lucky! don't know, but let me know what you think. your probably all too busy around that time of year. Jared

no 5 speed sorry... had the setup with the 4 speed. you have to use the 2wd bellhousing with sidemount starter out of the later ea body styles along with it's clutch and flywheel. which makes the weakest link the clutch in offroading. especially in deep water combined with mud and also in the bigger rocks. the clutch loves to slip on steep inclines also. but put a good weber on it and real good driving skills and you'll keep up with the ea81's. but that clutch set is it's weakest link it's only 7 inches instead of nine. notice what i've gone to instead... not my first choice, actually i'll never go back to that setup. i replaced 2 clutches in 3 years... do to the fact it was a heavy offroader. Jared

sorry but no. you can't get the clutch for the 5 speed. you have to use a little 2wd clutch to make a 4 speed d/r work. been there done that. if iremember correctly the flywheels are differant. but you could check the size and the wholes. but i f i remember correctly when i did mine you could only use the 4 speed. because you had to use the 2wd side starter bellhousing, the 2wd flywheel and clutch pack. i believe it was the 1984 ea71 clutch pack i had to use. the 4 speed would be your best bet. but an ea81 engine would be better. larger clutch surface. that was my biggest problem offroading that 1600 i had. 27" tires and the clutch liked to slip alot, if you didn't have a lot of momentum. Jared

yeah you could make them.... but why?.. if your going to spend the money on tires why not shell the money out for a lift. you'll get better suspension movement without rubbing, better offroad clearance and ability. why does everyone not want to lift their cars and only put tires on them. personally they look funny that way and they are a lot less practical. but hell what do i know right? i've never seen these things offroad... they are going to rub offroad almost positively... oh well... do what you need to, but i suggest you spend the little cost of a ozified lift... they are pretty cheap. make it look better, and help over all performance. also cut down tire rubbing. not to mention i wouldn't even use 29's without using a tcase... cause you'll have no gearing. which will hinder your offroading and street ability even more. but once again, hell i don't know anything about 4xing...................... Jared

very nice. hope it works well for ya! first test is to get really stuck and see if the clevis's pull out. mine are on there really well. have fun at the park.

definately looks sweet! and very fitting, how many lifts have you, bought, installed or helped install??

sweet! i have a bunch of trail gps fixes for up there too! i can't wait! with luck i'll have my new trail ready subie done... my dad has located a few possible tow rigs for me to buy when i get home... still locating a trailer though. Jared

Sweet!!! is she ready for moab in spring to early summer??? i might have my new suby by then... it depends which i have and when little roo gets back on her feet. if i have little roo II done, then little roo will be up for sell and the creation will go to moab. i'm sure lil' roo would love one last huraah! at moab... we'll see if i get leave...

well i've been researching that for a little while... i probably shouldn't share it yet. but here's what i've found so far. as real common heavy or not. pro's and cons... "NP 205/200 pros, pure beef, never break it with 35"s, fairly common, twinstickable, cons, heavy as hell, rumors of gear set but never happens. Dana 20/18 Pros, common, plently of lowrange options, twinstickable, no prob with 35"s cons, Need kit from AA to make it divorced, Toyota 4cyl Pros, beefy, tons of aftermarket support, lo range from 2.28- 5.0, cons, need kit form OTT to make divorced. Sami Pros, tons of after market gearing from stock to 8 to 1, common, divorced in stock configuration, cons, both outputs offset, 35s ok but starting to push your luck? Datsun 720 pickup pros, common in junkyard, divorced in stock configuration, cons, no aftermarket support, strength??, no gearing options" "Quote" overkiller's response to a post found on another board.

i'd love to run up at walker and lake isabele this spring... when my new subaru is done ... you should be able to make it fine. if a mildly lifted hatch can. your's might be a little tighter. but i know my wagon will make it. the new one will have little to no problem.

the best and longest lasting way i've seen it done and have used. (i'm sorry idon't have the pictures, some reason i can't bring my desktop to iraq.) thoroughly clean the oil out of the diff. preheat the spiders and that center shaft that runs between them. next tack the 4 spider gears together where they connect to each other. front and back. then do solid beads welding the spiders together. (that should be 8 total small beads.) next step, weld the gears to the center shaft inbetween the spider gears front and back. let diff completly cooldown at least a few hours. then thoroughly clean out diff. drive for awhile then change oil. i do not suggest welding to the carrier. the main reason why is the disimilar metals. all the welders i've talked to have said no. because the gears are a tool steel and the case is cast. not a strong hold. i've used a welded diff welded like the above mentioned. for a long time. then when i upgraded my car it went into erics car. so it's been around for over 3 years of hard abuse and nosign of giving out. turbone's old hatch, Subafly's hatch, and tex's hatch, all have the same style welded diff welded by the same welder. i put mine through hell and could not break the diff! just my .02, but what do i know. right?