Virrdog

EJ18 and EJ22 come in real close. But the differences are almost neglible besides displacement. Depends on how much you value efficiency vs. fuel economy. I personally don't think the power of the 22 overcomes the efficiency of the 18. EJ22T would be the very bestest turbo engine ever. Runs forever in stock form, strongest block ever, etc. (Ahem, also blows all EA turbo engines out of the water) All IMHO of course.

I agree with the "too stiff" problems being the transition from old struts to new. Your body acclimates to the busted ones. If GR2's are too stiff... put on some STi struts for a while and you will be begging for the very plush ride of the GR2's.

Very rarely is there a problem with diffs. And if it was, small squeeks it would not be... you would definitely know.

Hardly necessary. SS lines and pads like this make a world of difference. In stock form the cars don't go fast enough to warrant the added heat capacity of larger rotors. A higher operating temperature from the pad goes a loooong way. Plus most cars need to upgrade to rear disc brakes first.

Great for mountain drivers, too. This is an awesome pad that handles higher temperatures very well.

Under normal driving its 50/50. There is a center differential. The front end doesn't get more power until it starts to slip. When that happens the viscous coupling to the back heats up its fluid and starts to transfer more power rearward. Many variables to get an exact answer. Usually the answer is usually "enough", unless you get stuck . One factor that changes the maximum amount of limited slip action in the center diff is the condition of the viscous coupling (they can be worn out). Open differentials front and back. So it acts just like a 2wd drive car on both sides. If one tire spins it just spins faster with more power. When the overall speed difference of the front and rear is great enough it will activiate the viscous coupling mentioned earlier. This just tries to keep the power even front to back. It's not very complicated or active when it comes to power distribution but it provides plenty of traction 95% of the time. Rear limited slip differentials are easily found in other models though, it just has to match the final drive of your transmission.

You are going to get a couple dozen experiences and recommendations... There is no clear "right" answer and no one "best" oil. Whatever oil you choose, just don't wait too long to replace it. (And how long that is opens another can of worms...)

Well, that's cool. Its a shame its on the wrong side of PA, too far from Ohio. I'm now officially jealous.

Might want to check the regs, most hill climbs require a cage.

This guy leaves gems all over the internet... 5 year old created 5 main bearings Why not tune the intake to perfection? And this explains a lot:

Hitting bumps on one side of the car twists the anti-sway bar... while hitting a bump with both does not. You might try disconnecting that and see if anything changes.

That's what I have in my wagon. I did timing belt job + water pump for a hair under $100 for parts.

You guys don't know what you are missing... The GL saved the world :lol: :lol:

Glad you found it, you would have eaten through another set of tires in no time.

This keeps getting better: Painted SPFI Fuel Pump Fast ECU

You would need crazy looking wheels-tilting-into-the-wheel-well camber before it wore out the inside edge like that. That would definitely be noticeable from a casual glance.

Rear door not shutting quite right = frame slightly bent = time on frame rack = $$$ Hopefully it does not add up to more than 80% of the car's worth. If they try to total it, work it out with the body shop so you can do a repair contract. That way you get the maximum money and still get to enjoy your car afterwards.

This more than likely was caused by really bad toe-out in the alignment. Tires can be reduced to shreds within days if there is enough toe.

Whiteline is your friend for suspension stuff, if they make it... your car will have real benefit from it. And multi-port wet is the safest bet on NOS.

What kind of sloppy is the shifter? (Interesting question... ) Is it very vague in-between gears or does it have a lot of lateral movement while in gear or does it flop around in neutral? All can have different, but easy to fix causes. There might be bushings -missing- in the shifter, the centering spring might be long gone and it definitely needs a new tranny mount by now. Tranny mount is like a hidden jedi master trick for making your car feel better. Very few people do it, but its night and day difference - especially if you put in the Group-N piece. Its easy to do, you have more than enough skills to replace it yourself.

You just gotta watch, the strut top mounts are rotated differently on GC cars than the BC you are driving. Sometimes can throw the camber off or make it caster or some combination.

Aww, he strikes again. I check out his posts occasionally on Nasioc. They are very good for entertainment. They are mostly ignored with a couple quotes with a underneath it.

Just wondering why people are installing another shot-in-the dark stock one when a Whiteline piece can be had for the same price? I assume Whiteline makes a sway bar that fits the Outback.

STi suspension, as in struts/springs, up to '03 will fit. (I think '03 is the last year, might be '02). That is what I have on my car, you will need the front upper spring perches to match the new springs, everything else swaps over. You will have positive camber issues because the later STi's had a wider track. But overall it's worth it. You will need camber bolts for the back and possibly camber plates up front. It rides a little stiff from overdamping but is still daily driveable.

The pigtail has to be wired to fit our ECU connector. You can have it done for you if you don't want to bother. But its really not that hard (color combo on wire equals number in connector). Just troubleshooting if you get it wrong can suck. But this honestly is the only way to get legitimate power out of your car. Otherwise stick with exhaust and suspension.