86BRATMAN

^^^^ this is your answer.

It's a good idea to get an alignment after any sort of movement of the camber bolts. Not always necessary, but piece of mind. If I were in your shoes I would have one done in the near future, not sure what a front end alignment runs out there, but it's got to be cheaper than a set of tires and an alignment down the road.

It was the pistons that created the interference change.

you have to work it in from behind, thats pretty much all l remember of it.

About ten years ago I fitted a 4x6 on the drivers side of a brat dash by cutting up the bracket so it would fit and still hold the grill.

Definitely for the sake of your personal safety use something to keep that spring from flying when you do get the bottom loose.

I never can remember which year was the body change for them, I think you've corrected me on this before too is the sad part lol.

I guess these guys just have a hard time believing, I don't since I've seen it first had myself not that long ago. Dead strut and weak old spring, hell years ago I used a set of 1.5" lowering springs and new struts on a 98 legacy L that effectively raised the rear half an inch because the 200k mile oem suspension was absolute garbage.

Newbie is correct, 96 is the only year the 25d had hlas, they are hidden on the inside of the valve bucket. There are no shims on this particular ej25d. Burnt valve is a fairly safe assumption.

Screw salt, I noticed a tiny bubble starting on mom's 04 outback yesterday when I was visiting with her before work. So far my 97 is still relatively clean but it's only on its third east coast winter.

From what I've read over the years, even if it is a 94 the engine harness should plug into the body harness and work just fine. All the 95s I've laid hands on were obd2 but that's only a handful and it was a transition year so no guarantees. The only potential issue is a CEL from no egr which won't hinder performance, just be annoying on the dash.

It is not possible to do it without brackets, rotors, calipers and pads. Having done six or seven of these swaps in the last couple years I can verify it first hand.

All I will say, after 2 years working Ford parts is stay the heck away from the 5.4 and the 3.5 ecoboost they are both garbage.

They strut looks right to me, regular legacy would be about an inch shorter from spring perch to knuckle flange. They remind me of how my stock rear struts and springs looked when I got rid of them last summer. One was definitely on the verge of breaking a spring and was compressed about an inch more than the other just free standing. Same one had also puked all of its oil out like that one seems to have done.

I didn't see a cheaper clutch set when I was shopping for one for my swap. That is the kit I'll be running when I manual swap my L, and my friend has been running it for about a year in his 97gt. I will say this, he has a lightweight flywheel in his, and it revs quick and he's happy with it, but I feel he is experiencing accelerated clutch wear from it.

My fronts don't have a lower rubber cushion, well technically none of the 4 sets it's had on it have. I think I may have seen them on some of the newer subarus but I can't swear to it.

Models equipped with the feedback carb had an ecu, I've seen a couple of them in my days around these cars. Notvery ccommon in my neck of the woods.

The washer Texan is talking about is on the fronts, I've never ran across one on the rear. But he is spot on about the orientation, the rears won't go in the car of its not justright. I've found that standing over the strut as you put the top hat on works really well, the outer mount bolt should line up with the forward flange of where the strut bolts to the knuckle.

It's been about a year since I've had a set apart, but the lower end compresses against itself when the springs are installed, the top sits right on top of itself to give a flattish spot for the top hat to be secured. I learned that part the hard way when I was putting the forester springs on outback struts last winter. Also if you look at the paint marks on the springs the yellow dot is the lower one.

I hope these help.

That does not look right to me, at all. Flip the spring, then go back to work.

Legacy driveshaft as a whole is longer, by whatever the difference in wheelbase is. I can't say for certain if either half of it is the same, maybe someone else can chime in.

I've got all my old pics backed up on some cds somewhere, can't swear to where right now as we're in the middle of a remodel.

With those 16s you can use any wrx brake setup, even the 4 piston calipers from the 06/07 cars. That being the most expensive option, but any standard 02-05 wrx brakes will swap without any trouble, just get the matching calipers, brackets, rotors, and pads. I personally would stay away from the drilled rotors as I've seen them crack from heat around the holes, slotted are a decent upgrade as it allows for quicker cooling, but on a street car the difference wouldn't really be noticed. If you want a big front sway bar, the B9 Tribeca bar is a simple bolt in and we'll documented on the web. 96-99 outback rear bars is as simple as it gets for an upgrade out back. I'd recommend changing out the end links front and rear, along with the mount bushings before making the decision to swap the bars, in my 97 they were completely shot. New bushings really changed the dynamic of my car for the better.