Soutthpaw

Struts are oem only and about $200-300 each! there were just not enough of them to justify the making of aftermarket parts. I had an auto that I converted to stick and it was Fuel injected. the earlier ones were carbureted. Just lived with the crappy ride but good little car did 180miles round trip to work 10 times a month

According to my Alldata which I generally trust over a DIY manual, the timing for 85 86 are as follows 1781cc turbo 25* 1781CC MPFI 6* 86' 1781CC TBI 20 +/-2* 1595 & 1781cc 2v 8+/- 2*

Ok got it figured out. its all set now. Thanks. Also found that green connector which is under the dash on this model

yeah its GL10 and turbo 85 86 are 25* which is stupid cuz there is no 25* non turbo is 8*

I cannot seem the get the specified 20 degree BTDC timing on my 86 DL10 Turbo wagon. lining up the distrubutor I can get about 12 Degrees max and if i move the distributor one tooth I am at min of about 25 degrees. I have just put a new distrubutor and new timing belts on this engine too. If anyone has had the same problem or any ideas that would be great thanks DJ

Well I am in Colorado Springs area and there is a Suby Toyota wrecking yard in colorado springs but cant remember the name of it, I will have to drive by and look as for self serve yards there are 2 in town but I am sure there are more up near Denver. Maybe someone can give a list of them. if you are gonna do a ej25 then you are looking at $$ to get the parts. best bet is to get a wrecked one and buy it for parts. Remember Colorado is the #1 state for suby's and the auto wreckers know this so they snap them up fast. I just got a 86 GL-10 Turbo "not running condition" on craigslist. the guy had like 20 diff people email him the day he put up the listing. I got it cuz I offered him and extra $25 if he contacted me first.... hence you can see the demand here... got it for $200.... turns out it had broken timing belt. short in the coil pick up wires. and someone had screwed with the wiring under the dash something aweful. its running now, just gotta work the other bugs out of it... like fixing the air suspension. which I have narrowed down to either a bad height sensor in the left front strut or an intermittant computer fault

had my left front CV inner axle go out on my way through Arizona, go a new (not reman) axle from Checker auto parts for $94 US with tax. changed it in about an hour in their parking lot and finished the rest of my drive to CA.

Don't know what you are talking about, Sorry, I didn't even join this Board till after I bought the car!

WOW You got a great deal... you are on par with me and my 97 I got for $500 though I had to do some work on it after the guy had put it in a Ditch.. On the plus side I never would have done the custom bumpers etc and all the other goodies i plan on doing if I had dropped several grand on a car like this. I gotta do struts too. Advance auto has KYB's for under $400 for all four. thats my next purchase once I get the rear bumper and skid plates done.

They destroy the CV Joints, blow out the wheel bearings and tear up the rack and pinions on a regular basis.... From being a tech at a 4x4 shop I can tell you they eat the IFS up. even the Humvee's were having problems with the CV joints due to the angles

Well it's New Gen but I'll post it here anyway cuz its Cool. . Slide in winch to receiver hitch too It's my own creation... I'm in the process of doing the rear one now

Hella, They make a better light in my opinion. They do a lot of OEM lights, including the Subaru fog lights, PIAA is just a trendy marketing thing, and most accessory places will recommend PIAA due to a higher markup and profit than Hella. http://www.hella.com/produktion/HellaCOM/WebSite/HellaCOM.jsp

could be shorting your ABS wires somewhere that could cause both problems

If you keep getting the code after doing the sensor, you really need to see what the datastream is showing from the computer, it will tell you if you are running rich or lean.... rich will cause poor mileage, lean will cause the engine to run hot. if the catalytic converter is plugged it will cause back pressure and exhaust gasses will not clear the combustion chamber properly. again causing drivability problems.

I am in the springs, I am running 205/75R15's on my 97, you can see some pics here. http://www.subaruoutback.org/photopost/showgallery.php?ppuser=11416&cat=500&thumb=1 I am just about to start making a suspension lift for it. If you need work done on your Subaru or interested in a lift, PM me. Keep in mind when you go to larger tires, they may fit fine when on the highway but what you need to check is at max spring compression while turning. I had to remove my front mudflaps and hammer down the lower part of the seam in the rear of the wheel well to be sure i had no contact issues when off road. The only real reason to go with a 215/75/R15 is if you want a dedicated mud tire. a couple companies make a mudder in that size. also a 27x8.50LT15 will be about the same size. otherwise if you want a good AT tire, you can get a few AT's in 205 instead of 215's General Grabber AT2, BFG AT, Uniroyal Liberator AT (my tire) the bigger you go the more power and torque you sacrafice and the 1gens don't have a lot of that to spare like the Turbos and H6's

It's under the black center cover on the front of the engine Open the article link on this page http://endwrench.com/main.php?smPID=PHP::article_detail.php&&RECID=184

Just go to the ford dealer and buy a couple Powerstroke decals and stick them on your Sooobaru.... That should solve the problem.

205/75/15's (from Walmart) $58 each.. Had to remove front mud flap for clearance. also hammered down the seam just to be on the safe side Or the General grabber AT2's in the same size, basically the same tread as a BF goodrich AT and you can get them studded too http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=General&tireModel=Grabber+AT+2 here is a link to some nice pics of the AT2's on a Baja http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6139&highlight=at2 I was actually going to do the AT2's but the reason I went with the liberator is that I had them on my F250 and they worked well. second is that Walmart is everywhere, so if I get a flat or blowout somewhere i can probably get it replaced quickly at the nearest wal mart. lifetime balance and rotate for $7.50 a tire is a good deal too. with more agressive tires it is recommended to get them balanced every 5K miles.

I have to agree, the issue sounds like a crappy dealership rather than an issue with the subaru itself. you may be wise in advising people not to got to that dealer. I would also take you issues to SOA directly, in a Calm Professional manner. Lemon Law sounds like it can apply here too. But to claim that your experience with a bad Stealership means people should not buy a Subaru makes no sense at all. As for VW being more reliable than Subaru, I find that hard to swallow. what you indicate in your post is that the VW dealer was much more concerned with customer satisfaction that the subaru dealer... Get Real!!!

Many companies are now promoting the CVT yet Subaru was actually on of the first to use it back in late 80's in the Justy, long story made short. IT WAS A PIECE OF JUNK!!! i changed one over from auto to stick myself.

great video, love the Cow errr? Kangaroo Catchers on the front of a couple of those rigs.

There must be too many auto parts store employees on this board. Thinking one thing is the magic bullet to fix everything. One reason many technicians believe that auto parts stores shoud not be pulling codes from customers vehicles! here it seems there is a love for replacing the O2 sensor. Here is what you need to do. Take it to a decent repair shop and have them do a drivability diagnosis for poor fuel economy. 1996 and newer vehicle use the ECU to control fuel and spark based on a variety of inputs. You are being misled into probably buying and replacing known good parts. when you reset an OBDII system what you are doing is erasing the LTFT data... (Long Term Fuel Trim) you also have STFT (short TFT) the car takes time to relearn thess values based on the driving. However they do not become set in stone... they are constantantly updating as you drive. all you are doing by trying to erase the stored data is destroying useful information that a good technician could use to diagnose your problem. That or you need a good scan tool, and the knowledge of how to use and interpret its data. a scan tool is much different from a code reader. as well as a lot more $$$

If they are SOHC then junk yard self service is your best bet. you are looking about $25 each piece at the dealer

HAHA!!! well the space is there too put a winch but that is actually an 8K Milemarker winch which is sold by Harbor freight tools under there own branding. I used to work in a 4wd shop and can tell you the specs are identical as well as the internal parts. I made it removeable because it also fits my F250... And its amazing the lack of common sense when it comes to winch placement. as we spend most of the time going forward why when you get stuck would you want to pull yourself futher into the stuck situation. A much wiser choice is to put it on the back and pull yourself back out of the Stuck place to an area you have already traveled successfully than futher into unknown ground. unless you can afford 2 winches, its better to be able to move it from one end to the other. or you can even put it on another vehicle if needed. I have 20ft jumper cables that plug into the quick releases on the winch so it can be used on just about any vehicle with a 2" receiver. Haven't made the skid plate yet.

Well you can check out my bumper, its probably sweeter that his anyway heehee:headbang: