frag

I think the airbags deployed if you hit or snagged the hooks on something hard.

Commuter and I, and maybe a few others, put Mobil 1 synt auto trans fluid in the power steering. Maybe an overkill but why not for a few dollars more? Seems to work perfectly after two years (or about).

«Usually when the sensor is bad, the engine will show some loss of power, and will not seem to respond quickly.» From How stuff works. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/framed.htm?parent=question257.htm&url=http://www.wps.com/LPG/o2sensor.html

If electrical,that leaves the ignitor If fuel related, that leaves the injector If mechanical, that leaves a valve problem

Is'nt that part of the system that captures and then recirculate fuel tamk vapors? On the newer models?

Thanks!

What Al_Smokemcrack wrote + they did'nt think of it :they only have one head...

Could you give me (us) a description of the exact procedure you use for doing this?

Here in Quebec there is a Midas shop recommended by the APA that specialises in mig welding such cracks in Subary headers. I guess that if they can do it, others can. Question: When you remove the IAC for cleaning was there any gaskets involved and if so did you just used the old ones again or replace them with new? I plan on cleaning it myself as preventive maint.

The test for the rear sensor is not the same. I think the rear sensor's reading should stay stable approx in the center of the range : 0.5 - 0.6 volt. Since the upstream one is doing all the compensating, the rear one only measures the result which should not be fluctuating.

I also bought «Extra vision» bulbs and they draw exactly the same wattage than the original bulbs (45-65 or 55-65 I dont remember exactly). I dont think that soldering on a new connector will impede current flow. If you make a decent connection of course. Good luck!

Check posts 26 and 27. I'll settle for 30% of the glory.

Mostly right except for the part underlined. A few of us here have had bad gas mileage that was cured by replacing an 02 sensor that was'nt giving a CEL. Like, I think, Commuter once wrote, they often become «lazy» (let's say crossing 0.5 volt 4 times instead of 5) after a few year and/or 100 K miles and begin causing an overrich situation without triggering a CEL. That's why a precise test is necessary to detect that situation. Most of the time, if your 02 sensor is 100k old, if you have abnormal soot in the tail pipe and if gas mileage is coming down without any other explanation, it's a sign the 02 sensor has maybe become «lazy».

Exactly! That's why most of us here would'nt pass a driver's test in any civilized country. A stock car racing license perhaps? By the way, in case it should mean something, we are of exactly the same age. Just old enough to stop taking things too seriously. To return to the main subject, could it be remotely possible that the cruise control is taking the right decision and that we should rev more when we go up a steep hill instead of putting all that stress on a laboring engine?

The crank sensor is smack in the middle of the engine, just behind the crank shaft pulley (the pulley that drives the alternator, poser steering and A C belts). Are you sure the part came from that location on YOUR engine, and that they are trying to istall it at this same place on the 94? Who took the crank sensor off the 90 engine?

Is it possible that your buddy and the seller are confusing the crankshaft position sensor with the camshaft position sensor?

Make that «average north american driver...»

1stSubaruParts lists the same crank sensor for 90-94.

In my FSM for 1996 ( I suspect same for other years), it says the CEL comes on after «two consecutive trips with fault». For P0420.

I smelled it on your breath reading post no 5

Be sure to have the inspector first drink a bottle of contraband booze made especialy for that purpose iin Whitefish Montana.

I'm using the NGK platinums right now. They have been in there for almost two years now and are performing perfectly. Maybe I'm pushing my luck but I've some NGK Iridiums waiting for the next change. Just curious to compare.

1)When I did the test I was driving on a country road with very sparse traffic. It would indeed be dangerous to do that in the city or on a crowded highway. I know I was lucky but the engine had its first hickups when I entered the cottage driveway 2) I'm willing to learn something new but I dont see how running out of gas could damage the cats. 3) Some pretend that it could harm the fuel pump cause it is cooled by the surrounding gas in the tank. I doubt this very much cause the pump is mainly cooled by the gas going thru it. All the mooving parts of an in tank fuel pump are in contact with the fuel moving thru it, rotor and stator included. I was very surprised when I first saw a detailed diagram of how my fuel pump worked cause I was thinking ELECTRICAL SPARK!. But that's the way it is and it seems the pump is not very often responsible for fuel tanks explosions....

I dont know how it is with the newer models but the low gas light does'nt light up with all the others when I first turn the ignition key to «on». It does light up when I get very low though. I was asking myself the same question a few years ago. I did what jdw recommends, I put a five gallon gas cannister in the back and drove till the light went on. I dont remember the exact mileage but i was amazed at how long and how far I could cruise after the light went on before the engine stopped.

The belts you are writing about are usually called «drive» belts. They drive the alt, p. steering and AC. If you look at the front of your engine, you will see a large black plastic cover (on the same plane as the radiator) going from one head to the other. Under that cover is the cam belt or timing belt. You also will find there the oil and water pumps, the belt tensionner, the cam sprockets and some idler pulleys.