tcspeer

Dont forget that over torqued can streach and weaken also.

You also will need a chain wrench to hold the pulley. The big one that harbor freight sells works great. You will need a peice of the belt to wrap pulley to protect it also.

Check with Litha Subaru there in Oregon # is 866-717-2512. Or check with Campbell Nelson used Subaru parts # is 1-888-337-7757 they are in Arlington Wa. Zip is 98223 I dont know if this is D.C. or State, as much as I have bought from them I should know but I don't. both places have been good to me for years.

Maybe they seen some play in it. Some have been known to work loose.

What makes you think something is wrong with the crank pulley? Have you checked to see if it is tight when the engine is not running? If you have a multi meter I think I would check the coil pack. Get you a Haynes manuel if you dont have one and it will tell you how to check it, it's really easy.

Did you check the strut? Also check the bushing at the rear of the front control arms they are the one that have the two big bolts in them. I just had one go out and I am getting noise on the slow sharp turns. When they go bad you will see grease coming out of them. they are easy to change and it cost me 75.00 dollars for the bushing. I thought the noise was coming from right front, but it turned out to be the the left front. So your noise may be coming from there also.

I also have a postal Subaru mine is a 97, I had problems years ago with my antenna I just pulled it up by hand and undone the elc. motor plug their at the antenna and leave it up it has caused no problems.

I wish I could help, but I have no ideal but I can give you a bump back to the top. I have not even seen bikes carried that way.

Chevy wagons, what a great car those were. I wish the full size wagons were still around. I think the last full size wagon I seen was the Buick Centry in the early 90's.

This is problably true because all of the ones on rts. are automatic. Iam sure the standards could not hold up to this type of use.

Most rural routes are not in neighborhoods, those carriers you see there are city carriers, they use a vechile that is provided by the post office, I dont even know who makes them. Most rural routes are along the hiways and county roads. We are able to get to speed limit many times during the day. As far as the gravel and leaves maybe they do help. That car of yours is really sharp looking, if mine looked that good I would be much more picky about things, then I am on mine.

Thanks Juan, I needed help on this issue, most postal carriers do like me they replace only the tire that fails and this problem of torque bind is not even discussed in our craft, at least I have not heard it, and we work our cars much harder than most people that use their cars for pleasure.

Cookie, yes it is automatic.

Again, I am not telling anyone to do what I do, but my car has 304,000 miles of postal del. on it. Its a 1997 Subaru Legacy Wagon, it went to work on the Rt. in 1996 ten years now, and I have never had problems replacing tires as needed. I had lots of miles on it before I found out you or not suppose to run them that way. The money I have saved by buying one tire instead of four would easy pay to fix what ever problem most of you worry about. If this was true and as important as most of you think, I would be the first to leave Subaru and buy me a car I could use. My advice is to keep good tires you may not be as lucky as I have, but if you need to put a tire on that does not have the same tread depth to get home, do it and dont sweat it.

That sounds right, I done mine a few years back in the 97 wagon it was very easy. Be sure and take the cable off of the battery first, you dont want to make any sparks while you are back their.

I think Auto Zone or O'Reilys have a parts locator on their web site, I dont know if it will show fuel filter but it might. Some one here will know but it seems like their is not as many people here on the weekends as during the week.

My filter is where ferret said but mine is a 97 model. If yours is not there start at the tank and follow the lines it may be mounted on the bottom of the car.

I have never done an axle this way, it dont seem like this would give enough play to get the axle out. But if you have done it I guess there is. One other thing to remember through is the ball joint does need to be checked every once in a while.

I dont remember having any problems getting the inner joint to line up, but I dont remember it being keyed either, but it may have been. I think it would be more easy to pop the ball joint and the control arm link then undoing the strut. If you will get the Haynes manuel it will show and tell which ones to take loose for axle replacement. I used it and it was easy when I replaced the axle a few years back. Last week I had to take spindle and hub off to replace wheel bearing so I had to undo the strut, and I thought it was more work then the way the Haynes gives directions for removing the axle. But I realize other people may think different. But I would look at the Haynes and then decide.

I get used parts from this place by U.P.S. Campbell/Nelson in Arlington, Wa. Toll free 1-888-337-7757 0r sales@findusedparts.com I have used them around six or seven times with no problem.

I think mine is so easy because it comes off so much, it dont get time to rust. But I have got about three years out of these last axles so that is much better than the ones I use to use.

I just took the hub and spindle off of my 97 last week, and the ball joint was no problem. It came right out with a small pry bar. Be sure to remove the bolt from the pinch clamp.

Looks like you are on the right track with the switch. I dont know which ones will interchange, but a good Subaru junk yard will give you that information they seem to have better information than part houses.

Have some one hold it down while you look at the front and back and see if all of the bulbs are flashing.

Did you check the bulbs and fuse?