tcspeer

I bet the cleaning is not what fixed it, the connector was probably loose and when you put it back in you got it pluged back tight, this has happenen to mine a couple of times also. Mine gets knocked loose from the mail tubs and things I carry in floorboard. If it quits again try wiggling the connector.

I have only changed my pad clips about twice during the last 25 or so pad changes I dont think that would cause the knocking, but it might be worth a try, I still think he has a wraped rotor.

I have been using a stant locking cap on my 97 legacy wagon for years with no problem. You can buy them at Wal Mart but if they dont have the chart there to tell you which one you need you can get one from Auto Zone or one of the other big parts place.

Couple of more things to check, the brake fluild if you pushed the piston back in with out taking any out. And you might check to see if a wheel weight might have got knocked off during the work.

They all look fine! even when they are warped. If you dont want to change them I think I would at least check them like Lucky Texan was saying.

I forgot to mention their is a great site, rockauto.com is has a great parts catalog and the postal legacy has its on seperate listing. Great prices and very fast shipping. Also good is Litha Subaru the ones in the National Rural Carrier magazine. their number is 1-866-717-2512 tell them you have a postal wagon and you will get parts at a big discount and they will also give free tect advice. You will get your parts in two to three days.

If you have a muti meter, check the coil pact the next time you have problems.

My guess is you got a bad rotor, (really bad) if you still have the old ones replace them one at a time and see.

I have a postal wagon it's a 1997 the calipers are the same, as the left hand drive. I have over 300,000 miles on mine so their is not much that has not been replaced. The only two things I found so far that is different is the steering rack arms, they are backwards and the heater core is also different. I'am sure their is other things but that is all I have found so far. If you have questions a good Subaru salvage yard has good information on parts exchange. If you have trouble finding one get back with me and I will give you the phone number of one that is helpful. The exchange price at Auto Zone is not bad you might check their site I dont remember the price but it 's not much. Dont try to rebuild, the boots are way to tough to get back in.

Thanks, this is a tip I need, I will put that on my list for next trip to parts store.

(DVM) is that the same as mutimeter? I'am lacking on electronic skills and names of the fancy tools. I do know how to check my small batteries with the mutimeter I have, and I think I can check the coil pact with it, at least I got the numbers to match what the Subaru manuel called for.

Did you turn the balance all the way to the side that is not working? That should let you know something if you turn the good side off. If you have nothing it is most likely the connection.

Tips! On my 2.2 engine it helps to take washer tank off. Keep a couple of the old wires for a spare just in case the next time you change plugs one of the ends come off of your wire. it's hard to buy a replacement when stores are not open. Never use the rachet to start the plug, I use the socket and extention, and then check it by fingers to make sure it screws in and out easy before putting the wrench on it, if it is straight it will have a little movement side to side each way before you get it tight.

Zyewdall has given you good advice, I had to replace an engine because of lack of attention to one of the pulleys that pulls the belt.

That sounds like a really good ideal with the vice, I will try that next time. Thanks!

What did you do with your old rotors? The part number may be the same but the rotors may not be. I have run into this problem at Auto Zone while replacing rotors on a Chev. Lumina car. they fit fine but the wheel would not go on, and the computer at Auto Zone showed they were suppose to be the right one. I had to bring them my old one and have them match it.

Your right about after market wires we had an issue with this when replacing some on a Saturn. I now keep my old wires when I take them off that way their is one if I have one that gives trouble.

Cookie, I am not that fast, but I do get lots of practice, around three sets of pads a year and maybe one set of shoes ever year. I keep my 14mm and 17mm hanging by my work space, and have a 80lb torque stick handy for the lugs. I still have trouble with that little c- clip on the emg. brake bracket that is hooked to rear shoe.

Did you check the other side? I have drums on the rear of mine So I know I am not much help. If the other side looks o.k. check and see if both sides are put together the same.

Are you talking about the ones that you can change the ends and make them do different things, I have a pair of them but they wont get a good bite. I think they came from Harbor Freight so maybe I need to get a good pair from Snap On or Sears.

Your right about us mail people, I keep pads and shoes that still have some wear and put them where ever they are needed if one of the other ones break or wear uneven.

If you go to a mom and pop auto store you can probably buy just one plug wire and change it, also buy a plug this may take care of it with out all of the other tests.

I quit turning rotors a long time ago, you are better off to buy a new one for around 40.00 bucks. As for as the squeal you could probably just add a little anti squeal to back of pads and it should take care of it.

Get you an in line plug checker and see if you are getting fire, they can be had for a few dollars at part store. If you are getting fire check to see if the inj. is clicking, if it is clicking get you a noid light and check the inj. plug,you can get a set of these also for a few dollars. If this light dont light then then you will need to check to see if it has fire coming to it, use a small test light or mutimeter. If you have current here it could be the E.C.M. that was what was wrong with mine when I had a #3 misfire code. Did you check the easy stuff first like the wire and the plug? I had current to my inj. plug but it was not getting the signal from the E.C.M. to do what it was suppose to do.

Does anyone know of an easy way to get the c-clip off of the Emg. brake bracket that is connected to the rear shoe. I manage to get it off but they must be an easier way. Maybe, I squeeze it to tight when I put the new one on.