tcspeer

My nephew is a shop manager at a large dealership and he told me it most likely was on the verge of giving trouble and my action helped it along. I dont know if this is correct but it was better than anything I could come up with.

Yes I did this about two months back, when I unpluged the # 3 injector it quit working altogether, I had to get a new E.C.U. to get it to work again, but now all four are working fine, but the shudder is still there. I have no ideal why the E.C.U. went out at the same time I was unpluging the injectors but it did. However I have not done a good check on the transmission mount, that I will check.

Whats you talking about Nipper?

Your right according to him we are a cult. I think I agree with him Subaru owners are a different breed. I am lucky I get to listen to Click and Clack, and Ed. each Saturday being I am in my car working. Now on the topic of the axles I got mine rebuild from Litha Subaru and I still have the shudder when my car is at idle and in gear. Whats up with that?

All I got was the four small dash lines. But mine is a 1997 Legacy wagon. They must have changed something from 95 to the 97.

Does the harbor Freight scanner work on your Subaru? I could not get it to read mine. Someone else here also had a problem with it. It may just depend on the year model.

I dont think it makes any difference, but next time you could put it on the side that has the most worn pad.

1 Lucky Texan, maybe Ed Wallace will explain it to us tomorrow.

I bought the Innova 3100 digital O.B.D.II at Wal Mart for around 100.00 dollars it works fine on my 1997 Legacy. Stay away from the 49.00 dollar one from Harbor Freight it works fine on our Saturn but it will not read the Subaru codes.

Check your radiator good you may see a seep, also check the hoses including the heater hoses, could also be the heater core, I just changed mine about two weeks back. also check on the bottom at the thermorstat and the little hose there.

I think Frag is talking about an axle that has been changed, and being longer than the original one that was in the car. This was something that was talked about in the past.

I agree with Matt, most likely the big hose on bottom of the the thing that connects the air filter box to the big black thing that sits near the back on top of engine. the hose or line is around 5/8 in diam.

I just done mine last weeken in a 97 Legacy wagon. Get you a Haynes manuel and read about heater core replacement. You can also do a search here on the search section, someone posted the steps involved in their job. It was suppose to take six hours on mine but I ended up taking about a day and a half. I think I could do it now in six hours. I removed the inst. panel and radio and neither needed to be removed on mine. You may have to remove yours being it is a 92. I took the console out, the seats out, the glove box out. then removed panel under dash, pop out the defroster grill, their was two bolts under it holding dash. There is around ten or twelve bolts holding dash but the Haynes manuel shows you where they are. If you dont have airbags it will be much easy then mine was, they are a pain, the control box for them were mounted to the bottom of dash and they had to be removed, but they had the little star screws with a blocker in hole where the driver would not go in. I had to slowly screw them out with channel locks. The elc. connectors were colored coded on mine so that was not a problem. The Subaru dealership wanted 448.00 dollars to change mine.

Were the sixteen in. wheels stock? If you just want to get the right rotor I would take the one you have to the auto store when you go.

This may not help but I changed my heater core last weeken and when I put it back together my airbag light was also on. My light was on because I had not pushed the little lock lever forward after connecting the yellow plug.

Remove the ball joint pinch bolt and pry the ball joint out, you should then be able to swing it out of the way. Get the fork looking tool to seperate the ball joint. If I remember right the bolt must come out not just loosened.

Did you remove the pin? on the diff. side. also the whole hub and caliper needs to swing out of the way.

I think Kelly tires used to be made in Tyler Tx. I dont know if they still are or not.

One other thing, it could be the caliper seal leaking, If so just get one rebuilt and change it. You will only need to bleed that one when you put it back on. I would guess the other people are right it is most likely the line or bleeder valve.

Also check and make sure you have both heater hoses hooked up. It may be looped, how long have you had the car?

Nice looking car, you can get lots of answers here, I sure have. Its because of people here that I got the courage to change my own heater core this weeken. It took me a day and a half to do what was suppose to be a six hour job, but it saved me nearly 500.00 dollars.

The heater core in my right wheel drive Subaru has about a three in. hose connecting the inlet tube to the heater core, right next to the core. That is where mine was leaking the core was fine, but I put the new one in anyway. I dont know why the whole pipe on the core wouldnt be copper but it was not. Does the one for reg. drive have this peice of hose?

Thanks, it was pluged but the little lock device was not pushed foward, the light is off now.

After two days I got my heater core changed, and now the air bag light is on, any one know how to turn it off? Or why it is on, I got all of the elc.plugs back on I think.

Thanks Shawn, I will be sure and mark it like you said.