Rooster2

If it is simply a duplicate car key that you want, then go to any hardware store, or even the auto repair center at a Wal Mart. They will cut you a new keys(s) on the spot. Lot easier and less costly to do this, then going to the dealer. You don't say, but if your only key was lost, then call a locksmith shop that makes house calls to have the guy cut you a new key at your house, or where the car is located. You will prolly need to show an ID to the locksmith to show that you are not stealing the car. Good Luck!

If compression on that cylinder is low, it might make more sense financially, to swap in a used 2.2 motor. They can be had for not much money. That is what I did when I owned my 91 Leggie.

Isn't there a warm or hot start sensor that feeds an imput into the ECU? If so, I would suspect that. A fuel pump that performs fine when cold should still be good.

If you figure out that it is a bad ball joint, I would get that fixed pronto. If it breaks, you are stranded at the least, or in an accident at worst.

All tires are compromises in terms of over all performance. I found it helpful to go to the website of Discount Tire Direct. There you can enter the size that fits your car. All tires listed will have a customer response link to the tire they purchased with their thoughts on their tire's performance, and if they recommend that tire or not. Most helpful!

I am thinking it makes a lot of sense to go to a wrecking yard and buying all the internal window channeling, guides, winder, and weather stripping, and replacing these parts with what you got. Otherwise, trying to correct what parts are bent, and throwing the window alignment out of wack will be difficult.

@Rooster2 I searched for it, but couldn't find it. Seems like most people asking about oil or gas smell, but nothing about interior. Go to "Search," this forum. Type in "Little off topic, I suppose," is the thread that I was thinking of. Advise is in response to guy asking how to get rid of tobacco smoke odor from a car. I know that is not your problem, however, lots of good advise on products to get rid of unwanted odors.

+1 on haze being on outside of the lens. I used toothpaste and a wet paper towel to clean my lenses. It worked pretty good.

Seafoam does a lot of good, but be aware that it has a reputation of being hard on engine seals. I don't think I would leave it in the crankcase for an extended period of time.

Just recently someone asked a similar question. There were a number of good responses. A forum "search" should yield this info for you.

Yes, that was my experience. I replaced my knock sensor, and the CEL reset itself, and has not come back on.

I am thinking that wiring connectors were incorrectly to the wrong power source. Like you said, some other wires were incorrectly connected to cause your CEL response. If it hasn't been too long since repairs were made, take your car back to who did the work, and let them sort out what should properly connect to what. Years back, I had the same problem, and had a devil of a time trying to get things connected properly. Finally, I went to a wrecking yard, found a same year Subaru, and marked down on paper what color wires in what male connector plugged into what female connector. That helped a lot to finally get all wiring to work properly.

As far as that high pitch whistle noise, have you looked really hard, and even felt around, to see if you have a vacuum hose disconnected, or an old vacuum hose with a split in it? That could cause both the whistle noise, and poor driveability. Check all vac lines with the engine running and not running. It is worth a shot to see if this is causing the trouble.

You may be right that the coil split is front and rear, not left and right, as I implied. I guessed at the coil pack, since two plugs are misfiring. I still think it is worth replacing the coil pack. Do you know someone that drives a Subie, that you could borrow their coil pack to try on your car? It would be a cheap test. Suggest you wait until after dark, then open your hood, run the motor, and see if you can see any sparking (shorting) from the plug wires.

Since your misfire is both 1 & 3, I would suspect a bad coil pack. A used one from a wrecking yard, won't cost much. It is not difficult to install. I would install the replacement coil in the parking lot of the wrecking yard. Can you read what brand of plug wires they put on your car? Sometimes the brand name is printed on the wire insulation. If it is a brand that you have never heard of before, then I wouldn't be happy either. I am with you on using OEM wires, however I have found Bosch wires to work well.

Congrats on a job well done! Figure your labor at $75/hour X 4 hours is a minimum cost savings of $300, but prolly more.

Love how Subarus are easy to work on!

+1 on above. I couldn't have said it better!

The knock sensor is electronic, so it's input to the ECU to retard or advance engine timing is super quick within milliseconds. That is way faster then the seconds or minutes that you are thinking about. It has always been my understanding that ping is caused by carbon engine deposits on the face of the piston or on the head. Short of pulling the heads to look for the deposits, you may want to try a gas additive. A trip to a car parts store should yield you a product to add to your gas tank. I would ask the counter people for advise on which product to buy. It might help.

This dilemma of high miles with an HG issue has been asked before. My opinion is to drop in a good used 2.2 motor for good reliability. With 245K miles on the odo, the motor is nearing the end of its useful life. I don't think it is advisable to put good time and money in a nearly worn out motor.

I too, would think a bad MC, particularly since the brake pedal keeps sinking to the floor. I don't think a new one is that costly, so you are not out much money if you install one yourself. It will give you the opportunity to use your bleeder tool again.

I guess you could try flattening out the twisted condenser, and hope it doesn't leak. It was prolly damaged in shipping. Ask Rockauto or shipper how to request a damage claim.

Using search insert the words "Legacy tailgate latch." Lots written there, some by me, plus links for more info. Info regards rusted latch, maybe, maybe not your problem. Maybe you have already read these links on your search. If it is strictly a problem regarding inserting the key, then lube the lock cylinder. Squirt some WD-40, using the small plastic wand to spray into the key hole. Doing this will surely permit your key to enter the lock.

This is a typical Legacy/Outback wagon problem. The latch mechanism rusts over time to cause binding and jaming. You can lube it up with spray grease that will help for a couple of months, but the problem will return. I can't remember all the particulars, when I replace mine on my 99 OBW (same body style as your car). I removed the inside panel on the lift gate to gain access to the mechanism. I bought my latch mechanism on line for about $35. It was easy to install. If you do a "search" in the archives on this forum, you will see write ups on how to fix this problem better then what I have described. If by chance your problem is strictly a key issue, spray some key lube into the key slot to lubricate the key tumblers. Still, I am betting that you have a rusted latch mechanism.

Go to an auto parts store like Autozone or Advance, etc, and get the codes scanned and cleared at no cost!