Rooster2

Kwhisles, I live in Indy, and find good parts at Happy Wrecking Yard on Tibbs Avenue on the south side of Indy. All Subarus there are kept at the farthest (north) end of the yard. It has been a while since I have been there, at that time there were about 8 Subies there. Sometimes, G W Pierce wrecking yard on highway 31 north of Indy has Subies. They sell both domestic and foreign parts. Both Happy's and GW will let you walk their yards. The Pick a Part (off 16th Street), and Pull a Part (off I-70) yards in Indy are very much hit and miss on Subarus in their yards. There are a few other yards around, but don't let you walk their yards, but maybe worth a phone call to ask what they have. Good luck, Larry (Rooster2)

Not uncommon for idler pulley to lock up, I have had that happen before. It is really a sealed bearing, that can't really be greased. I sourced one from a pick and pull yard to fix.

I have heard of a spray that will rid tobacco odor, but can't remember anything about it. Suggest calling a car parts store or auto detail shop, and ask to buy a can. Update, I just did a google search for "rid tobacco smell," and found a wealth of suggestions from fabreeze, vinegar, baking soda, citrus peel, and more. Do the same google, and I am sure you will find a solution.

Wally world's Supertech has worked well for me. When adding fresh ATF through a long funnel into the dip stick tube, you will need to add 4 quarts, and just a smidge more. If it were me, I would add a little less then 4 quarts, and add a can (pint size) of Trans-X. You may actually want to change ATF twice, since you can only change about half the quantity that is in the trany system. The torque converter retains the other half. Then, add the Trans-X on the second ATF change.

My recommendation is Wix, Purolator, NAPA. I avoid Fram. I heard a lot of negative talk about Fram. I was using one at the time, so at time of oil change, upon removal of the Fram, I used a hack saw and cut the filter open. I found very little filter media in the Fram, and also found the thickness of the casing wasn't much thicker then a coke can. Last Fram I bought. It is too far for me to go to the dealer, so I buy after market filters.

I had the reverse problem several years back. I had a 91, and found that later years had a different bracket, prolly like yours, that I bought, and wouldn't fit my car. It is only a guess to say that Subaru 90-92 were much the same. To be on the safe side, prolly a Leggie in the 94-99 will have the bracket you need.

Are you sure the belt is tight enough? May also consider adding oil to the A/C system.

Good advise from all..............Thanks!

Thanks for the greasing advise. I appreciate it, and will work on it this weekend.

Your problem may be similar to problem encountered with 99 and 00 Legacies. Their trany is reluctant to switch gears from R to D. A can of Trans-X may help you. Suggest you go to Search on this forum and read an old thread titled "Fixed!! Delayed trany forward engagement. I wrote this thread about 2 years ago, and Trans-X continues to help my trany.

My 98 OBW, has developed a creaky strut bearing on driver's side. I have heard the strut bearing is sometimes called the "top hat." Any suggestions on how to quiet the creaky sound? Strut still performs well, so not interested in swapping out the strut, just to get rid of the annoying noise. Thanks for suggestions.

Have fun with your new car!

When you start out with a cold engine, are you able to drive about 4 miles, then the temp needle abruptly goes from normal to high in a hurry? If so, then I am thinking head gasket trouble. I went through the same sequence as you with new radiator, cap, and some hoses, but still would "sky" the temp gauge in no time. This was on a 91 Subie with the 2.2 motor like yours. When starting to over heat, look for bubbles in the over flow tank.

I replaced mine a couple of years back. The knock sensor bolt threads straight into the block, however, there are engine parts in the way that block a direct straight shot using a driver and extension. You will need to use a wobbler attachment to your driver, and work at an angle to be able to get your socket on top of the nut. The working angle is more like 60 to 80 degrees, when turning the driver handle. It is a little awkward when first threading in the bolt. This is best done by hand turning the drive extension and wobbler, to thread in the bolt a few threads, before attaching the ratchet drive to complete the tightening of the bolt.

The 2010 Forester is a really nice vehicle. I helped a friend buy one a few days ago. I wouldn't be leery regarding any HG issue with the Forester. Subaru has had 10 years to get the HG fixed on the 2.5 motor. Don't know what was going on with your clutch on your 99, but the "shutters" indicates that something wasn't right from the beginning. Suggest you check out the Subaru Forester forum. There is a sub forum that is called Forester Shopping that addresses questions by people interested in buying a new 2010. Here is the web site. It is very helpful when buying a new vehicle. http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/

+1 on above. I have had a wheel bearing go bad, yet the others remain good for years. Like said, just replace the bad one, and motor on.

+1 on your not being told the complete story, or being told a bogus story. Rear mufflers never over heat as described, while the rest of the muffler system is unaffected.

With your lights and gauges going nuts, it reminds me of my old VW that did the same thing. Turned out to be a bad cell in the battery. The car surprisingly would start, but run poorly with low voltage in the system. The low voltage is what causes the gauges to go nuts. As someone else advised, go to a car parts store, where the counter guy will come out to the parking lot to test the charging system and battery on your car at no cost. You need to do this very soon, or risk getting stranded with a car that won't start or run.

I used toothpaste on a wet paper towel, and cleaned by hand. Worked pretty good. I did not use polish afterwards, but think that would help too.

A can of Seafoam may help this problem. Suggest you change the oil within a few days of using the product, as it can be hard on engine seals if left in the engine for a lengthy period of time.

Glad to hear that Seafoam worked well for you. I have heard only good things about the product. However, I have read that Seafoam is hard on engine seals, so good that you are changing oil a couple of times after the product has done it's work.

Pretty sure they are all the same amongst Leggies/Impreza. Update.........read on another thread on this forum that there are a variety of sizes. See very recent thread re: 97 OBW A/C issues. Then again, maybe you wrote the original thread.

With these questions, are you trying to convert an R-12 to R-134? If so.... In my experience the Schrader valves are generic to all R-12 systems in all cars, and 134 systems are generic in all cars in their respective systems, but not interchangeable between R-12 and R-134. You see this played out in the converter kits, when switching from R-12 to R-134. One kit fits all in terms of modifying the ports to accept the larger R-134 hose connector.

I had a 91 Leggie that my wife drove. One day, the radiator sprung a leak, so I replaced the radiator. A couple of weeks later, it started over heating after about a 5 minute drive. It turned out to be a bad HG on the 2.2 motor. So, yes 2.2 motors blow head gaskets. I don't know if the leaky radiator caused the over heating problem, or a bad HG caused the over heating problem, and the added coolant pressure caused the radiator to leak. If you can't find any radiator leakage anywhere under the hood, then it is a good assumption that a bad HG is causing the coolant to exit out the tail pipe. You may want to look for added wetness or water (coolant) coming out the tail pipe. I gotta think you have burped any air bubble out of the cooling system by now.

I am with you, $2,500 is absurd for the package. Way over priced in my opinion. I like the wheels you have picked out!