Gloyale

I disagree. There is only a need to add one Fused, battery direct 12v supply to the EJ harness...for the main relay power. Easy to do very clean with a nice single fuse holder. Other than that, the ignition switched voltage can come from existing circuits designed to run the choke, anti diesel and ECM (feedback carbs) Agreed Correct again, must be soldered, and it's good to use matching wire colors to existing for clarity later. I am not so sure however that it all needs to be labeled. Other than a label that shows what the donor Harness is from. This gives reference to the correct wiring diagrahms and that is the best labeling that you can have, a complete wiring diagrham. Point being, having FSM diagrahm for the EA car and the EJ harness is almost essential for any install. And if you have those things, you don't need to go all out labeling. Espescially don't need to spend $40 on a label maker. Use that money to buy new plugs and wires for your EJ engine. As for paying someone to strip a harness, I think if paying someone for that step of the process will make the swap happen.....whereas it otherwise is too intimidating,...... which wiring is to many,.......it's very worth it. And in that case, he would get a well labeled, clean to install product and some instruction, resulting in a better job for a first timer. It would bring him closer to your "right way" Agreed

This doesn't sound right to me. How can one leaking injector fill the Crankcase and all 4 cylinders sitting overnight? Not possible. IF anything it could fill one cylinder but not 4.

That is the "Charging System" light. IF it is lighting while the engine is running, you have a problem with the charging system. Usually it means the Alternator is going out......but sometimes can be a bad battery, bad connection, or both. Definately get is checked out. Have the Alt and the Battery tested.

The large EA81 flywheels are thicker than the EA82s. This moves the whole clutch assembly away from the engine, further towards trans. I've seen this combo cause issues where the Throw Out bearing doesn't have enough room to travel away from the Pressure Plate fingers. Doesn't cause problems with every clutch set, but some it does. It really is better to use and EA82 flywheel with the 5 spd.

The hard part is stripping down the donor harness. figuring out which wires to cut out, which to leave alone, and which to seperate to run to the EA body. Once that is done though, it's about 6 to 8 wires to hook up.....depending on the excact configuration. I think if you bought a harness stripped and labeled from Chux or other board member you would be able to do it pretty easily. The hardest part on thte install end is locating the wiring you need to tap into on the EA body........Tach, Temp Gauge, CEL, VSS, IG. 12v+, Batt 12v+, and start signal. Most of that is pretty easy and members here can give you ideas ad help when you get to that stage of wiring.

That would be my bro, MrGLegacy. He is on here some. The car is Clifford, the Big Red Soob. 2.5 liter engine, D/R 5spd, vLSD rear end.......all accompany the 3 inch HighGuys lift kit. MrGLegacy and Myself are the HighGuys.

That sounds correct. Engine revolves twice as fast as cams......if it was one to one it would be a 2 stroke engine. I will bet you're motor bent valves when the belt pulley siezed. That is why you are hearing funny, out of time noises. Not out of time.....but no compression so it spins fast and sounds funny.

White connector in this pic is the Nuetral switch Black one is the LO range Green one is the 4wd The one that is further up the side of the trans, not visible in either pic is the Reverse switch.

That trans also looks to have the lo range switch mounted on the passenger side of the rear extension. That means that trans is from a late 88 or 89 model. 85 thru 87 --Carbed models....Reverse and 4wd switches only 87-- Cali (SPFI) Reverse, 4wd and Nuetral switches early 88 -- Reverse, 4wd and Neutral switches late 88 and 89 -- Reverse, 4wd, neutral and LO range switches.

It worth noting that if you put a weak, watered down mix (or straight water), you will eventually lose it and start overheating. Espescially in a Subaru. Water boils at 212. But we all know from boiling water that it begins to steam and bubble a bit before the actual boiling. Normal engine temps are from 190 to 210 ish. So basically on a hot day, working the engine hard, it doesn't take much to push the water to a boil......where it steams out......and then because it left as vapor and evaporates, never get's sucked back in the rad from the overflow bottle. The cycle repeats day after day, trip after trip, until the coolant is so low that the engien REALLY starts to get hot.....at which point the boiling water thing becomes and exponential problem. The glycol in coolant raises the boiling point to 250+ Run strong mixes.....at least 50/50 coolant/water mix and up to 70/30. (after that point cooling will be diminished from stronger mix)

You can't really use the EA "relay" as it's not the same setup. It has what fuji called the "rev Sensor" also called the FPCU (fuel pump control unit) It's a black box, half the size of a card deck. Mounted to the bracket with the hood release pull. (drivers side kickpanel) usually has a Mitsu style 3 diamond logo on it. Basically it passes power to the Fuel pump, as well as the anti-diesel solenoid only when ignition pulse is present. The connector that plugs into that box has 6 wirestotal, 3 or 4wires you can use. - Blue/red wire is the fuel pump power wire. You can run power out of the EJ FP relay to this connector, so you don't have to run a wire back to pump. -Yellow is the EA tach wire.....run your EJ tach signal to that wire and it will feed to the tachometer in dash. -And if you want...it's a good place to get switched power for signaling the EJ main relay -There is also a ground wire in that connector so you could actually use that too. IMO, that the wiring for Carbed models is entirely different. You should disregard that 88 FSM....it won't really help. But here's this

Okay......stopme if I'm missing something.......but if the car is running a weber, wouldn't any ECU it may have ever had be irrelavant and not doing anything? Take the friggin bulb out. IF the car has an ECU anymore, it certainly isn't needed to run the Weber. On the Original hitachi you can simply disconnect the ECU and the car still runs fine.

AC clutch wires?

If that is your suspect, remove the cam case and measure the vavle free lengths. I have to say though, I don't think that is vavle noise. I'd say that falls into the "heavy clunking" diagnosis catagory which means rod bearings. The oil may look fine, but that can be decieving. The hole the drain bolt goes through is actaully a short tube with threads welded into the pan. Problem is, you don't ever get the last half inch of oil out of the pan, and unless you have a magnetic plug, you won't find any shavings either. Pull the oil pan and the baffle and you will be able to reach up into the engine and try to wiggle the rods on the crank. If they move, or if you find chunks in the pan, you will know what we mostly already do. It can be fixed right now, before it ruins the crank or tosses a rod through the block.

are you reffering to the crank sensor? right under the Alternator?

Are you measuring from the bolt on the bottom of the mount that goes into the crossmember? is that correct? I can take measurements today.

JDM take out and Remanufactured are NOT the same. You are better off to work on what you got. I think the job can be done for less than $600

It's a pretty standard bosch style injector connector. You can buy them pretty cheap at auto parts stores or on ebay or from summit. Solder on new ones....it's not worth it to replace the whole entire harness with another old crusty one (the newest you could find would be a 91) Trust me, just order a kit for say a nissan 6cyl and you'll be set. (4 for the injectors, 1 for the CTS, and 1 for the AAV)

I think the Phase II heads are the same so there wouldn't really be any reason to swap heads. The franken motor is phase I 2.2 heads on a 2.5 block. He should be able to swap just intakes and be done.

Bring the 3 marks on the Flywheel around to visible in the window on the back of enigne. Line up the center one with the pointer. Now with the disty removed, you will see a small dot on the gear(not the pin) and a small hump on the base of the disty shaft. Line up the dot and the bump, and drop the disty straight in with letting it turn until the gears engage (it will turn a bit as the gears mess) This is the factory proceedure for installing the disty. Other way to do it, but this works pretty much all the time. Now, as far as firing order. It is 1-3-2-4 (you have 4 and 2 swapped)

Agreed. However getting and EJ swap to pass CA emmisions is lot of hoop jumping to say the least. It's possible to do....but......... I say without being able to test the 4wd it's on;y worth about $500.

Sweet. Glad it was something simple. So, here is my thoughts about the high Idle. Check that there is power on the yellow wire that goes to the IAC valve (center pin) IIRC, that wire is supplied with power from the same source as the injectors and alot of other stuff. If you had cut a wire and had no power to the injectors, perhaps you still don't have power to the IAC motor.

I think 88 non-adjustable 4wd wagon springs

The OBD II swap I did was the easiest. Fuel temp sensor won't keep it from running. You can trick that with a 1k ohm resistor. just don't cut out the OBD II connector like i did..lol

I was plagued by similar "lift and shift" problems during takoffs in my EJ18'd 84 wagon. I also had torsion bars that kept saggin, so i'd reclock another notch, only to have them sag more next time I went Wheelin. So I went ahead and added EA82 coilovers to the rear. Stood the rump roast in the air like a cat in heat. De-clocked the torsions a notch. Okay, better, stiff but not ungodly. Well the added side benefit I found is that the front end stays planted now on takeoffs. The stiff rear end keeps the front from being able to lift and keeps more weight on the front tires to limit spin. Turns out there was a reason for Fuji to make them so stinkbug from the factory.......who'd a thunk it?