Gloyale

Well......I'm not sure if it will work with EA82 axles. The arms are longer by about 3/4 inch. But the EA82 axles are longer by about 1-1/2 inches. However it seems that at least early EA82 alxes will "compress" down to a length that seems like it would short enoguh to fit. Not sure. Gonna try and mount a set up and see what happens. The later EA82 axles with a slidng DOJ on;y on the inner end, don't comress as far.....so those definately won't work.

IIRC, the main relay is powered from the same circuit that is reference voltage for the ALT. (yellow wire with diode, becoming green before it goes to ECU) Perhaps this wire is the problem. Did you leave the diode in it? I wonder if somehow the voltage is being driven low while? The more I think about it....it does sound like a power supply to the relay issue.

the cable needs to be slightly loose when the clutch pedal is released. Cable tight = clutch lightly/begining to be disengaged

I think you are looking at diagrahms for the wrong years. I looked up codes in the 86 FSM. yesterday. Code 11 is "no ignition pulse" And code 14 is MAF. injector code is like 42 or something high like that, and it's only one code...not paired like later years. I'll bet even the 86 FSM may have wrong colors for your 85, as alot of stuff was wonky in those old ones. wish i still had a working scanner. I could scan you the 85 and 86 FSMs' Anyhow....glad you got it figured out.

There is no CAS on the early MPFI. They use a conventional electronic ignition distributor, not the optical CAS style like later models. Injector firing is triggered by a simple tach signal. Are you getting a tach signal at the ECU?

Pull type clutch? If so, remove the starter, and unbolt the Pressure plate from the flywheel thorugh thte starter hole.

You will have to put the 99 wiring harness ontp the 95 engine. You will probably need to swap the 99 Throttle body onto the 95 intake to work with the wirng. (off chance the 99 TPS will bolt to the 95 intake...in which case no TB swapping needed.) Problem will be with the IAC. The 95 intake will not have the matching passage to the IAC mounted in the 99 Throttle body. Honestly......probably not the best route to go. Perhaps put the 99 heads onto the 95 shortblock?

One of the 5 MAF wires is a shield hooked to ground. As for the CAM sensor.....I've seen bad connections at the CAM sensor cause all kinds of rough running issues. With it entirely unplugged, the ECU defaults to a basic timing map and runs the engine pretty well. Don't get too hung up on the idea....it's just a guess. Honestly it really seems like an unmetered air leak. Either MAF screwing up or there is a leak in the system. Got all the PCV hoses hooked up? Both valve covers and the one on the back of the block? Vacuum line to the brae booster?

Your CV's will be at a pretty steep angle. There is also very little room in the rear for block. Without any angle, the camber will be very bad. And personally.....I think this type of lift is crazy.......you are basically relying entirely on each indiviual strut bolt to hold without any flex. Guys do it on EA wheelers, but on a 98 outback, capable of 90+ MPH, it seems like a bad idea. I would build (and I do:grin:) a proper one piece strut top. Probably only one inch though......two inches over stock on an Outback is pushing it.

Here's a diagrahm I did showing the faulty crimp splices in teh XT harness. this is for an 88 so the wiring is late style, a bit different than yours.....but you can see the idea. Do you have an 85 FSM available?

He was measuring with the plugs hooked up to the injector. the injector passes the voltage through....that's normal for there to be voltage on both sides when it's hooked to the injector. tycho, test voltage on each connector with it unhooked from the injector. Also....it's be a good Idea to ohm out each injector and make sure it isn't shorted. Also, are you gettting any codes? Checked all fuses for the ECU? Have you tested for a pulse on the injector wires at the ECU? that would help determine if the problem is in the ECU or the Circuit.

you're gonna have truble mounting that Alt onto a EJ engine. I would just wire the EJ alt to charge the car. crossmember I would think modify a Legacy or 80's EA one.

the two wire one is for a 90 manual trans engine. The 3 wire is for 90 auto and virtually every EJ after til 99. They aren't really interchangeable. I don't think you're problem is the IAC. Sounds more like a MAF sensor, Cam sensor or perhaps a Coolant Temp sensor issue. Try unplugging the Cam sensor.....see if it runs that way. Sounds crazy but it works, and will tell you if the Cam sensor(or the wiring) is sending a bad signal.

Man I would find a different block if I was you. This (rethreading an already rethreaded hole) will be a pain in the rump roast.....cost money......and in the end you may still have a shot block. Plus aren't the heads warped too? EA blocks are EASY to come by......find another.

How much difference are we talking here? If it's only a few MM, there might be a solution. Anyone ever have to use one of the "quill" repair sleeves and matching oversized throwout on a Subaru AWD trans? It occured to me that one of those throwouts will match the Subaru Pressure Plate.....but has a larger diameter center. So perhaps one buy a "quill kit" throwout bearing, and use it on the yota trans without the quill sleeve. Anybody happen to have one of these bearings around? Ship it out to old Bill here and see if it slides over the Toyota input shaft.

By my measurements, the arms are about an inch longer. I haven't compared to installed width to determine if EA82 rear axles will work lengthwise after swapping arms. gonna be working on this today.

Damn. My machinist is awesome then........cause I get mine done in about 4 hours. Maybe cause I drop the heads off with a dozen donuts

No there are definately some differences in the years of the D/R. Specifiaclly, the 89 model, it;'s the on;y year with a Nuetral switch, and the Low range switch on the trans. Also, it's the on;y one I've opened with the wierd synchro on first gear driven gear. (not really a synchro but I don't know what to call it) It is this extra plate that is really part of the first gearset that these late D/Rs share with the early Legacy trans.

All you need it two tabs(per seat) of flat bar with holes drilled 1" apart and a drill. First, unbolt the legacy rails from the seat frame, and get you're GL rails off those seats....you will be swapping the GL rails onto the legacy seats. Then, you bolt the front of the inner rail to the existing hole in the seat frame. Next, drill a new hole in the seat and bolt the rear of the inner rail to seat. Then repaeat for the other side, but use the tabs of metal and some extra bolts and nuts to mount the rail "1 to the inside of the seat frame. Again, you will have to drill new holes in the seat framefor the rear bolt of the outer rail. you will need to trim the lower edge of the plastic trim of the legagy seats. no welding required. Using 95 outback seat is trickier....the drivers side is height adjustable, and the pivot portion of the mounts is tricky and requres grinding apart to seperate from the lower seat rail.

our H6 had a failure of the front diff bearings and the pinion bearing. If the pinion bearing is going out, service it soon......otherwise you will trash the pinion and ring gears both. Very labor intensive fix involving removal of trans, seperation of Front diff case, pump, trans and tailshft. But really ony about 500 in parts($350 for ring and pinion alone)

SPFI onto an EA81 can actually pass California smog.....with a specially scheduled inspection. Basically you have to install every part of the 90ish Loyale FI system.....it has been done.

Turn off the marker light switch on the top of the steering column.

Actually, the '00-'04 can be lifted two inches easily, without having to drop the subframe. I make a kit for them. Like this. Oh....and as said, TOD on an EJ22 is an EASY fix. rockers come right off as one assembly. then pull the HLA's and re-prime them in a pan of oil. works everytime. If you find a good outback with a bad 2.5....you're non-interference 2.2 would be a perfect bolt in solution.

they gave you a phase I 2.2 belt. All Phase II SOHC engines use the same belt (except maybe late VVT models)

rear trans mount.