Gloyale

EA81s it's easier. Pop the pins. same with most lifted EA82 But in stock height EA82s, It been my experience that the 3 trailing arm bolt need to be removed as well as the shock bolt. This allows the axle to slide off easily, without removing the diff(other option) But make sure you mark the bolt holes for realignment. The position of those three bolts adjusts the rear wheel alignment.

That's what I thought. Thanks

Crappy ones go for $250-500, better ones go for $800-1000. And in some cases really clean ones go for $1500+. The Subaru dealer here in Corvallis has a used 94 Loyale 4wd wagon with about 80k, very very nice, advetised at $4000.

What size are factory 97 Legacy GT rims?

You thought right. Ball joints. Or tie rods. Put it on jack stands and ee what wobbles. You have to pry between the knuckle and control arm to see if the Ball joint has play.

http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/products.php?year=1986&make_text=subaru&model_text=gl&category=engine_electrical&subcategory=ignition_coil ThePartsbin.com has the hitachi OEM coils for $40

With a big hammer and a good drift you can do it yourself. You do it yourself on the car, so you don't have to undo brakelines, struts, and big bolts. But Pressing it is relatively cheap $25-50 bucks, depending where you go. Good machine shop could do it, no need for dealer. But then you do risk snapped brake line if it's all crusty Fronts can easily be done with a drift at home.

Technically, you dont; get a 50/50. You get Whatever amount is generated by the increasing of Transfer pressure to it's highest premapped value. In some cases, espescially with half worn clutches. The highest premapped value is not enough to fully engage the clutches and transfer 50/50 Even the first 4EATs used a tach signal to the TCU to determine RPMs. Not fluid pressure. Like I just said. If you install a "lock switch" you force maximum possible pressure to the transfer clutches. Even old, worn clutches are going to grab pretty hard under that pressure. It really helps.

Sounding more and more like a coil issue. It's common for them to cause these types of symptoms. Although I am not sure about the misfire, but all the other stumbling when hot issues sound like coil.

In USA, EA82 carb pistons are all 9.0:1, and SPFI are 9.5:1

Externally? or into the intake? And if it was leaking coolant into the intake, How did you determine it was the gaskets and not a headgasket leak? I'm sure you do know what you're doing, I am, just trying to go over everthing. And also point out that if you're in for a penny, you should be in for a pound. How much would it suck to do all this work, put it back toghether and have it blow those old HGs in a week? Judging by the giant pile of Rat turds on the block, I'd say that poor engine needs all the love it can get. Do the HGs. It is money and time well spent. And in the end, it will be easier than trying to fight that intake off. And possibly bending, or breaking it or something else.

O.K. that is the model designator. Flashed if there are no codes present. It would be a 6,or 7 or 8 if the car was Cali. spec. Auto or Manual(whichever it's not) Would be 1-4 if the car was SPFI. Point is that no codes indicated. I'm at a bit of a loss. Have you tested the function of the TPS? at least the idle switch portion? And other than a rough idle, how does this affect the driveability? Flat spot in the power band?

Why are you puling the intake then?

You might break something prying, or bugger up the intake sealing surfaces. I'm telling ya. Just remove the whole head and intake toghether. It's way easy to then hold the intake still, and then just spin the head off the bolt.

Are you doing this to pull the heads? If you are, then you could just leave it in place on the head. Unbolt everything else, cam case, head bolts, and exhaust. Then lift off the pass head and intake toghether. Seperate them once it's apart. I've had to do excactly that before. The real trouble is if you break a bolt on BOTH ends of the intake.

I'm editing this cause I realized I was reffering to the Aux, OP was talking about the Secondary pull-off. My bad. GD is correct here.

The image should be rotated. But anyhow, the vaccum supply for both Choke diaphrahms should come form the Intake vac port coming straight up out of the intake, left side of of carb in the diagrahm and pass side, on engine. To find the port, just look straight down, behind the primary vacuum pulloff on the carb. It's jut to the left but basically right behind/under the carb. Nothing else comes from this port. If you are replaceing Vac lines. Make careful note of which ones are shown with "orifice" in the Vac diagrahms. Like the one that joins the main and aux diaphrams, it has a small pellet inside it with a tiny whole, so the aux doesn't get as much vac as the main. And the one just below the idle screw is the supply for the EGR and the Thermo vaccum valve. It goes off the carb to thge left, then bends 90 deg. and hooks into the bent metal tube cluster beside the Thermostat housing. Those stupid little tubes split the line, route it to the EGR, thermo valve, and other crap. If you have disconnected the Thermovac valve, you can plump that line straight to the EGR. If you have removed or plugged you're EGR you can cap that line entirely.

What about just for 2 wheels? Rears?

These older cars are not OBD II. So there is no strict standardiztion. It's possible for a CEL to come on in this case for conditions that wouldn't nessecarilly cause emmissions failure. Now, the tech may not know the differnce. But I don't think in an early non standardized system, that they could fail you for the light alone.

Check the codes. It may be simple fix. Pull the lower dash panel(under steering wheel) BOlted to the bottom of the column is the ECU. It has a tiny window with a light visible through it. Turn start the car and watch that light. If it blinks a eries of long and short beeps that is a code. Search here for more in depth process. If no codes come up while engine is running, then you can exctract codes form the past by using the white "read" connectors, and you can make the ECU diagnos itse;f by uing the green "test" coinnectors" Both connectors are under the hood, just above and beside the brake resevior.

Either core will work, the only difference is the shape of the bends won't fit into the little hold down tangs if you use the wrong one. But it really doesn't matter, the ends of the tubes end up going through the firewall in the same place, and those little tangs don't really do anything but hold a tube that can't go anywhere.

Your cars is an EA82 wagons IIRC Yes it will interchange fine. But, If you get an arm from a Sedan or Coupe(not EA81 Hatch) the arm will not have a bumper for the rubber "helpers"

Has anyone suggested that he read codes? Also thi is MPFI, buit is it turbo or non? Also make sure you're intake tube (rubber tube from Air filter box to Turbo or throttle body) is secured to the air cleaner and engine, and has no big cracks in it or loose hoses

+1 Power steering is the only system I'll use a "stop leak" product in. Actaully can be pretty effective. But I would use Transmission stop leak. Not the PS stuff, because our cars use ATF not conventional PS fluid.

As you can see by thi diagrahm, The seal is BEHIND the bearing. Whole pump has to be disassembled to replace the seal. New pumps are around $50, used ones should be no more than $20 at a J-yard. Best options unless you really want to rebuild yours.