
Gloyale
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Everything posted by Gloyale
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fuel pump cutout thingy location?
Gloyale replied to SakoTGrimes's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I'm just going by what the FSM calls it. And it certainly doesn't have logic. It is a timer circuit. Nothing but a simple IC. It can't "decide" anything. But at anyrate, whatever you call it, it controls the fuel pump. o it's worth looking into. If nothing else it is a good place to do some voltage tests to when and where you get power. Hope this diagrahm helps. Although it is for 86, and wire color may be different in 87 somewhat. -
TPS, IAC, or something else?
Gloyale replied to toadleyb's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
+1 for this It was my next though after the CTS But for sure make sure the CEL is working, clear codes, start over, after each repair or adjustment. -
Broken timing belt 15,000 miles
Gloyale replied to idosubaru's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I bought an 85 GL with around 130,000 on it. 1 owner, and the original belts. They almost disintegrated in my hand removing them, but they were the originals. Either way THE LOYALE should change those belts. And my vote is to run covers when you live in Wisconsin. Both myself and Milemaker(illinois) have had problems with snow packing in around the engine bay and f...ing with the belts. -
What to do with an EA71?
Gloyale replied to Gloyale's topic in Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
I'll keep all of you in mind if I start parting out. -
SUGGESTIONS??? On where to start looking?
Gloyale replied to RONAN's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I'm going to say you've got a bad check valve before the canister. When you accelerate, Vacuum actually drops once the rpms pic up. Without a Check valve, the vac in the canister is just bleeding off. take it off, and try blowing through it both ways. Should only work one way. Then don't forget to install it so that it can be "pulled" through by vaccum. I can offer one other cold weather Subaru trick that helped get me through Wisconsin winters. Open the glovebox. Remove all the crap. Now twist the box slighlty, and you will see that you can wiggle the stops out of little notches on each side, and get the box to open all the way. Now you are looking into the dash. On the far right, is the box that holds the blower fan and the intake flapper. You should be able to find a thin black plastic tube that carry Vacuum to the intake actautor. Disconnect that tube, and plug it. This way that intake door will stay closed when you select a function. Now all the air that you're heater heats will be pulled form the passenger floor area, instead of -5 degree air from outside. -
The major difference is between MPFI and SPFI/Carb. Not nessecarilly whether it was turbo or not. All turbo ea82s are MPFI, but not all MPFI are turbo (XTs and early GL-10s had MPFI non turbo) MPFI heads have dual intake ports, and use a completely different intake. Won't bolt up to a non MPFI. All other EA82 SPFI and Carbed used a single ort for intake, adn can swap intakes easily(carbed or SPFI) but again won't bolt up to the MPFI manifold
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20 Hour Road Trip w/ EA82
Gloyale replied to Optimator's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
But a different automatic. Electronically controlled 4spd AWD. 4EAT is a WAAAAAAAYYYYY better trans than the 3at. And 90-94 they had a manual shift mode, that holds the gear you select, 1-4. -
20 Hour Road Trip w/ EA82
Gloyale replied to Optimator's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I'd just pull the fans. Leave the radiator in place. Unless you want to have to refill you're whole cooling system on the side of the road. -
TPS, IAC, or something else?
Gloyale replied to toadleyb's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Several of those can be false codes. And others could be triggered by the effects of running crappy off bad data from a failed CTS. Did you test the resistance of the CTS? Resistance should be around 2-3k Ohms at 68 degreesF. Higher resistance if colder, up to 11k ohms resistance should drop as the engine warms up. Down to between 200-500 ohms hot. Basically anything other than Zero Ohms or Infinite, and change that correponds to temp, means it's good. If not replace it. I would ignore codes 32 thru 51 for now. They are not likely the problem. Only others that are troubleing are the TPS code and the Air Control Valve. But for now, Lets test the CTS, confirm it as good or get it replaced. Then clear the Codes(hook up both stes of connectors, start car, run it for 40 seconds, til the CEL blinks) and then see what still comes up in D check(just greens) Next test is the TPS though. -
fuel pump cutout thingy location?
Gloyale replied to SakoTGrimes's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Okay, start again. In you're first post, you say no gas is getting in there. That means that the pump is not running. Not a voltage regulator, control unit, or RUN or START issue, It's just not getting powered at all. Is this a feedback or non feedback carb? Feedback carb, Pump is controlled by ECU, apparently without a relay(basing that on 86 carbed FSM). Non-feedback has a rev sensor like EA81 that serves as the relay -
Is there a demand for bolt pattern adaptors?
Gloyale replied to RenaissanceMan's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
AHH.... but for rear drums, it wouldn't be possible for bolt to protrude "into" the drum to hold the adapter on. And actually, I don't know if there is enough clearance for that on Discs either. Gotta go look. Back to the thickness issue to cover the factory studs. -
What to do with an EA71?
Gloyale replied to Gloyale's topic in Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
Already got an EA82t with spun sleeves for that. It's all polished and ready for a glass top:grin: No seriously. the one engine is complete, clean, and looks way to nice to tear down for scrap. -
Broken timing belt 15,000 miles
Gloyale replied to idosubaru's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Car will die almost immediately if the driver belt breaks. Disty stops turning=no spark. no damage As far a timing belt with over 100k. It could break any time. I'd replace it before i driving it anywhere you don't want to walk home from. Replace all the seals (cam, crank, and probably all 3 oil pump seals) while you're in there. Do the water pump if you got the money. -
Hey, someone recently gave me a couple of ea71s, one that is supposedly a good runner, but it' been sitting for at least 4 years. What should I do with it? Generator? Chipper? Hovercraft?
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A two piece block design is WAAAY more stout than conventional main bearing caps. In conventional straight and V diesels, the force actually tryies to push the main caps away from the block. The main caps rely on bolt as well, and it all works as long as they are stout bolts. Now in a Boxer, where would the crank possibly go? It's sandwiched between two giant slabs of metal. More bolts and more solidly connected than any main caps. Diesel Boxer sounds like a marriage made in heaven.
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20 Hour Road Trip w/ EA82
Gloyale replied to Optimator's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Don't forget extra rad hoses, 5/8 in. heater core hoses, and a 2 foot length of 3/8 in. transmission cooler line(for the little coolant bypass hoses) plus clamps and extra coolant. Having a hose blow is no big deal if you got the stuff to fix it. If not you're SOL. -
NO....... not really. If you saw an "85" Ea81 wagon, it was either A: an 84 EA81 wagon B: an 85 EA82 wagon with a EA81 swapped into it C: A model spec. for sale in another country ( I think NZ got EA81 in the newer "EA82" bodies) Look at the tag riveted to the drivers door or door frame. It will tell you production date. Keep in mind that an "85" could be built a early as July 84 They're weren't any EA81 body wagons designated as "85" model year. Sometime the title to the vehichle can be wrong, like you say if an 84 get's sold in 85, but it is still an "84" model year vehichle.
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Okay, sorry, I thought you meant the front one. (subarus VSS labeling is not consistant thorough all years and changes) Hmm... It is so high up on the rear of the trans, I think it would be above the fluid level. Some ATF dripping out would be normal I suppose, as the transfer clutch drum is directly over it and is full of fluid. But if it really pours out of there, I think it may be conclusive that the transfer pressure pipe has come loose, and is filling the rear extension with ATF.
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Is there a demand for bolt pattern adaptors?
Gloyale replied to RenaissanceMan's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I'll grind my hubs for sure if I can get 5x100 lugs on there. Thinner is better. I would want threads to be the same a other subie studs. 12x 1.25?1.5? whichever is stock suby. -
fuel pump cutout thingy location?
Gloyale replied to SakoTGrimes's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I have never heard of a "kill switch" or disableing feature for hte fuel pump in ANY older Subaru. I don't even think the early legacies had that feature. It is never shown on any diagrahms. Where did this info come form? What type of vehicle specifically are we talking about?