Gloyale

All 4 of those relays up there are the same type. I'd say go to a Junkyard and grab all four relays from a car there. Then you have extras, and it will give you a change to dig around and find where the relay is located, before you have to you're car apart. Buying a new one would probably be spendy, for a simple relay. Alternately, you could use a generic $5 relay for anything and wire it in. The old relay has a diagrahm right on it's side so you could compare and adapt any relay.

The Left Side Headlight relay is bad. It provides the power for both the left headlight and the Running lights. Pull the lower dash panel, and reach up behind the dash to the left of the steering column. Mounted in a bracket bolted to the back of the dash, with 3 other relays, is the headlight relay. The left side one has a green connector. If it was just the dim left headlight, I would say just fuse #7 is blown. But since it is the Relay that actually provides the power to fuse #7, and Fuse #6(running lights) that means it is probably the relay.

Replace the fusible links, and check the condition of the large white wire from Fusible link block to Alternator and make sure it's not corroded or brittle

here you go

Cyl 1+2 are on terminals 49 and 50. White wires. Both in the bottom corner of the connector that has 3 rows(all the others have 2 rows) What I would do is disconnect both of those injectors, Then disconnect the ECU plug. Using a long test lead measure continuity end to end from term 49,50 the the ends of those wires at the injector. Make sure there is zero or very near zero resistance. If there is a break in the circuit this will tell you.

Check wiring at terminals 51 and 52 (both W/Lt.Blue wire). Those wires actually tie into one, and then split again before the main engine harness. the fact that it is both of the rear cylinders indicates it must be tied to the grounding action of the ECU through terminals 51 and 52 Read the codes, and go from there

Thanks for keeping an eye out. The Bay area has one of the highest concentrations of Subarus in the whole country, and no road salt. So it's not really too surprising to hear there are 7 in the yard. Now if you found a Yard here in Wisconsin with 7 soobs, I'd be like

Sounds like you need a new alternator. The Charge,Brake and Stop lamp lights coming on dim is a sure sign that you are not charging. Check to make sure the large wire that attaches to the post on the alternator is not corroded and that it has a good connector on it. But, if that is all OK then you have a bad alternator. Have you're battery charged and tested before you install a new Alt. You're old Alt has been overtaxing the Batt, and may have put it on it's last legs. Unless Batt charges and tests near 100%, I would suggest replacing it as well when you do the Alt.

He's right, it's supposed to come on when the "defrost" button is selected. It provide ciculation of the lubricant in the system, preventing drying of the seals. And also it helps dry moisture out of the air as well for defrosting.

This should maybe be off-topic or M+G but I'm hoping the mods will leave it here till my trip is done. I'm in the process of moving my family back out to Oregon. I will be leaving Tue. 8/21 for the first trip with a load. Driving my 89 GL Turbo wagon, towing a trailer with about 1500 lbs of stuff in it(all Subie parts). The trailer weighs a good 500 so that's 2000 lbs of trailer and at least 500 in the car. I just wanted to put a feeler out and see if any board members on the route would be willing to be an emergency, on the road contact, If I say needed to make a repair stop? Route is basically I-90/94, starting in Wisconsin, then to Minnesota, North Dakota,Montana,Idaho,Wash,Oregon. I don;t expect trouble and I have literally a spare every thing with me. (including engine and transmision) Also, If anyone along this route needs an AC condensor, full set, brown 86 GL-10 door cards, Grey GL (ea82) Seats, a Brown 86 GL-10 Steeringwheel or other (request) let me know, otherwise that stuff is all getting tossed. PM me or post here.

Hey, I'm Leaving Wisconsin for Oregon on Tuesday. There's a slight possibility that I might be coming through on I-80. I'm gonna have a full trailer of Subaru parts in haul. We'll see but If I come through Reno I'll drop by for sure.

How far did the small punch go down inside the pin. If it's just stuck a few millimeters, You could get the right size punch, and hammer the heck out of the pin from the other side until it comes out of the hole a bit. Grind off what comes out, and hopefully you can get enough of it ground off to release the small punch.

How old are you're brake rotors? Do you're brake pads have the proper tension clips on them? If you're pads don't have the clips, and the rotor has a lip and some corrosion around the edge, it van make the brake pads catch and clack around in their cage. Just a thought

I've got 2 intact crossover/up-pipe pieces. I'll be coming through Washington late next week. PM me if you're interested

If this is the same car you mention in the *white smoke, smells like coolant" thread, I think we may have something. You said in that thread that the Speedometer, tempature, and fuel gauges don't work. This is on the DigiDash? What I'm getting at is someone may have swapped dashes on you. Digi Temp gauges are always flaky. But the Fuel gauge not working could be due to not swapping senders when they swapped dashes. Also perhaps they couldn't get the Speedometer cable in. Or maybe they just butchered wiring putting it it. Does the tag on back say GL or GL-10? Does it have the trip computer in it and does it work? somewhere somethings been swapped. When you say "adjustable suspension", are you talking about the Air suspension package? Does the Air suspension work? Height button on the dash? All 85 and 86 GL's had adjustable height suspension, but the standard type was mechnical, you actually had to uses wrenches to adjust the struts. IIRC only GL-10s and RX had air suspension, which simply required pressing a button to select height. Edit: 85 FSM shows only a Sedan, 4WD TURBO model(not GL, GL-10, or RX?) as being the only one in 85 with air suspension. Tha's just what the book says, could be different though. Still I think somewhere, something has been swapped on this car

It's a dampner(doesn't regulate presure, but absorbs surges) If need be I think you can run without it. There are dampeners under the hood in the lines near the fuel inlet, so you will still have them in the system.

All you're decoded info matches what I find in the 85 FSM. That VIN is for a Automatic, wagon with no height adjustment. Do all the VINS on the car match?

Yes it's very easy actually. It just drops out after you unbolt the brackets. the hardest part is reconnecting the hoses at/near the column/gear. You'll want to get new O-rings for those connections.

Look near the passenger side rear wheel. Fuel pump is mounted to a bracket just infront of the rear wheel. May be the tubes leading to and from the tank are leaking.

Glad to hear you got it working. Blue connector is listed as the Rear defrost relay. The color is not listed for the blower relay, but I'm assuming that is the white connector.

The 87 intake has a different TPS, used with a different type of ECU and MAF. It would be here in the US anyway. As well, 87 had a solenoid to control boost, you're 86 probably doesn't have this solenoid. Thirdly the Distributor are different as well. I'm assuming he must have swapped that at least already though cause IDT it would even run otherwise. The 86 ignition system uses a 2 prong Knock sensor, which needs swapped as well. So you will need to: Plumb a tube directly from the turbo outlet to the wastgate. Just run about a 6 inch hose from the nipple on the outlet to the wastgate. Swap over the 86 intake. Or swap these componets from one to the other. The harness, the TPS, the thermovacuum valve and re-route the vacuum according to the 86 chart. Make sure the 86 disty and knock sensor 2 prong are installed

With time and money you could rebuild the engine. You may need to get new heads or have those ones fixed. It sounds like a a blown headgasket, and often that will cause/contribute to the heads cracking in the exhaust ports, espescially on turbos. If you don't want to get involved with a serious undertaking though, I'd say look for something else. If, however you want to learn about cars, this is a perfect starting point. Subaru's are a good first car for learning, if for no other reason than this board. Fantastic resource. And so much more friendly, and informative a board than most other makes with boards on the web.

NEver ever ever EVER!!!! drive a car (espescially a turbo) without a working tempature gauge. If it had a gauge, you would have seen it getting hot (probably on the test drive before you bought it) You could have shut her down before overheating. But once it gets hot enough to stop running you're SOL, and probably have cracked the heads into the exhaust. Much as I love Turbos, I;m guessing you're in over you're head here. If you can get you're money back, do it.

By chance has the *Subaru FI* plate been taken off off you're intake boot? If so that's you're problem. That emblem helps stiffen the tube. Just get a replacement intake tube that is intact. Or press and glue back in the old emblem if you still have it.

To be inside the wheel, the grease is almost certainly coming from the bearings. Probably a bad outer seal. Easy to replace, just unbolt teh caliper and bracket, unbolt the big nut in the center and slide the hub/disc off. Seal is right there. This next step is something I do to regrease the bearings. This applies to the OE style that have open races and you can see the balls(Some replacement bearings are sealed, so you can't grease them, If you have those, skip next step). Before you pull the old seal out, pack some grease behind the lip of the seal on the bearing. Now press the hub back on, remove it, and repeat. You will eventually see grease oozing out from the back side of the knuckle at the inner seal. Now you've just repacked you're wheel bearings with fresh grease. Pull that old seal and install the new then reassemble.