Gloyale

None of this applies. AUTOMATIC it doesn't have a solenoid/lever/gear activated 4wd. All 4wd transfer is done within the 3spd trans via a hydraulic clutch pack. Excactly the same concept as the full time units except pressure is only supplied to the clutch for 4wd operation and only at full pressure(AWD auto units regulate variable pressure to the clutch) Unless the clutch is seized inside the trans(unlikely) then it is not in 4wd because the 4wd only operates when supplied with pressure from the trans pump.(engine must be running) I don't think the trans is any part of you're starting issue, if that's what you're having. What's the problem again?

Neither is really that expensive. Generally as far as suppiers go I'd bet on Hitachi as being the higher end company(used by Honda and Subaru) as compared to Denso(used on Mazda, Toyota, and everything else japanese). I personally think the Hitachi distributors are better. Higher quality and you can service the Mechanical advance portion.

To seal the new window in use Butyl-Acetate window sealant. It is the correct stuff for adhesive bonding windows into car frames. It comes in tubes(messy) or as a rolled rope of the rubbery putty. The roll is the way to go. Clean the seal lip of the frame, lay the rope into place on the lip. then press the window into place. To remove the old glass. Get the braided wire tool for window removal. You will almost surely need a friend to help. You pokie a hole through the seal, feed the wire through, then you and you're friend got to town like lumberjacks alternating pulling the wire back and forth to saw thought the seal around the frame. Careful, if the wire binds it can start to cut into the glass.

You can reuse the window trim/seal(it's not really the seal, the glass is sealed with adhesive) The trim just fills the gap around the edge. Peel it out carefully, make sure you get the vertical edge that is embedded, not just tearing it off. Try to lift it out flat, rather than curving it back while you peel it out. If you curve it, it will distort and hold that curve(opposite to the windsheilds curve) then you will not be able to get it back in. But if you get it out straight, you can reinstall it with a bead of silicon in the groove and then press it back in. I actually prefer Buytl-Acetate rubber sealant to silicon. But it is more expensive and really messy if you goop it up.

Bob, I'm glad that manifold is working good for ya. Still got the same carb on it? Anyway, I'm gonna bet that if you didn't replace those intake gasket that is where you're leak is. Like GD said, I've also never seen any non turbo heads crack in the exhaust port. Perhaps the shop you took it to was not understanding that the *BTV* cracks are not what we mean. Technically those cracks are in both the intake and exhaust port. But there is only a wall of solid metal between the valves at that area. The worst it causes is a slight amount of vacuum leakage from intake to exhaust or vice versa. There is a service bulletin that they are fine and everyone ignores them. Here is a picture of where the bad cracks happen. The real *exhaust port* cracks. You have to look into the exhaust port on the bottom of the head, where the exhaust pipe bolts on. Look for cracks at either end of the *wall* that seperates the 2 halfs of the chamber. If there are cracks they are ussually right at the point where that wall meets the edge of the port.

Well anything with a single turbo anyhow. To use the Twin turbo engine you'd have to relocate the second turbo, there's no room in left hand drive car.

I see what you're saying. Both are pressure sensors. My point was just that it's not used to sense Manifold pressure, just atmosphereic(for alltitude adjustment) And at any rate it doesn't have anything to do with the transmission on an 89. The only signal from the engine that the TCU needs is from the TPS.

MAP= Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor. There is a device inside the ECU that monitors altitude (by atmospheric pressure) but it is not a MAP like they are used in GM, Dodge, other applications. It is just to give the ECU an ialtitude reading and does not have anything to do with the TCU for the 4EAT(not in 89 anyhow, perhaps in later 95+ versions, perhaps) FPCU, yeah I figured that out soon after I logged off last night.

I've spent some time on a nissan board lately, getting info about my GFs Altima. Man is it a different world over there. Here, everyone wants to actually help you. Over there they want to tell you why you're a dumb rump roast unless you have headers and NOS. Subaru are a part of my childhood and my lfe today. And the people that are on this board are a family for sure.

Are you sure that the intake was not leaking where it attaches to the heads? It's not very common for non-turbos to have the exhaust cracks. but anything is possible. Just because a *shop* says they are bad, don't nessecarily believe them. Many shops are unfamiliar with these engines. You could try SSK (subaru, suzuki, Kia) in rancho cordova. They have tons of subies and are pretty fair. At least Tony there was.

SPFI heads from any year will work. Anything but MPFI heads(like from a turbo or an XT) If the cracks are between the valves, they are fine. It's the ones in the exhaust ports you have to worry about.

It was the the park basically right under the bridge that brings you in to town from the west. It was 100 degrees and there where so many mosquitos I though we were going to get sucked dry before day break. Didn't have to pay.

Unless you have a 2wd turbo with 3spd automatic. those have the larger 95-AC joint, but with 23 splines. (same as SPFI)

4eat only needs a TPS signal. Nothing else form engine, doesn't *talk* to ECU. No MAP signal( no EA82's even have a MAP, they have MAF's) I'll bet you could mount a TPS on the carb throttle shaft. Carb FPCU? are you talking for *feedback system*? Cause 4wd non-Cali model carbed don't have an ECU at all. High pressure pump would be too high pressure. easy to swap a carb on though. ABCUS, is this car a 2wd or 4wd. If it's 2wd, it has a 3AT, and the swap would be pretty simple. If it is 4wd, it has a 4EAT and would require the TPS to work correctly (although it would still drive without it) either way the Fuel pump is an issue. You could get any cheap aftermarket electric pump. Daeron, no the heads are not the same at all. In fact that's the big physical difference between Turbo(MPFI) and the others(Carb, SPFI) other than the pistons. MPFI have dual intake ports, all others are single. I agree this would be a bit of a waste of a turbo car

85 parts catalog shows the single roller bearing(?) Subaru part# 6210 14110 That's the best I can do cause I only have a parts catalog for 85. I'm sure it was superceded by another part number later.

Oops, FWD. it's close to there, but actually further back, in the side of the extension that protrudes out the back. The cone looking piece that points upward slightly. It's the furthest rearward thing on the trans with wires. same colors. Switch is closed (continuity between terminals) when in neutral, and open in all other positions.

It's not visible from top, not easily anyhow. It is located on the rear, drivers side of the trans. There are 2 switches back there. One is the backup light, one is the neutral switch. The neutral switch is higher up and further towards the back, right under and a bit behind a little cylindrical protrusion that's about 2 inches in diameter(that's the reverve lockout assembly) Wires are Yellow/blue and Black/red Black/red wire is ground. Yellow blue wire is signal wire, connected to pin 4 of the ECU.

Fill it up a bit more, and go for a drive on some bumpy roads. It'll loosen up after a little bit. gasoline is an excellent solvent. I had this same problem in a Geo Metro once. I was driving from Oregon to Wisconsin, and the fuel pump in the Geo gave out and finnally died in Bismarck.(we had to sleep in the park by the river) Found a really nice J-yard (down by the tracks, kinda close to the rock n roll mcdonalds). They sold us a whole tank assembly(pump in tank) and let us change it out in there parking lot. Hit the road and the needle was stuck at *E* for about 20 miles then started working. I've always wanted to go back to that yard and thank them. They where really nice and gave us a good deal in a pinch.

I've got a couple of EA82T coils here. I'll ship one to you if you want. Donation to keep the X-Bee-6 running.

Coolest part of the Trip puter is the outside temp gauge. I am thinking of adding that to my car. Just having the temp display and leaving the button(controls) box out of the whole deal. I don't need the alarm, range, avg. speed etc. and my stereo has a much more reliable clock.

I see the y pipe and the center pipe on ebay all the time.

ECU's are different for sure. And are you talking keeping the SPFI? 1 Fuel injector to try to supply enough fuel? IDK if that will work well.

To use the factory stuff to convert you'd need: Engine crossmember(has notch to clear crossover/uppipe) Entire EA82 turbo motor and turbo(with crossover/uppipe) Turbo ECU and harness Turbo downpipe Possibly a higher pressure fuel pump (not sure if the SPFI one would pump enough pressure) Good news is I have the crossmember sitting in my garage down here in K-town if you want it. Cheap cheap:grin: I've got a harness and ECU as well. Whole JDM engines can be had for about 400-500 dollars. Or you could try to find one in a J-yard

You're 89 may not have an inner and outer tappered bearing. It may have the large single roller bearing. I'm not sure when they switched. But You may just have to tear into it to find out. 89 FSM shows the 2 tappered bearing setup, but I've taken apart an 88 DL that had the single roller bearing.

The wiring arrangment is totally different. I really don't think it will work. The analog system measures resistance to ground, The digidah sytstem is not connected to ground at all(other than the dash being grounded, but not the actual fuel sender circuit) I've never tried it, but it seems a recipe for a short cicuit, The trip computer display in a GL is where the clock is in the center of the dash.